Hi

Thanks for letting me join. I have always wanted a Jaguar. It needed to be good value. I went for an S-type 2.7lt V6 Deisel. It's 56K miles 05 plate. I bought it from a trader in Axminster. Fresh MOT, new boots all round, seviced and they gave me 50 quid off so I could put some fuel in it. I got it for £2435. Amazed at the fuel consumption. I made it all the way from Axminster, Devon back to Oxford on around 27 quid of deisel.

 

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If you own one of these 2.7L or 3.0L TTD V6 engined Jaguars (S-Type, XJ, XF) . . .
(or a similar single turbo in LR Disco, Ford, Citroen, Peugeot etc),
. . . suggest your urgent review of the following threads . . .

V6 TTD Massive Coolant Loss (Part 1)

V6 TTD Massive Coolant Loss (Part 2 - Update)

Total coolant loss could prove catastrophic for your engine, especially at high speed, but it is preventable with the solutions presented here. They are low cost, suited to DIY, and have proved reliable and enduring over many years and on a range of vehicles that use this excellent powertrain.

Cheers and best wishes,

 

all manufacturers appear to have their problems. JAG just appears to have more of them. Ford, Chevrolet, Toyota, are all having catastrophic engine failures.
I purchased my F-Pace diesel for the Beautiful styling, practical and spacious interior, hauling a heavy trailer when needed, and the 40 miles per gallon fuel economy of the diesel engine.
I got everything I wanted in this vehicle, except maybe reliability. I preferred this over a big V8 roaring down the road, but that's just me.

 

After going thru history of the vehicles where the coolant loss have been happened: DO NOT purchase cheap replacement plastic part for water outlet. You get what you are paying for.
It seems like the factory originals, even they are plastic, will last without any issues the age of the vehicle, but all 2.7L or 3.0L diesel engines i have seen and heard having an coolant issues, have had timing belt done recently and same time the water outlet have been changed "just in case". After 1-2 years the new cheap plastic water outlet have burst and cooland is lost.
@cat_as_trophy : Please check history of your car. Have it had timing belt changed 1-2 year before burst? Any idea were the water outlet changed same time?
When you fixed it, did you use cheap chinese or original part? -> You might be danger it will let go again. Use only OEM or metal one.

 

Greetings to [Just Me] and [Vasara] and thanks for the questions you raise.

First, all the replacement plastic engine outlet connectors that I have seen are molded with identical marks of the OEM parts being replaced, so I have concluded that Ford's global purchasing sourced them from the same Asian supply. So, to answer [Vasara's] question, I am certain that the "cheap plastic part" indeed was Ford's OEM part. I have seen enough of them to be certain they have come from the same manufacturer. My "improved" fix entailed maxi-ties epoxied around that new plastic part.

The newer metal engine outlet connectors that are available now online are an entirely different matter. Perhaps they arose from the initial offering that I believe was engineered in South Australia and was made from stainless steel billet. All metal replacements now appear to be made of a shiny alloy. They are well made and also of 2 piece design, but bolted across the joint face.

In none of the cases I presented, was this failure associated with timing belt replacement. Of the failures, 150,000 to 250,000Km on the clock. Most since have been preventative replacements. I suspected in a few cases, the belt was still original. In others, including my own, failure occurred well inside the mileage for t/b replacement, so no-one had been there previously.

I agree that using the metal replacement part is a no-brainer, especially as current prices are equivalent. Also, I see smart advantages in combining tasks as most work is involved in gaining access to this cramped region between engine and radiator. Again, for both my TTD S-Type and TD Ford Territory that use variants of this V6 engine, I am preparing to remove my "fixed" plastic outlet connectors, replace the timing belt, then finish by installing new metal outlet connectors. I will tackle the far more spacious access that the Ford offers, so my knuckles will still be in good shape before tackling the Jag . . . again!

Thanks again for your questions,
Cheers,

 

Ok. Thanks.
That explains a lot. OEM is not Ford desing, sourced or made. Its made by PSA.
So, replacements you have seen used are ALL NON OEM !! Thats why the repalcements fail.
Same engine is used in HUGE numbers (much more than JLR, Ford combined) on PSA vehicles by name of DT17 / DT20. (C5, C6, 407, 607)
No reported issues at all. -> Same part is handed about 1/3 price over PSA service desk than JRL service desk. -> No other than OEM enter on PSA vehicles.

The metal one is no brainer: If any ever replace the water outlet: Metal one is only one to go.
Cheers

 

Alas [Vasara], any suggestion these failed parts were not OEM, is simply not true. While both my S-Type and Ford Territory were acquired with very low mileage and no mention of replacement in their comprehensive service history, many other vehicles were bought brand new by current owners. Check the experience of JF member [GeeVeeXF] in companion thread. Even if not yet a catastrophic burst. there are ample stories here, some with pics, of weeping connectors, coolant leaks into the vee that dribbles down at rear of engine. These are OEM parts, irrespective of the supplier(s) who made them.

The purpose of our detailed threads has been to warn current owners of this known failure, the possible consequences, and highlight a viable preventive replacement. As these engines age, the possibility of a glued plastic part failing under significant heat stress, becomes more likely.

Your summary that advocates replacement with metal part is absolutely spot on! I shudder at the thought of trying to source a replacement engine here, irrespective of cost, compared to the AU$50 metal connector. So, let's not debate who made, or makes, each part . . . the critical issue is unavoidable . . . in the face of all the evidence, why take such an unnecessary risk?

Cheers and best wishes,

 

Hi Cat_as_trophy,

Yes: I just like to warn that if somebody have known original, propably high mileage, still Ok the biggest mistage seems to be is to change it as preventative for cheap plastic one. There are lot of PSA vehicles with same part without any issues. (been serviced several hundreds of these AJDV6 / DT17/DT20 engines)
I still have original water outlet on my 3.0L x351 XJ with 340t km, soon 16 years. I already planned to change an replacement few years ago for myself, but then my friend reported that on his Land Rover the replacement start leaking only after 9 months when original lasted 8 years. He have kept the original as a spare and mounted it back and been lasted since. Not 100% sure if there are an mounting errors made since if there are stress from water hose/piping for some reason, this will cause stress for the joint. (by wrong routing etc?)

Anyhow: Like you wrote: Its no worth to depate. An good solution is available. Metal one is well available and not expensive. No worth to use anything else.
Also metal inlet manifolds are now available. (for 3.0L) These are a must who like to tune and rise the boost. Engine noise will notable increase.

Cheers.