I'm planning to start this project soon, but have some questions before I begin - planning to start with the front. I don't know for sure but think it's all original parts. My thinking is after 23 years and 110,000 miles it's probably worthwhile to replace all the wearable parts even if they don't seem completely worn out. So here are my questions:

For my use I think oem style suspension and polyurethane stteering bushings - based on my reading here - any thoughts?

Does anyone offer a kit for these parts? I've found kits with the poly bushings but not oem style. Not really necessary but would make it easier for me to not omit or mess up ordering parts.

I may not be able to do the whole project in one shot - in what order do you think I should procede, either to do what's most important first or to make the whole process more efficient?

Possibly related to the last question, I've read that it can be hard to get the alignment done correctly on these cars. What can I do to minimize that problem so I can still use the car while this is only partly done? Or tips on getting the alignment done when it is finished.

Is there anything else I should consider doing, "since I'm in there already"?

Thanks in advance for your info and opinions!

 

FCP euro offers a full set of replacements in a kit.
I think SNG barratt does too

If you do each side at a time your alignment will be kooky but its a better idea IMO that trying to replace some of the parts on each side at the same time.

the fact is you have to dig in to replace the deepest part and you remove all the other parts in the process. You may as well do all of them on the way back out.
You can replace the front cradle bush and the anti-roll links seperately, long with tie rod ends.
but if you are doing the ball joints you may as well do all those bushings on the way back out

 

This might not be of any help, but I changed all the bushes on mine about 8 months ago, That was upper and lower control arms and steering rack, you will have to remove the stering rack to replace the lower control arm bushes so you do them while your there.
I realise that there is a discussion that says genuine is better than the newer neoprene type bushing, I used neoprene all round, car to me handles 200% better than it ever did, as far as ride goes its still miles in front of my truck that is my DD. Personally I would reconsider the neoprene bushings, but again its your choice, I just don't not want to do this job again, so I opted for the best.
Good luck

 

It is a matter of personal preference and what you favour more, handling or ride? Going with rubber everywhere softens the ride but also makes the handling less responsive. Vice versa for poly parts.

You could find a happy medium by using poly steering bushes. These will definitely improve steering feel and response without transmitting much more harshness.

Also consider replacing the little rubber bushes in the vertical links of the anti roll bar with poly. This will also sharpen handling and if you leave the mounting bushes as rubber, will hardly effect ride comfort at all.

For the rest of the components I would use the factory rubber as those parts are engineered to provide the ride characteristics that most people love in an XJ-S.

While changing the bushes, I would also change the upper and lower balljoints and the track rod ends.

Also if you are in the mood, changing the subframe vee mounts might be worthwhile, possibly the front subframe bushes too. Heck while your at it, check out the engine mounts too

Then again if you subscribe to the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" theory, don't worry and just enjoy your car until things actually wear out

 

Hi Katoh, thanks for your reply - I'm glad to hear how others have done this, and their results. I'm not familiar with neoprene bushings, are they like polyurethane or something different? All my opinions are based on what I've read here and elsewhere, not actual experience, so it's great to get more first hand information.

Here's what I have: squeeks, clunks and sort of loose handling. I haven't done a detailed inspection yet but have pretty good records from the previous owners and I don't think any suspension work has been done except possibly shocks, therefor think its a good idea to replace all the wearable parts (1991, car has 110000miles).

What I'd like: nice ride quality and good handling. But I don't want to trade ride quality for even better than good handling.

What I've heard: poly bushings = tighter handling but harsher ride, squeaks? and maybe in some positions shorter service life - except the steering rack where they don't affect ride quality and work better than oem style.

I would like to know more about the neoprene bushings if they are something different than poly or oem style.

Thanks again, Eric

 

Hi Allan, what you are suggesting is about what I was thinking too, (except for the roll bar links, I hadn't considered changing just those to poly). I'm planning to replace the ball joints. I guess track rod ends = tie rods? My plan is to not replace them unless I find some looseness. Unless replacing them requires going though a bunch of other stuff, then I might just do them while it's apart. I'll certainly check out the other mounts and bushings you suggested, and renew as necessary. Also planning to check out and replace if necessarey the transmission mount.

Thanks, Eric

 

Hi Eric
I don't think that there is much difference between Neoprene and Poly, I believe that they are basically the same sort of thing, if I can be that general, we know that they are not. The people that I bought mine off just had neoprene bush's on the pack but more than likely they were just poly, I had to buy them there and then to get the registration pass (long Story).
From what you have said in your posts rubber bush's are more than likely the way to go for you, but I really recommend on the steering rack you go to poly. You will not notice a difference in ride but steering will be much improved, they are a much better thing than the original rubber. Mine where actually replaced, but I replaced them again, when you hear about the horrors some have removing the original ones you will bless the poly's.
I found mine had to be changed when I bought the car and to get the registration check on it, one of the lower bush's was total disintegrated, when I removed the others they were looking mighty tired also, now this is a car with only 130K on it, at least the previous owner changed the ball joints just prior to my purchase. I personally like the feel of the road, I don't find it too harsh at all and when I get the chance I will also beef up the suspension to make the car a bit stiffer again, but I'm still very happy with what I have done this far.

 

Hi Katoh, that's basically what I was thinking too regarding the steering, from what I've read the oem design is somewhat flawed and as you say poly shouldn't affect the ride. I am glad to hear someone with actual experience weigh in on my guesswork.

Thanks, Eric

 

Hi all -

I'm finally getting this project going - hope to finish it up withing a few weeks. All the parts that I'm planning to replace are at hand - all the bushings, ball joints, subframe mounts, and rack mounts. The tie rod / track rod ends seem fully tight and undamaged so I'm planning to leave them, also the engine mounts visually appear fine so not planning to change them either.

I did come up with one new question regarding the subframe mounts - my book (Jaguar service manual) says to remove the engine mount nuts, but says nothing about supporting the engine while lowering the subframe. So my questions - does the engine need supporting or are the nuts just removed to allow some "flexibility" as everything is lowered? It doesn't seem like everything needs to be lowered that far to change the mounts, but I don't know if there is enough clearance and flex to allow dropping it all together.

If the engine needs to be suspended, what's the best way to do it (I don't have a hoist available, don't really want to buy one if it's not necessary)? If not, do I even need to loosen those engine mounts?

I'd certainly appreciate any other advice or tips, and I'm sure I'll come up with some more questions as I go.

Thanks, Eric

(By the way its a 1991 convertible US LHD model, got to add that to my signature).

 

There is an engine support that uses the fender rails for support and has a cross member with hooks that go into engine eye clamps. I've seen homemade versions posted on this board using wood for the fender rail supports and a steel rod for the cross member. Search for Bernie Embdens web site and you'll find one there as well

I believe Lnr posted a harbor freight product that works very well on the S1-3 forum.

 

Thanks - I also remember seeing those supports now that you mention it - was hoping that might not be necessary as getting it all together is sure to delay everything that follows - it would be much easier to just drop the whole works enough to change the mounts, but I sure don't want to screw anything else up in the process.

And that brings another new question to mind: what other special tools might be needed that I didn't think of for this project?

 

Eaa,

I assume you know that you have to use the purpose-built tool to remove the springs. Don't even think about using side-mount spring compressors. There are sadly some very unfortunate tales of people who tried to skimp and not use the right tool.

While it's all apart take a really critical look at the hidden bottom of the spring pan, and be prepared for some remedial welding.

Good luck

Paul

 

Thanks Paul,

I don't have the factory spring tool, but I did see one someone else made to accomplish the same task - to me it seemed stouter than the factory piece (hard to tell for sure though, I've only seen drawings of the factory tool). My plan is to use the long screw from my large puller for the through-the-center piece, fine thread and should be plenty strong, and have a lathe and mill to make the top and bottom adapters. I would welcome any thoughts on that plan, seems safe and not too difficult to me but I'm open to any other opinions. I don't want to damage the car, or myself. Also have no clue where to get that factory tool, if it's even still available, or the price for it.

The spring pads look fine from the outside, it's easy to see how they could rust under the spring though, being tub shaped they would hold water. I will be sure to check them out thoroughly.

Thanks, Eric

 

Eric,

Do be careful if you make your own. There is a huge amount of energy in that front spring. A few people have made their own but there a few critical elements. Use at least 3/4 inch hardened studding, make sure you fabricate adapter plates that can facilitate the varying correct angle and perhaps use acouple of replacement longer studs in the lower arms for some contingency. I've seen those springs strip out the threads in home-made tools, so please be careful!

In the UK, many owners hire the tool (JD6H) from the JEC. You can sometimes see them for sale or hire in the US as well.

Good luck

Paul

 

You are right on here. I have poly in the upper front wishbone and these have 10k km and will need to be replaced due to excessive wear. The OEM rubber I removed were in ok condition, not too badly worn after 250k km. I will be installing rubber in the upper wishbone soon. It's not the PU bush that wears it's the tube.

I would definitely go PU in the rack, swaybar and even the front subframe mounts, but I would use OEM rubber in the wishbone.

To remove the spring pans the easiest way is to use high tensile threaded rod and remove the spring pan bolts one at a time, insert the threaded rod and tighten up the nut on the rod against the spring pan. Once you have all the bolts replaced with the rods undo each nut a bit at a time to lower the spring pan. Be careful that the rod DOES NOT TURN. This way also lines the spring pan back up when you re-install it so replacing the bolts is easy.

 

While I had my spring pans out I sandblasted them and painted them with POR15, this stuff is brilliant and will prevent rust. In fact I painted the whole subframe in POR15.

With the work you are going to do it would be quicker to remove the front subframe from the car rebuild it then put it back. Believe me it will make replacing the lower wishbone bushes a whole lot easier.

 

Subframe mounts can be changed without engine support. Car on stands and trolley jack under subframe. Lower only enough to slide old out and new in.
However as said earlier with the extent of the work you plan it would not take much more to drop the suspension subassebly entirely.

 

Hi Paul,

thanks for your concern, I certainly will proceed with caution, and "over-do it" when it comes to strength of materials. I think the screw from my puller should be plenty strong, already intended to be used under a lot of tension. I don't think it should be too tough to make the end adapters strong enough, with what I have in mind it might be hard to make them not strong enough.

I did look around on the web and the factory tool doesn't seem readily available around here. I'm not opposed to using that tool, but also not willing to mortgage the farm to obtain it, if I can do it safely without.

Thanks, Eric

 

Baxtor, can you replace the subframe rear mounts too, engine unsupported? You have to drop the subframe a bit to get to the front fixing nuts What holds the engine in place?


Eaa, this is what you need to support the engine, front or rear eyes can be used to support it:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-ES50.../dp/B000RA2YI4
Then there are two smallish nuts (9/16 from memory) that hold the engine mount each side to the subframe. They are hard to get at, but they must be undone to drop the subframe. A short ratchet spanner is just the job to undo this. The nut I refer to goes on top of part no. 9 in the diagram:

Once you have gone to all the trouble of getting it all apart and the suspension and subframe off, I would do everything, what takes the time is getting it all off and apart. Putting on the new bits and reassembly is much quicker. FWIW, I strongly advise useing OEM grade wishbone bushes, top and bottom, ditto balljoints. I have had only very bad experiences with anything else, whatever the vendors claim.
Steering bushes: FYI poly are fine, but the absolute best are JaguarSport ones. And while you have everything off, check the stub axles for bearing race wear. Now is the time to replace the stubs if they are at all worn.
Good luck
Greg

 

I have done it in the past by loosening the front mount through bolts and then allowing the cross member to pivot down at the rear taking motor with it. You only need to lower it enough to clear the stud in the rear mount (about 20mm).
That was to replace faulty rear mount only, if doing any amount of work on the assembly it makes more sense to drop the whole thing.