Hi new to this forum and I think I will be asking plenty of questions in the future .
Although I have built quite a few classics this is going to be my biggest project .I have taken over the building of a 1965 MK1 4.2 E Type .
It is completely stripped and a lot of the hard prep work has been done .All parts cleaned bodyshell painted (red)rear axle built, engine rebuilt but everything else in boxes . I am going to take everything out to see if I can work out what is missing . I am sure I will have to source bushes gaskets etc .This is going to be a steep learning curve as I didn't take it apart .I have worked on Leyland Ford and Citroens before so this will be my first Jag.I was thinking of first putting on the suspension to give me a rolling shell then fuel tank and brake and fuel lines .(what clips do I use) Any suggestions ,

 

As you will have seen, the body shell ends at the bulkhead, and everything is attached to the two engine cradles that bolt onto the bulkhead. I would suggest, therefore, that you check these out very carefully for corrosion because they are made of Reynolds 531 square section tubing. This is not weldable, and the cradles are built using bronze welding, which is essentially a very high strength brazing process. Reynolds 531 is not longer made, and new cradles are produced with different alloy tubing using the same dimensions. These are costly: -
https://www.martinrobey.com/jaguar/e...ne-side-frames
and
https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#...20Id%202403309)

 

Hi phoenix1,
Welcome. You do have a steep learning curve ahead of you, but it can be overcome. I restored a Pantera that was essentially in the same condition as your 65
Series 1 E-type. In order to determine what I had, and what I was missing, I spread all the parts in the garage floor and driveway. I grouped them by systems (Brakes, suspension, fuel system, etc...) If you chose to do this, make sure to have a parts catalog and the shop manual so you have an idea of what you are supposed to have.
I am in the process of restoring my 1968 Coupe and it is an involved process. If you have a bare shell, the first thing you should install are the heater and vacuum pipes in the bulk head, then the windshield washer tubes and windshield wiper assembly. Next the wire harnesses. As you install the gas tank, dash and other interior parts, they will cover the wire harness. When you are not sure ask questions here. There are a lot of very knowledgeable people on this site. Good luck with your project and post some photos so we can follow along.
Bill.

 

The bodyshell has had every rusty panel changed and welded in the same way as original so no problem there.

 

Perfect door gaps

Painted about 10 years ago but still unmarked

No sign at all of any welded non standard panels

All engine cradle new I think

 

Hi again phoenix1,
Yep! you have a bare shell. Looks good and straight on the photos. Hope you have all the parts. Do you know the condition of all the system parts you have?
I think my suggestion that I mentioned in my previous post regarding the order of assembly, definitely applies in your case. You have a heck of a project ahead of you. One that requires patience but can be very satisfying and rewarding as you see the car coming together. Enjoy the build.
Bill.

 

Wow, that is one nice bodyshell and engine frames ! You are starting with the best basis, I just hope you find all the parts are there, but there is now a huge amount of spares back-up for E-types, so you shouldn't have a problem. The main problem I see is that unless the previous owner took photos, you might find a problem with how it all goes together. I rebuilt a Mark 2 in the 80s, so I know how involved it can be, but I also dismantled the car before rebuilding it round an unused shell.

I wish you all the best with the task ahead !!

 

Very Sweet so far. After a ground-up concours rebuild of my '64 OTS I've learned the hard way what can make the process more frustrating. Do not drop in the engine until you have installed all brakes lines,, reservoirs, and connected them to front and rear brake cylinders. Lots of fittings with plenty of places for leaks that can be difficult to reach once engine etc. in place. If using traditional DOT fluid, you want to avoid leaks/drips on your fresh paint so always good to tape off or use some tinfoil in areas where fluid may initially leak. If using silicone fluid in all new virgin system you won't have this issue but would suggest for street use you stick to DOT. Same goes for slave cylinder and line prior to engine installation. It's a bugger to refit these lines with the engine in place should some leaks need attention and paint touch-up is difficult at best. Sickening to have fluid ruin your beautiful fresh paintwork on the frame and bulkhead. Highly suggest you replace all hydraulic lines as corrosion is an issue on the original lines. Note that reproduction fittings may be troublesome to get tight enough to negate fluid drips. Teflon tape can help. Have a feeling original fittings had better machining.

Highly suggest you go to electronic ignition (Petronix for me), aftermarket high capacity fan, and remote rear brake bleeding system. And PLEASE replace all the wiring harnesses. After all these years the wiring has greatly deteriorated. Amazing how much brighter the light systems are with fresh wiring, bulbs, and solid grounds and fresh or cleaned bulb sockets. Should you place an aftermarket high flow fan in front of the radiator screen up in the nose, note that a hot lead wire is already there. It's a red/yellow wire originally intended for fog light option. You only need run a ground wire and install a a toggle switch under the dash. This is my preference opposed to relying on the otter switch.

A wealth of sound deadening and insulation options for you to choose from to make your cockpit far more comfortable than when new.

Just fired up my engine couple weeks ago so working on a few niggling issues but about to put her back on the road after 29 years of a very protracted full restoration. Electrics probably best they've been since '64.

FORUMS a wonderful source of E type information. Best of luck to you on your rebuild. Looks terrific so far.

Bob in Kansas City

 

With the (admittedly, very) little restoration I have done on my '66 E-type FHC, I have found the parts manual to be one of the best sources of information. If you look at the diagrams carefully, they show where and in most cases, how each part is assembled. In the places where there isn't an exploded drawing, the parts list is in the order of assembly and you can figure it out.

Nice shell that you're starting with! My mechanic tells me that it is sometimes a challenge to get new trim parts to align with the body. His recommendation is to use the original parts whenever possible.

 

The rear bumpers can be a real pain to fit due to their curvature not matching that of the body shell. This can be especially so with pattern replacements. I believe even Jaguar when assembling the cars had to fettle the bumpers before chroming. It was easy for them as there was a chroming plant at the Jaguar factory.

 

Yes I am finding a parts manual better than the actual Haynes type book . I am finding lots of items missing I have given the owner a big list of items to look for . It was taken apart about 20 years ago and moved so its going to be difficult . Rear suspension and diff all built up but cant find upper front wishbones yet. I was hoping to make it into a rolling shell then i can prop it up to do the brake and fuel lines . I have also found the fuel tank is quite rusty inside so that is another job to do on the list . I have ordered the three part system to fix that . One of the biggest jobs is trying to identify all the brackets .
I have built minis, frogeyes Fiat 500 s etc but this is going to take about a year as it is only a part time job for me (over 70) . I have found Martin Robey about the best supplier and I have paid the loyalty fee to get the discount . As I start to progress I will ad some photos..

 

Hi again Phoenix1,
With regards to the brackets, if you can't figure out what it is and/or where it goes; post a photo here and I am sure that there will be a few members that will recognize it and point you in the right direction.
Good luck.
Bill.

 

Unless you've had previous success with gas tank cleaner/coating products, I'd suggest you opt for a new replacement tank. Twice the outlay but peace of mind that your new tank is galvanized and won't dog you later with rust issues that may re-appear. I've tried several coating kits and they just didn't perform as expected even after following directions explicitly. In one case, the coating all flaked off after the tank sat in storage for 5 or so months before any fuel was stored in it. An even bigger mess that prompted me to bite off a new tank. You might elect to have a local restoration shop, radiator shop, etc. have a go at it...but doubt they'll provide any guarantees.

An added bonus, at least for those replacing series one tanks, .... the new tanks are much easier to shoehorn into the trunk cavity.

Bob G

 

Ok you asked for it . First I will show the built up rear suspension/dif .



!-2

3-4

5-6 -7

8-9-10

11-12-13

14-15-16

17-18

19-20-21

21-22-13 seem to have 2 21s

24

25-26

27

28

29

30

31

32

33-34

34-35

36-37

38

38

39

40

 

I can do a couple of the easy ones:

#31 - enclosure that goes around the radio, under the dash
#32 - battery tray

Others look familiar but I'll let others who are more certain weigh in on those.

 

Hi Phoenix1,

I recognize some of the brackets, but not all. So here goes:

#1. One of several aluminum brackets used to secure the mud shields to the square tubes of the front subframe.

#12 Looks like the support bracket for the heater box assembly in the engine compartment. Attaches to one of the square tubes of the subframe. On my car this bracket is welded to the heater box. Could be broken off on yours.

#16. Strength/support back plate for the removable gas tank bracket inside the trunk. It mounts to the outside of the panel where the rear end assembly is.

#18. Support bracket for voltage regulator. Mounts inside the engine compartment adjacent to the battery. Mounts directly under where the main harness enters the body shell.

#26. Looks like the flywheel/clutch under cover that mounts where the gearbox mounts to the engine.

#30. Covers for the hinges on the rear hatch.

#31. Radio/Speakers mounting console.

#33. Footwell cover plate for the opposite side of the car to where your pedals are.

#34-35. Under dash access doors.

#36. Looks like the bracket for the engine stabilizer mount. In the engine compartment center of firewall.

#37. Looks like the spacer/bracket for the starter.

#39. Looks like the trim piece that covers the “A” pillar and goes over the door opening. It is missing the upholstery.



Hope this is helpful to you and that someone else can contribute in identifying the other brackets.

Good luck.

Bill.

 

#15 support brackets for torsion bar crossplate that fits between frame rails on either side of transmission.
#24 is an IRS access cover...allows access to top brake pads for removal/replacement. Secured with slot head metal screws.
#29 Fits beneath the fold-down center gauge cluster...part of 3-piece toggle switch ID consisting of plastic ID strip, metal piece shown and a thin tinted plastic strip that allows backlighting for the ID strip.

Bob G in KC

 

Thanks to Bob and Bill for that . yesterday cleaned and sealed fuel tank and stone chipped outside . It was very rusty inside and out but it was far cheaper than a new one . Next jobs fit rear IRS and wiring looms. I have just got a wiring diagram from autosparks which should help .
I am also going to give a big list of missing parts to the owner .

 

I think a lot of the tin ware could be for the stone / mud guards . I will have to wait till I get further on. Now fitting the front suspension and as yet short of a few parts. (not in stock ) at Martin Robey .ARB links ,mount blocks and Gaz shocks. Bryan

 

Hi can anybody tell me if the wiper motor is fitted to any other car and not just Jaguar . Thanks. Bryan