I'm about to undertake a full restoration on a 68 2+2. What do you think would be better, a 4 post lift or a rotisserie...does a lift make it that much easier to strip it down? Yes, there is a good amount of rust... Thanks

 

Pulling the engine and drive train would probably be easiest on a hoist. But once you're ready to begin the body work nothing beats a rotisserie. If you have a little time and a welder, a rotisserie can be built for less than a hundred dollars.

 

Congrats on your 2+2. Mine is also a '68. Once you dive into the rusty parts check out Monocoque Metalworks for ways to patch or replace panels. Also, SNG has a great selection of parts that you will want for replacing or rebuilding. Rotisserie hands down for body work on the tub and floors.

 

Rotisserie it is. Much cheaper... Thanks everyone, I'm sure you will get to know me as I undertake this magnificent, rusty car... 4.2L....3 carbs... 4 speed... How can I complain? Any decent rotisserie plans out there that fit the xke better??

 

Well Stancey...you are not alone. I'm in the throngs of mustering the energy to attack my 67 2+2. It looks like Chuck (Monocoque Metalworks) has a nice setup. Chat him about his Rotissierie.
Good Luck with your project, I'll be lurking...

 

Rotiserie is best. I made a jig to support my FHC and will now switch to my OTS. A rigid jig is extremely important for the OTS, less for the FHC. WIll post some pics of this

 

I have a burnt 66 S1 2+2, soon to start.
Does anyone have a dimensioned plan for a full jig/rotisserie?
I'll need a full jig as roof caved in with the heat and doors don't close .
Replacing bulkhead, roof, sills, floors, doors!

 

Check out redwing steel works. He has what looks to be a nice set up and detailed plans. I'm not sure yet if I will make or buy mine. A cheap/decent one runs $900. Steel is cheap to make one except if you want to put the hydraulic Rams in. I think I priced those out at around $150 for the pair.

 

FYI. Chuck at monocoque metal works uses a rotisserie made by autotwirler. He said you will still need to weld up a cage made out of square tube to bolt the chassis to, then bolt/weld that to the rotisserie.

 

If you have lost your datum points with warpage, you may have a hard time making a jig from scratch. I made mine from my FHC I am restoring, and now I have new sills in and the monocoque is stable I am getting ready to place my OTS which has some integrity issues on the jig and pull/push it into position. I will post some pictures.
Rear attachment is where the IRS cage bolts to legs and the front are where the engine frame attaches to the front, For a distorted car you would probably need all of these points to get back to a true and straight assembly.

 

Allows for great access




Twin C beams give great rigidity and has done well to maintain integrity




Looking down other side


Rotisserie is easy, jig is harder. Easiest/best way is if you have true engine frame to sacrifice to use as front attachment and then make a saddle for the rear axle mounts. I will get some pics and measurements as I am getting ready to switch my FHC off of the jig, and mounting my OTS. The FHC will go onto to a more minimal rotisserie set up for final panel attachment and body work.

 

Fred Flintstone's jaguar!






This mobile overhead gantry crane helps a lot as well to do a lot of this work as I am alone in shop 99% of the time unless I bribe my son to come out




Heavy unit, have restored one so this one should be easier




38 yr old gas is molasses but sump came off with minimal force and tank is fairly solid, will have boiled out and sealed

 

So this is my 68 2+2. I wasn't planning on pulling the engine last night but my neighbor came over to help assemble my new engine hoist and here you go. Stupid question. I plan on getting the engine professionally machined, however can I take a power washer to the whole lump. It's so greasy that just bumping up next to it makes a mess and I would like to have it cleaner as I dismantle it.

 

Yeah it is funny how that happens: I'll tell my wife I need to run out and turn the lights off in the shop----4 hours later I get back in . How was the engine removal? I am looking forward to using my lift next time instead of having the back end 2 feet in the air. The are filthy when pulled! Hope to pull the engine from my bugeye sprite this week. A 4 cylinder, only two less than the E-type but a lot smaller!!

 

Thank goodness for overhead HF Gantry crane. Working alone (as always) able to pick up the lump that the IRS unit is and put on rebuilding table.

 

No real issues getting it out. I dropped it out of the car instead of lifting it out. Seemed pretty easy. The mount that sits under the transmission and has several bolts holding it down on each side was a pain to get off. You definitely have to release the torsion bars on the front suspension to get the plate off. Now I am looking at it wondering if I will ever get it put back together (everything in the right place). Oh, well....I'm sure everyone that has worked on these cars has had that oh SH$% moment. I'm trying to find someone in the Austin area that has a similar setup so that I can take a peak at their car every once in awhile when I get lost. The neighbors are taking bets on the over / under on time frame of this restoration...

 

"You're a better man than I am, Ghunga Din!!!"