First issue i have with the R although it shouldn't be a big deal. Just curious if anybody else encountered similar issues.

While on auto, the A/C works fine initially, then once it gets to the desired temperature, instead of reducing the amount of cold air pumped into the car, it blows warmer air from outside, and then it kicks back on.

If not using auto and just set a temperature, the a/c compressor seems to be going in and out.

Seems like either not enough pressure on the a/c lines/compressor or defective cabin temperature sensor.

 

A/C system is stupid. Just like how the system will not stay on inside cabin recirculating. After a while it goes back to "fresh outside air." Not even sure if there is an inside cabin/carbon filter because in a big city, all you smell is exhaust.

 

You might try raising the ragtop.😛

 

Having the re-circulated air setting time-out and go back to fresh air is becoming more common on cars these days. I've seen it on two or three other models recently, including my current Jeep.

 

I had the same issue and then the A/C quit cooling at all and only blew warm air. It was a valve that needed replacing. The valve either would open and not close or would not open at all. The dealer already knew about the issue and there were 3 other 2015 Jaguars at the dealer the same day for the same issue. 2 were F Types and one was an XK.

 

LOL, had to do that one time when stuck in traffic and next to me was an elevated Ford F250 or something with huge wheels and side exhaust blowing right in my face.

 

On the earlier model jags you press & hold the recirc button for 5 seconds and then it stays on permanently without timing out. Same with the land rover

 

Also true on the 2014 F-Type

 

Thank you. Maybe I didn't read the manual thoroughly enough but holding the recirc button for 5 seconds did the trick.

 

Unfortunately, my local dealer is not familiar with this issue. They kept the car for 5 days and told me it's running fine.

Additionally, to blowing warm air, i can smell condensation in the air that comes thru the vents.

Do you by any chance still have the invoice? It would be great if you could tell me what the part is called or a part number.

Thank you

 

I sent you a PM with the information.

 

Can you be more specific? You said a 'valve' but what valve and where? What did Jaguar charge to fix it? I have the same problem on my 2017 car.

 

You are responding to a 9 year old post.

 

Jeff I think I can help?
My 2014 XJR suffered from this and the valve is called the DPS valve. One sure sign is the symptom described below and it's easy to check!

Start the car from over night cold soak. Switch on the AC and open the hood. The electric engine fan must kick on low speed regardless of the outside temperature. If it does NOT that is a strong sign pointing to a bad DPS valve. Now this gets more complicated because Jaguar's are always that way? Another sign is the AC blows cold but not all the time. Sometimes getting the engine up to temperature kicks the fans on and the AC starts cooling.

There is nothing wrong with the AC system it's the DPS valve telling it to operated incorrectly. BUT the valve can't be changed without draining the refrigerant and removing the AC compressor which is NOT a small job! Now I did find recently a Jaguar tech who could change the valve with the compressor in place but the 3 mounting bolts need to be removed to angle the compressor around to get access to the DPS valve. But it's tough and takes experience.

There are two different DPS valves and they do NOT interchange. As I found out because I followed the attached Jaguar TSB as it's a known problem. Do note this is version 7!! So it took a while for Jaguar to figure this out which brings me to the next step? Plus at least for my car and serial number that TSB had the wrong DPS valve listed causing me to purchase both versions before I figured all this out!

Here is my detailed thread on AC compressor removal and a full explanation of the DPS valve differences with part numbers and prices.
AC Compressor Removal

But what's most important is after all the hard work I did to remove and replace the DPS valve it still did not work 100% right? So in the end I replaced the entire compressor which comes with the correct DPS valve AND it has a warranty for the entire assembly! Plus the OEM Sanden compressors are only around $300-$350. It's just as much work to change the whole thing out as to screw around changing DPS valves. Unless your under warranty and the dealer wants to replace the DPS first.
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