Hello All,
I have read quite a bit on the forums already and found some issues with coolant leaks common especially on the 35t's. The car I am considering has 82k miles on it. At 67k, the CarFax report says the following:​​​​​​

• Vehicle serviced
  • Thermostat replaced
  • A/C, heater ducts repaired
  • Cooling system checked
  • Heater hose(s) replaced
  • Intake manifold gasket(s) replaced
  • Antifreeze/coolant flushed/changed

Should I be concerned that this is a precursor for more issues or rejoicing because this frequent issue has already been addressed?

 

Try asking the members at F-Type (X152) or XJ (X351). Tell them you're considering buying an F-Pace with a 6 cylinder engine.

 

I've got both an F-Pace and an F-Type with the 3.0L engines.
2017 F-Pace has 176K miles ... no issues. It compares very favorably to a Porsche Macan S except it is a bit more surefooted in adverse weather. (Same tires on both).
Regular fluid maintenance ... Oil/Coolant are a must. Do NOT run the oil changes to 10,000 or more miles (yes, I know what is printed on the labels and the manufacturers own propaganda), I do mine at the standard 5K and only use WIX or MANN oil filters. I use Liqui Moly Special Tec for oil. It is expensive, but doing the oil change yourself with a MityVac or similar extractor only takes about 15 minutes and more than makes up the difference in cost having it done for you.
Coolant flush every third oil change. Be careful with the coolant, be absolutely certain that you are using the same coolant if you are refilling ... mixing different coolant chemistries together can/will cause problems.
I drive both Jag's in rotation with a Porsche Macan S commuting to work (80 miles round trip).
If it isn't apparent ... the F-Pace is my long haul vehicle, largely because it is better in heavy weather than the Porsche and can haul more than 2 pairs of fresh underpants.

 

BattleHymn,

I can't thank you enough! That is EXACTLY the information I needed. We bought the F-Pace and I LOVE it! My husband has been saying since we picked it up that he was not waiting on 10k miles for an oil change. He was thrilled to read your post and realize that these can be long standing engines if treated well. We can do that part! Thank you!

 

NP ... Don't be afraid to drive it in sport mode, but make sure you let it get to operating temp before you really get on it ... just be careful because it WILL pull all the way to 115mph and beyond shockingly quickly for an SUV.
One of the killers for any car is to make numerous short trips that don't allow the engine to get to operating temp ... except maybe EV's.
When you do an oil change be sure to note your coolant level to make sure you aren't loosing any and with the engine cover off get a flashlight and check around for leaks. With what you posted about the cooling system repairs you are probably well insulated.
I don't know if you like the feature or not, but I would also suggest turning of auto stop/start ... there is a way to permanently disable it, you can search the forums for it ... It involves pulling an electrical plug near the passenger side rear tail light (Most model years). I personally despise that feature and either programed it out or physically disabled it in all my vehicles except the Porsche. Porsche is the only manufacturer that the feature is an opt in instead of an opt out ... meaning in a Porsche you have to push a button to turn auto stop/start on, others default to on.

If yours doesn't have wireless carplay and you would like to add it there are a few solutions for that ... one is using and external dash mounted device like CARPURIDE that does require routing one power line to an adapter, another is an add-in module that replaces the factory nav screen with CARPLAY/ANDROID Auto (doesn't modify anything else, Jag factory NAV is horrible).

I would try not to close the rear manually, the two lifters are timed and if they get out of time the hatch will close unevenly and may stick. (Learned this on the Porsche)

 

I haven't tried the sport mode yet but I plan to tomorrow when my trip includes some more fun roads than I have had the pleasure to travel just yet

You an my husband are completely on the same page. The first thing he asked the salesman was how to turn off the engine stop/start feature. I will look up the fix you mentioned. As of late, I have been just remembering to push the A when I get going.

We live in the country so everything is a long drive for us. I don't drive everyday though as I work from home. The good news is, there are plenty of back roads around!

I am looking up several things on the forum tonight again thanks to you!

I truly appreciate it!

 

This module is in the load space area, on the right, behind the side panel trim. This will disable Start/Stop.

JLR's have AGM batteries and NEED the 950 CCA's they were born with to operate properly. When the batteries get down to 500 CCA's after about 4 years, all sorts of electrical gremlins come out to play.

If you didn't wind up with the wide screen infotainment then you didn't get Carplay. If you did, I recommend this: Either way, the best place to put your phone and charge it, IMHHEO, is to use the ProClip USA FPace specific phone mount with the MagicMount Charge Elite magnetic mount/charger and an Anker 40 watt USB C car charger stuck in the power point.

Takes about 5 minutes to change the oil. You'll need an oil extractor, oil filter cap socket, Mahle or Mann oil filter and LiquiMoly 0W-20 LR spec oil. Get the HOLT industries extractor from Harbor Freight. DO NOT shove the plastic extractor hose down the tube in the Jag. Use the soft plastic hose the extractor comes with and slip it over the metal tube on the Jag. Everything else is Amazon.

Use top tier premium gas. Costco is top tier, Sam's Club is not. Personally I go to Mobil.

Keep an eye on the coolant level, like EVERY week. Always check it cold and open up the reservoir to make sure it's at exactly the same level every time. There are so many things in the engine bay that want to weaken and leak. The main problem is people will ignore or be unaware of a small leak until it becomes a big leak and the motor catastrophically overheats in a blink of the eye. And no, you can't count on the coolant gauge in the car to warn you.

 

Keep an eye on the coolant level, like EVERY week. Always check it cold and open up the reservoir to make sure it's at exactly the same level every time. There are so many things in the engine bay that want to weaken and leak. The main problem is people will ignore or be unaware of a small leak until it becomes a big leak and the motor catastrophically overheats in a blink of the eye. And no, you can't count on the coolant gauge in the car to warn you.[/QUOTE]

Thank you again for all the awesome information! I have been super paranoid about the cooling. I've been checking each time before I drive it! LOL I'm on tonight to try and see old vs new pipe design pics to see if mine have already been replaced, LOL

 

New issue.

Started the F-Pace yesterday morning and the drive selector knob did not rise. When I turned off the engine it did not allow me to take it out of drive or lock the doors. I took my foot off the brake and hit the star button (ACC mode) then put my foot on the brake and started the engine. At this point the drive selector knob rose out of the console normally.
I think this is a low battery symptom. When I connected my charger it showed the battery was at 50% ... so I'm fairly confident that a fully charged battery will correct the issue. I did not get the "Low Battery, Please start Engine" warning. Charging the battery now and will edit this with the result.
With the cold weather coming this could be a bit more widespread with cars that have not had a battery replacement in the last 3-5 years. BTW: a battery is going to run between 250 and 400, then there is a reset you have to do to the battery module so it charges correctly.

 

Your F-Pace is a 2017, correct? Is the battery the original? If it is, I think that 7 years is most definitely the time to replace it...........