I think this needs to be stickied as the amount of exhaust related threads is getting out of control. Here are the basics:

1. Passive Exhaust
-Typically found on the base F-TYPE
-No exhaust valves
-No button on the console
-Exhaust note is pretty muted at low RPM and or low load conditions
-Pulling any fuses will not enhance exhaust noise as the actual hardware that would be controlled by the fuses is not present
-Any snap, crackle, pop, backfire noises are ALL software controlled. You will still get the snort between upshifts and all the backfire noises with a mid to high RPM downshift or simply blipping the gas at mid range RPM

2. Active Exhaust
-Typically found on earlier F-TYPEs V6 and V8
-Has exhaust valves
-DOES NOT HAVE button on console to open exhaust valves
-Exhaust note is pretty muted at low RPM or low load conditions
-Car will automatically open exhaust valves at high RPM/high load conditions
-Any snap, crackle, pop, backfire noises are ALL software controlled. You will still get the snort between upshifts and all the backfire noises with a mid to high RPM downshift or simply blipping the gas at mid range RPM; this will occur regardless if the valves are open or closed

3. Configurable Active Exhaust
-Found on all levels of F-TYPEs; depending on the build spec
-Has exhaust valves
-HAS button on console to open/close valves
-Exhaust note is pretty muted at low RPM or low load conditions unless you
you choose to leave the valves open, exhaust note will be deeper at all RPMs.
-Even if you choose to leave the valves closed, the car will still automatically open exhaust valves at high RPM/high load conditions
-Any snap, crackle, pop, backfire noises are ALL software controlled. You will still get the snort between upshifts and all the backfire noises with a mid to high RPM downshift or simply blipping the gas at mid range RPM; this will occur regardless if the valves are open or closed

There are 3 basic muffler box designs:
1. V6 without the valves


2. V6 WITH the valves (note the U-shaped piping at the inlets)


3. V8 (V8 mufflers will always have the valves)

 

Look at you still caring about the F-Type forum even though you're almost outta here..

 

Fantastic synopsis.

I would add - pulling fuse F43 on option 2 leaves valves open all the time.

 

BUMP back to the top!

NEW GUYS READ THIS!!!!

 

Thanks for this.

I was rereading the Jag document on Active Exhaust for the MY14 (my car), and I've decided that my car does not behave the way this document says it should.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/szc3vze5ol...haust.pdf?dl=0

I have a V6 S with active exhaust, but not switchable active exhaust. This document says that switching into Dynamic mode should give the same result as switching on active exhaust (for those with the switch), but this isn't true on my car. My car behaves the way described for 'Normal Mode' in the document: valves open depending on load, and I can hear them opening and closing around 1100RPM (since my valves has gotten squeaky), regardless of whether Dynamic Mode is on.

It does sound different with Dynamic Mode off, like maybe the valves never open, or open part way.

 

Thank you for your post, it is very useful.


For those that are wondering I just upgraded from number 1 (passive exhaust) to an active exhaust but I did not install the vacuum hoses or the button so the valves are always open. The difference in sound is pretty big in both lower RPMs and higher RPMs. Also, the "cracks and pops" sound more like gunfire now than just speakers popping. On the down side, there is a bit of droning on the highway now that didn't exist before but that can be easily changed with down shifting


Long story short, I have heard that difference between active exhaust and non-active exhaust was pretty small (non-active exhaust is 80% of active exhaust). I am inclined to believe that this is the case for going from 2 to 3. The difference between the passive exhaust and active exhaust is significant.

 

For what its worth, in the USA for MY2018 it would appear that there is less confusion of options:

MY2018 'SVR', 'R', 'Sport 400' and 'R Dynamic' models all have switchable active exhaust as standard and all other models (whether I4, V6 340/380) have active exhaust as standard with the switch as an available $220 option.

The passive option seems to be gone in the USA at least.

 

Thank you for this awesome post.
Sadly at the time the 2.0 F-Type was not released yet, so not much informations on it's Active Exhaust System.

I just got the 2.0 F-Type with the active exhaust system but without the button.

- Do you think as the V6 and V8 I still have the valves ?

I try to remove the fuse that control the active exhaust (F15 under the hood - left part - found that on my user manual )
Ths result is : Car in Degraded mode... When i start it.
So i plug the fuse back in and the car worked again,

 

"Active Exhaust" would imply that it has the valves.

 

Awesome thread - needs a DO NOT UPDATE TO K309 ref though

 

I am considering doing this. I found an Ftype near me that is parting out and I'm tempted to make an offer for the active exhaust. Do I need just the muffler or do I need the intermediate pipe also? The intermediate pipe looks the same to me in photos, but the part diagrams show different part numbers for active and passive.

 

I have a MY14 V8S convertible with no switch in center console. Just wanted to add a quick note for anyone who may have an active exhaust (S model) but no switch installed - Worry not! You can open your exhaust and leave it open all the time and it takes less than 1 minute to do.

Open passenger footwell and remove fuse F43 (a fusepuller is located in the fusebox as well, unless you or someone else removed yours, so you don't need any other tools). It will leave the exhaust open and you smiling all the time. Pulling the fuse does same thing as loud button on cars with the switch installed. I installed a switch across fuse terminals with an inline fuse so I can turn the noise off and on whenever I want (spoiler alert: the noise is virtually always on).

Only reason for switch is when we are driving on highway for extended periods of time and want a more silent cabin. As soon as we get off freeway, its 100% loud because its just too damn fun.

Dynamic mode does not leave exhaust valve open all the time, as you will quickly learn when you pull the fuse. If you do not have the switch and thought that putting your car in dynamic mode was the same as having the loud button, you are in for a massively great surprise. Hats off to Jag for such a crazy stock exhaust....Its the main reason my wife and I both enjoy driving the car so much

For all those worried about doing this, you can literally do 0 damage to your car (so long as you are only pulling fuse F43) outside of maybe breaking a clip on the fuse box holder by leaning on it by accident (learned that the hard way).

 

There are many threads related to this. I have F43 currently removed, as I have the dreaded squeaky/grindy active exhaust valve noise. In the V6S, I find it drones unacceptably at highway speeds, though presumably if I dropped down to 7th gear, to increase the revs a bit, the drone would be decreased.

Personally, not sure I can live with it like this. At some point, I'll probably replace the muffler, unless I can find a way to quiet the valves (which seems unlikely.)

The plus side of removing F43 is that it stops the active exhaust vacuum pump, which is rather noisy around 2K RPM - sounds like a heat shield buzzing.

 

I unfortunately do not know much about the V6S, as I only test drove one for 10 miles or so before the V8 stole my heart.

The V8 is surprisingly quiet on freeway with valves opened, I just like to close them to make the cabin even quieter to enjoy that lovely Meridian system. Can't comment on squeaky noise either, never heard anything like that.

Have you thought about throwing a cheap rocker switch with an inline fuse across F43 terminals so you can close the valves on demand?

 

Well, putting a switch across F43 would let me toggle between having the valves always open, or letting the ECM manage them. I have considered it, but haven't gone beyond that.

 

Tried some grease on the noisy parts? The actuators are accessible if you get the car off the ground. There's a pivot that could be the culprit

 

Byrnout thanks for this experience ! But there is sadly no fuse 43 on the 18MY... There is one call "active exhaust" (number 15) but removing it will cause a "Restricted Performance Mode".

 

I feel like the car is a bit tame in Dynamic mode without the valves open. Great for a GT type drive, which is great in its own right and makes the car a better cruiser on demand, but when you want the noise, I feel it comes up short.

I am definitely biased on this however, as my first experience with this car was when I rented a V8S with the switch option on Turo for my wife's birthday and we both loved driving it with the valves open - didn't close them the whole week. When we purchased our V8S without the switch, I had the local Jag dealer confirm I could open the valves with F43 before making any moves.

The switch is super easy to install and costs all of ~$10 and about 1.5h to wire/solder together and install. I have mine routed up to the glove box so I can pull the wires/switch out and replace the fuse anytime I want to go back to 100% stock. No holes drilled.

I'd take a look at the actuators as 15Ftype suggests, as mine are silent.

 

Thanks for the heads up amouch. Good to know they changed something in 18', maybe they found out about the work around and locked up the option so you have to pay for the factory switch (don't know too much about the 18' options).

I know the 14' has at least 2 fuses located in the car for the valves, there is one other one in the engine bay. Is there only one fuse listed as active exhaust for the 18'?

 

I do plan to look at the actuators, but from a number of photos I've looked at, I don't expect them to be lubricatable. (Nice word I just made up.) Folks who've had this 'squeaky valve' issue have had the muffler replaced under warranty. (My warranty expired this past spring.) The valves are welded inline with the muffler inlet pipes. It's probably the valve pivots that are squeaking, or perhaps the valve rubbing inside the pipe. Doubt it's the actuator making the noise.

Don't have a lift handy, but I expect to look at it somehow this spring when the car comes out of storage.