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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 08:19 AM
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Default Plastic restoration

Hi all, I am pottering along giving the engine/bay on my 1997 x300 a good cleaning and am having a problem bringing the black plastic covers on the inside of either wing/fender back to original black, including the spare fuse and toolkit cover. I have cleaned and degreased them and no matter what I use and how often I wash them down in clean water, they keep drying out "cloudy". I am considering respraying them in a satin black, but would prefer not to go down that route. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 06:03 AM
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Vinyl Trim Renovation
Faded vinyl and rubber has to be the most difficult to restore; they resist most restoration attempts as most products either wash away or fade. Vinyl moulding on modern cars and SUVs that present the ultimate challenge, re-dying can be both time consuming and expensive.

To renovate and to accomplish long lasting renovation repairs on ultra violet (UV-B) faded, scuffed, or scratched black exterior trim, moulding, mirror covers, door handles, etc. without replacement or repainting This system is long lasting and can be applied without the use of specialized tools, these products are not dressings that will wash off after a short period but rather is an actual dye that can last from 6 - 12 months.

Vinyl is only semi- porous, since it cannot readily absorb a dressing or protection; the products remain vulnerable to the elements. Water- based polymer products however, form a molecular bond and provide a longer lasting matte finish, similar to the OEM. Solvent-based dressings have more shine; they will permeate the surface due to its solvent content, but can be removed with detergents and pressure washers. Vinyl and rubber restoration products contain dyes that can stain the paint surface, so they should be removed before they are allowed to dry.

Trim-A-Shield - a water-based acrylic polymer formula that forms a molecular bond to vinyl and textured plastic, when dry, it forms a tough, resilient coating that remains flexible. When it cross-links (polymerizes) it forms a very dense, smooth surface that is air tight and water proof.

It also resists common environmental hazards such as UV damage, dirt, grease and oil, the space between the surface and the coating is eliminated. Trim-A-Shield kit; contains GR-40 Trim Cleaner and Trim Dye (black or clear) – TOTL
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 12:10 PM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by sogood
Hi all, I am pottering along giving the engine/bay on my 1997 x300 a good cleaning and am having a problem bringing the black plastic covers on the inside of either wing/fender back to original black, including the spare fuse and toolkit cover. I have cleaned and degreased them and no matter what I use and how often I wash them down in clean water, they keep drying out "cloudy". I am considering respraying them in a satin black, but would prefer not to go down that route. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance.
sogood,

Here is the states I have recently come across a product designed specifically for this type of application. The product is called "BLACK WOW", I recently met the formulator and creator of this product and got a chance to try it out. Before deciding to paint your plastic covers....They have a dist in the UK......check this out and give it a try!!!
 
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 03:03 PM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by TOGWT
Vinyl Trim Renovation
Faded vinyl and rubber has to be the most difficult to restore; they resist most restoration attempts as most products either wash away or fade. Vinyl moulding on modern cars and SUVs that present the ultimate challenge, re-dying can be both time consuming and expensive.

To renovate and to accomplish long lasting renovation repairs on ultra violet (UV-B) faded, scuffed, or scratched black exterior trim, moulding, mirror covers, door handles, etc. without replacement or repainting This system is long lasting and can be applied without the use of specialized tools, these products are not dressings that will wash off after a short period but rather is an actual dye that can last from 6 - 12 months.

Vinyl is only semi- porous, since it cannot readily absorb a dressing or protection; the products remain vulnerable to the elements. Water- based polymer products however, form a molecular bond and provide a longer lasting matte finish, similar to the OEM. Solvent-based dressings have more shine; they will permeate the surface due to its solvent content, but can be removed with detergents and pressure washers. Vinyl and rubber restoration products contain dyes that can stain the paint surface, so they should be removed before they are allowed to dry.

Trim-A-Shield - a water-based acrylic polymer formula that forms a molecular bond to vinyl and textured plastic, when dry, it forms a tough, resilient coating that remains flexible. When it cross-links (polymerizes) it forms a very dense, smooth surface that is air tight and water proof.

It also resists common environmental hazards such as UV damage, dirt, grease and oil, the space between the surface and the coating is eliminated. Trim-A-Shield kit; contains GR-40 Trim Cleaner and Trim Dye (black or clear) – TOTL
Can you provide a link or Web Site for the 'Trim-A-Shield' Product Line? I googled it and did not get a search result for the Product.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by sogood
Hi all, I am pottering along giving the engine/bay on my 1997 x300 a good cleaning and am having a problem bringing the black plastic covers on the inside of either wing/fender back to original black, including the spare fuse and toolkit cover. I have cleaned and degreased them and no matter what I use and how often I wash them down in clean water, they keep drying out "cloudy". I am considering respraying them in a satin black, but would prefer not to go down that route. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance.
a really good way to bring back the original colour of plastics is to waft a hot air gun gently over them. restores the colour as if by magic. done the boot/ trunk finishing plate that goes over the inner boot/ trunk sill latch area, mine was discoloured and scuffed. it now looks loads better, not as new but 99%. works on bumpers, mirror housings, etc as long as they are not painted.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by andrew lowe
a really good way to bring back the original colour of plastics is to waft a hot air gun gently over them. restores the colour as if by magic. done the boot/ trunk finishing plate that goes over the inner boot/ trunk sill latch area, mine was discoloured and scuffed. it now looks loads better, not as new but 99%. works on bumpers, mirror housings, etc as long as they are not painted.
It seems as if the heating migrates some volatiles from inside the part to the surfaces thus restoring some specular reflection. It is the loss of specular reflection that makes parts look dull.

ATF wiped and buffed on a part can do wonders to promote specular reflection.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 03:53 AM
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Originally Posted by plums
It seems as if the heating migrates some volatiles from inside the part to the surfaces thus restoring some specular reflection. It is the loss of specular reflection that makes parts look dull.

ATF wiped and buffed on a part can do wonders to promote specular reflection.
There could be a fine line between 'specular' and 'spectacular' when waving a hot air gun around expensive plastic.

I'm fascinated to know what prompted Andrew to come up with this technique. It wouldn't have been my first thought for a restoration process!

Graham
 
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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 09:46 AM
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It may have been a logical extension from a past post by someone whose plastics engineer father taught him to boil old brittle plastic parts in water. They came out like new. This would be "structural" parts like those found in the engine bay.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by GGG
There could be a fine line between 'specular' and 'spectacular' when waving a hot air gun around expensive plastic.

I'm fascinated to know what prompted Andrew to come up with this technique. It wouldn't have been my first thought for a restoration process!

Graham
i discovered the hot air gun process by accident, i was stripping the paint off the garage door frame and noticed the colour coming back to the faded black plastic downpipe. so a quick waft up and down the pipe with some warm air and back to black. looks better than paint and quicker too! added bonus was brownie points from the manageing director [ domestic ] and that can ever be a bad thing.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 06:58 PM
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Hope the MD also realised that the cost of paint was also saved.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 06:28 PM
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+1 on the Black Wow from me.....great product.

Halfords have something similar.
My daughter had an old Vauxhall Corsa some time ago and the prevously black plastic bumpers were now grey with age.
A little application of this stuff and BAM, they're like new

 
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