Hello,

i would need your expertise and gentle advises please.

After 4 years of patience, my Serie II OTS just came back from mechanics and paint shop some weeks ago. Engine has been totally rebuilt with new pistons and Eiffel chassis are brand new as the overall painting. I changed the hood, rebuilt the hydraulic steering rack, fuel lines, pump and reservoir. Time to drive it But unfortunately, it still some major issues i'm trying to fix :
Water temp
The gauge is showing a very hot temperature. I take the real temp at intake manifold with an infrared camera.
- pointer is vertical at 45°celcius
- It is just below red bar at 64°celcius
- it is at the last stage of red bar at 79°. Ventilator starts at 85°.
Oil pressure
Original pressure sensor is showing 0 lb when engine is off. When contact is switched on, the pointer is going from 0 to 60 and come back to 0. Then it jumps from 0 to 30 every 10 secondes. Engine running, pointer shows 60lb whenever the engine cold or warm, and whatever the rpm is.
A new sensore, purchased from SNG, showed 50lb whatever the rpm when cold. It showed 40lb when warm at idle and 50lb at 2500rpm. it worked for 20 miles. Now it shows 50lb even the engine is not running
... With SNG sensor, Oil gauge is receiving 12.82v and sends 7.64v to the sensor, engine off. 8.65v when engine's running...

I did my homework and tested the dashboard and alternator electrical circuit.
Tension is 12.82v engine not running
Tension is 14.5v at idle
Tension is 14.6v at 2500rpm
Same tension at battery as at volt gauge
Tension after gauge regulators is between 5 and 10.5v.
Oil Gauge electronic filter is showing 3.2v. Any difference on gauge with or without this filter.
+ terminal post, Battery and Alternator connectors are clean and greased
0.16 ohms gap between negative battery and engine earth. Same with dashboard earth
I tried to find out if I had any power coming from oil pressure sensor to the gauge. Nothing.
I tried without cigarette lighter, radio and antena. Still the same issue.
And finally i tried with disconnecting fuses one by one... still the same.

I did not tried the fuel+matches... but i'm beginning to think about it

I'm aware the oil pressure issue could come from the pressure regulator, just below oil filter. But i do not understand why the oil pressure would not change even if oil is warm... it makes no sense for me. Anyway, I should receive a mechanical oil pressure sensor+gauge today. I will keep your in touch.

The forum already helped me a lot with several related post but i still stucked despite my actions...
Thanks in advance for your kindness and patience.
Olivier

 

You have replaced the radiator?

 

Hello Valerie,
no I did not. Thermal camera shows a standard engine temperature. It seems not overheating…

 

Here are some news for today. I’ve received my workshop mechanical oil pressure gauge.
engine cold
35 psi at idle
40 psi at 2000 rpm
engine warm 80 degrees
40 psi at idle
50 psi at 2000 rpm

a little to high at idle, isn’t it ?

I cannot edit my first post, please read "Tension" as "Voltage". Sorry for my poor English, and thanks a lot for your patience and comprehension

 

I probably resolved my water temperature gauge issue...
I desassembled the little regulator behind the dashboard pannel. On the bench, with a little cutter and my best glasses, i cut the glue on the little harm, right of the component. Turned 360° counter clockwise and re-installed it on the dashboard, reconnected.

Previous measures was :
Real Temp // Gauge Needle
45°c // Vertical
64°c // 2mm before red
79°c // last part (right) of the red bar
Now i can read :
Real Temp // Gauge Needle
50°c // Vertical
73°c // 2mm before red
82°c // left part of the red bar
Ventilator is starting at 82° and temp is dropping to 79° before fan stop.

Still oil pressue issue left. Any suggestion would be welcome

 

I think you posted this on the UK E Type forum. Oil pressures are fine. The reason why your hot oil pressure at idle is higher than your cold idle is probably because your tickover is faster when hot. Oil pressure on the E is quite sensitive to engine speed at the lower end. Give your oil pressure a tick and move on would be my advice.

 

Thanks for your advise, much appreciated. You're totaly right, idle is maybe not exacty the same cold as warm engine.
I will try a thinner oil as expected in UK forum, and will let you all know the result.

 

Thinner? 20/50 mineral is the oil to use. Valvoline R is great, but any mineral will do.

 

I mean thinner than the one that has been used by the mechanics after rebuilding the engine…

 

What oil did they use then? Presumably you know, otherwise you wouldn't know if you were buying a thinner grade?

 

You’re right Malcom. I’m expecting. I’ll let you know the result… fingers cross.

 

Hello,

i finally changed the oil by a 20/50 mineral one. I changed the filter oil and discovered the mechanism was not complete. The spring and oil filter plate were missing... I toke the one from an XJ6 engine that is standing at the back of my garage
They are fitting well.



Pushing forward, i dismantled the oil filter head assembly to be able to unmount the relief valve (it was glued with red loctite). I cleaned everthing including the valve, cleaned and replaced everything in place...



Using a workshop mechanical oil pressure gauge, i can see 2.5 bars at idle (engine warm), and 4 bars at 3.000 rpm. Job done

 

Perfect