I used a small cutoff wheel in a hand held Dremmel. Some sparks but I used a damp rag. I also used a magnet to collect any metal particles.

 

did you cut it off while still in the car or did you take it out to do that?

It looks like it would be pretty easy to remove the 3 allen screws that appear to hold the distributor base on- would that be a good idea?

then you could have it out of the car- easier to get to and no mess to clean up in the vee.

 

Hi John

Just the thought of doing that is making me nervous as well, it could be all too easy to mess the distributor up when cutting the shaft.

If it doesn't make much difference, then I think I would much rather leave the shaft alone.

And in any event, I would want a new gasket and a new rotor standing by before I started the job.

There seem to be very few posts about the distributor catching fire, so as I haven't got any Cats, I'm inclined to leave well alone.

 

so- for better or worse I decided to go for it and hopefully I did it right.

I used a hack saw with a fine metal blade. I fear power tools and thought I would have a lot better control with a hand tool.

Whatever metal that nub was is pretty soft because it only took me a few minutes to cut it off.

Pictures included- and someone please tell me if this is all wrong so I can price a whole new part!

erik

 

Is the shaft Aluminum?

 

last part with pictures- this is the rotor with the silicone filling the asterisk area on the underside.

I ordered the gasket (and nice labeled HT lines too) from a vendor recommended on this site-

New and Used Jaguar Parts for XJ6, XJS, XJ8, XK8, S-TYPE and X-TYPE

ordered on the Nov 28, received it on Dec 1.

And again- please let me know if this is incorrect/ a train wreck waiting to happen/ a guaranteed fireball obituary coming and I will try to delete all of my posts.

 

I'm envious. Looks like you have doen a fine job!!

 

I was very Tempted to cut the Spindle off but I wouldn't trust that Rotor being held in place afterwards by just a couple of Screws, what good is that Silicone Sealant now, as it no longer has a shaft inside it.

Anyone else think the same?

 

if I ever get the rest of the car to work I will definitely let you know if I ever have trouble with the rotor unseating.

 

I know it isn't the same car, but the only time my current TR6 let me down, was when it burned through the rotor, and started grounding to the center shaft. Cheap rotor button. I think the silicone is just added insurance, that the fire NEVER comes through the rotor button.

 

You could also try this. Possibly spray the entire rotor while covering the end points? This has 4 times the dielectric properties than the GE sealant. It will not get through this.

Aervoe-Pacific 401 Insulating Epoxy Coating; 16 oz, Aerosol Spray Can, Red - Crescent Electric Supply Company

 

If I was going to do this, I think that I would much prefer to cut the Shaft half way down.

Then you would have something apart from the Screws holding the Rotor.

Not sure about this epoxy stuff, it might unbalance the Rotor in some way.

 

So everyone knows, Im just suggesting it, not saying it is a good idea.

I was thinking the same about cutting it halfway instead of all the way. Another part of me however, thinks it would be absolutely fine with just the screws and better to cut it all the way down. Would you even need sealant if you cut it all the way? Would it jump that far?

 

where do people get there dizzy gaskets from? (marelli dizzy)