E type ( XK-E ) 1961 - 1975

New Alternator wiring

Old Oct 16, 2018 | 07:29 PM
  #1  
ElliottS's Avatar
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From: San Jose
Default New Alternator wiring

I am replacing the original alternator in my 69 series 2 with AC. I bought the alternator from ebay, 110amp version, there are many ads with this alternator. I do not understand the wiring and hooked it up as best as I can tell but the voltage never gets above battery voltage, or ~14.7v. it stays at 12.5v. I wired the feedback on the alternator to the B+ threaded stud. The 2 wires that were connected to the brushes on the old and the AC wire bypassing the relay to the idiot light which now seems to work. I have a extra wire that was connected to the old alternator that I don't know what to do with. It read about 0.2v all the time, eng. on or off. The alternator claims a one with hook up but not working. Any suggestions would be welcome.

Thanks
Elliott
 
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Old Oct 17, 2018 | 03:15 PM
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Elliot, can you supply some clarification. Is this a "one wire" alternator meaning the voltage regulator is built in but also including a feedback input? If so, its output and its feedback input should both be tied to the B+ stud. There may be a ground terminal too.. That should do it. The ignition warning light will not work unless the alternator has an additional output to drive the 3AW. Many people have converted to one wire alternators and other comments may be coming. I personally have not but believe my suggestions are correct. If the regulator is not built in please supply whatever data you have about the connections.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2018 | 04:20 PM
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Thanks Bill,
I did the feedback connection. It has a AL connection for the idiot light and the bypassed relay controller. I get the feeling I am missing the activation signal. I don’t know where that comes from, which wire do I have available for this function.
Any ideas other ideas welcomed. I’m going to try your suggestions now.

Yup, internal regulator. Mounted facing backwards and is quiet and smooth with eng running. I should not have to do anything and get the 14v. I just have to keep at it. It has to work some way.
Thanks again,
Elliott
 
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Old Oct 18, 2018 | 09:15 AM
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Glad to hear your alternator has the AL terminal. It connects to the AL terminal on the 3AW. In the original wiring harness, I think it is brown with a yellow trace.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 08:13 AM
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They all go.....I did that 25 years ago....The idiot light still works on a series 2 due to a wire in the harness feeding the old regulator that wont work because you took the wires off the alternator.
Your alt is working fine, now that you have a modern internal regulator, the fluctuation is so minimal you wont see it on the needle unless your starting the car.
Enjoy the set up and now you can add halogen sealed headlights......oncomers will flash you now
GTJOEY1314
 
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Old Jan 24, 2019 | 12:47 PM
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Can you give details on the alternator? What specific alternator? I have a 68 series 1.5 with AC and Im looking to replace my alternator with a modern unit.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2019 | 12:58 AM
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DuesEXMaxima,
I finally gave up trying to make the EBAY Alternator work and took it in to a British car repairman. He could not make it work either but for about $20 more he ($135) he got a Lucas Alternator with internal voltage regulator. I don't know how it is wired but I am pleased that I can drive the car. I could find out where he got it assuming he will tell me or I could give you a way to phone him. I am in San Jose Ca so not to far from you. Let me know.

Elliott Stage
 
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