I have a problem with my E.
The engine has been rebuilt, all teh cooling jackets were flushed and cleaned by me so I know they are clean, the head is very clean inside.
It has a new water pump, the timing is fine, it has a new thermostat, it has new leads, plugs and electronic ignition with new distributor
It has newer type fans on the raditor not them crappy originals.
The car runs fine (and on keeps cool wven when pushed hard) even when on a very hot day as I have had in Europe recently, but when in slow moving city traffic it gets very hot, like near the red hot. The fans work.
The only thing I have not done is chaneg teh raditor, but it does look clean inside from what I can see.
Would a new aluminium type stop this, or do I just have to avoid town traffic.
What I do notice is that oil pressured drops too at low revs when it gets CITY hot so the engine is actually very hot and not just teh temp gauge.

kind regards
MArk

 

I switched from my stock rad to a Coolcat rad and the difference is amazing. I had similar problems as you describe (even boiled the tranny fluid once), and now my car stays at 185-190 no matter how hot it gets. I was in line for a parking spot at a recent car show and ended up idling for 30 minutes to move one block and the temp went up to 190. Either re-core your stock rad or get a new one, and that will fix her up.
Also, low oil pressure at idle when she is hot is quite normal, I read somewhere else that 10 -15 psi at idle is OK and a 10 psi increase per 1,000 rpm is average.

 

Mark ,Next week I'm going to try and post many upgrades with my 4.2 series 2 .
Over 30 years and me and my friends use them a good 6,000 miles per year!
Great start what you posted....
1. Do you still have the twin strombergs or triples?
2. I swear by a k+n filter , its good for 3 to5 degrees.
3. Aluminium rad and a modern electric fan will help HUGE!
4. Ive done tricks like the series 3 xj6 exhaust cover, hayden electric switch , they all help.
I did another trick today but will put 1,000 miles next week to prove it out.
Also a 160 thermostat will help when tied in with the hayden adjustable switch.
The otter switch and original rad with the twin fans is sooooo out dated and one removed will save at least 60 to 70 lbs of dead weight.
Good luck!
P.S. you did bleed the block running the heater core correct?
GTJOEY1314

 

Hi yes i bled the block the coolant level is good though lost about a cupfull in the 2500 mile trip so am not concerned at that possible a slight weep somewhere. Got rid of strombergs put 3 off su on with kn filters. Car was then set up by mcwilkinson in doncaster uk. I got rid of the poor s2 fans and put 2 if revotec tye units i, otter switch is working fine have a bypass switch and a light so in know when they come on.my suspicion was rad at low rpm sat idling in traffic. It did get very hot outside temp was 30 degc too at the time.

 

I have 1968 UK Spec S1 with S2 cooling system from new and the only variation from original is the radiator having a higher spec recore fitted 14 years ago. I don't know much about radiators but the invoice says 14 FPI, CT, Tube Pitch 10.5-11.1. I live in sub-tropical Australia and have zero problems with overheating. Yes, the fans are the 48 year old "crappy originals" which only start up in slow traffic.

 

Good Man!
You need the radiator and the hayden switch , this way you can dial in when the fans kick on each car is different.
Thankfully you switched to the triples.....
No offense but the twin strombergs unless for show are not real etypes.....
IMHO.
Take a look at these enjoy my friend...........
Keep in touch. Once you get the aluminium rad and switch, it will be night and day.
Good luck
GTJOEY1314

 

You like how I swapped to early cam box covers......so clean looking, by going triples the cross over pipe is out and a series three xj6 exhaust cover looks sooooo smooth.
Look closely the pipe to the cleaner is being swapped will report a filter system to contain the blowby.
GTJOEY1314