Is that passenger side in a LHD or RHD? Or is it fitted depending on the D side?

 

Definitely passenger side on a LHD.

 

Hello All

Sorry to revive such an old thread.

I'm UK based and having lots of bizarre issues with my car, Alarm going off randomly, engine cutting out when stationary, warning lights on the dash etc. and I think it may be CJB related.

I've removed the passenger footwell door and have access to the fuse box but I can't see anywhere to disconnect it.

Any guidance would be much appreciated. Car is a 2014 R coupe.

Thanks
David

 

No.1 place to start is battery to ensure it's fully charged, good capacity etc Thatvcan cause a host of issues. Would check alternator too if you have issues driving. Should be high 12.7V or so with engine off and 14+V when running

No.2 look on the menus to see what has triggered the last alarm. Might give you a clue

No.3 - your symptoms sound like a poor grounding wire. Check battery terminal connections are clean, no corrosion, properly connected and tight. Follow the black wire from battery to the chassis and ensure that connection is clean and tight too

Did you pull codes? Post up what it says.

 

Thanks for the reply.

I replaced with a brand new battery the other day as I thought that might be a good place to start given that I believe the old one was an original. No improvement unfortunately.

The last alarm trigger shows as 'start attempt'. When driving the car does on occasion say that the 'engine start/stop button is being pressed'. I can only assume this is related?

The engine systems warning light is illuminated but there are no codes!

David

 

My money would be on a grounding wire, too. Among the worst faults to diagnose ....

 

Charge the new battery. It will probably not solve your issue, but most new batteries do not come fully charged. These vehicles are very sensitive to battery issues.

 

I have experience this a couple of times. It's always a grounding issue with my f-type.

 

I decided to try the Torque app today for the first time and the exact same thing OP described happened to me too. I followed Cambo's instructions and initially added the "atsp6\natsh7e0" config string to Torque, but it told me it failed to connect to the ECU. After removing the string, everything worked great... for a while.

After driving for maybe 20 minutes, I suddenly got a warning about a blind spot monitoring system failure, which I found strange, but everything else seemed fine, so I continued driving. When I exited the highway I noticed the steering was abnormally heavy like I had lost power steering. I stopped at a gas station, pressed the P button on the shifter and turned off the car, and immediately got another warning about shifting to N before starting. At that point I unplugged I had been using for years with other cars and tried to turn on the car again, but the start button was unresponsive. After I pressed it several times, it showed me a warning about the key fob not being present. I couldn't get it to recognize the fob despite multiple attempts. When I opened the door, the window didn't lower automatically as it should, and the door handle didn't pop out. I also couldn't open the trunk, but the car definitely still had power since the key fob warning was reproducible. Everything else seemed dead though.

My first thought was to disconnect the battery to reset the computers, but since I couldn't open the trunk, I decided to first see if the iCarSoft code reader I keep in the car could tell me anything. I used the Diagnostics tool to scan the codes, and it didn't find anything in the modules that were online. It obviously couldn't read the PCM or the TCM as the car couldn't be turned on. I then tried the reader's OBD-II Check tool and while it was doing a protocol scan, the car suddenly came back to life with both windows lowering at the same time, and the dashboard lit up. I could then switch the car to accessory mode by pressing the start button. When I rescanned the PCM, there was a code about a communication error on the medium speed CAN bus and a few other communication failures. I cleared the codes, the car started normally, and I had zero issues for the rest of the trip.

So.. I think I won't be using this adapter again on the F-Type. Does anyone have recommendations for a reliable Bluetooth ELM327 adapter that won't randomly brick the car...?

 

@samit sorry that happened to you.

But the fact that it was similar @djyankees31 experience means we should consider a potential link between Torque Pro and the custom PID query sending some data the ECU doesn't like.

I don't think it's the OBD2 adapter, because it actually saved you in this situation when you used its own check tool.

I could never get those custom PIDs to work so I guess I am lucky.

 

It was actually my iCarSoft LR v2.0 reader that managed to reset the system, not the Bluetooth ELM327 dongle that I used with Torque. Sorry if I was unclear about that. I don't think the custom PIDs should be the issue like Cambo explained earlier, but it does seem likely that the cheap ELM327 adapter ended up sending something to the medium speed CAN bus that caused one or more of the car's modules to shut down. I suppose it's also possible that the Torque app sends different commands than other OBD2 readers, and that ended up triggering this.

 

Ah OK, I understand. I have the iCarSoft LR unit in my trunk too, so it is good to know it can revive the ECU.

Was this the first time using that particular OBD2 dongle in your F-Type?

 

I also used to keep it in the trunk, but luckily this time I had it in the storage compartment between the seats. I wonder if I could have even opened the glove box in this state since all the other electric latches were dead...

A few years ago I used it to read the codes using another OBD2 app without any issues, but I've never used it for continuous data monitoring before.