Attention!! Please be very careful with the way you mount these because if you allow the terminals to come in contact with the metal frame, it will instantly fry the coils.

OK, well you don’t need me to talk your ear off and the title pretty much sums it up.

Please use safety glasses and gloves. You can easily go blind messing around with this stuff and your hands will thank you for the gloves..
Trust me lol.

Measure everything. If you try to position this speaker just a little bit too much left or a little bit too much to the right, it will hit the existing cut out behind the seat. It has to be centered, almost perfectly. You have just a few inches to play with.

I didn’t like the idea of paying someone $800 to work out a fiberglass frame for me so I decided to make a custom housing out of 1/8 inch aluminum myself. You’re going to need a grinder, a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade, Dynamat, closed cell foam (1/4 & 3/4”, a crap ton of patience, some thin cardboard, (a marker if you want) and a razor to cut out the template and oh, by the way, did I mention a crap load of patience?
Because you’re really going to freaking need it.

remove the plastic bracket that comes with the car speakers and junk it, take the small speaker off the top of it.

To any who wish to tread this path, I cannot stress this enough, take your time with the template. Make it perfect. Do not rush anything, be meticulous in every step because one mistake on aluminum can be very detrimental.

Anyway, just thought I’d show people that you can actually fit 8 inch subwoofers in the existing housing of this car. Yeah, you can do it.
Cheers.

 

And how does it sound?

 

Very nice, and well documented. You did a great job cleaning up the blood.

 

Sounds great. Dam shot better than 6s lol.
I had 6s and returned them.
The trick is really nailing down every single air leak. If you don’t do that, it’s going to sound like trash. Also, Accu base helps with a good Amp.
using an Audiocontrol LC 1.800.

 

lol thank you… Bro, if I showed you my hands…. So much blood 😂

 

Bravo on some nice fabrication! Any rattles from the rear when turned up?

 

Thank you very much buddy.
A tiny bit but I just got it put together today so I am sure I’ll hunt that down but nothing detrimental.
Nothing you can really hear to be honest.

 

In case anybody was wondering how they sound, here’s a short clip of how they sound. Speakers only have four hours of break in time so the volume is not high.

 

Outstanding!

If you want to replace those smaller rear speakers above the SWs it's a nice upgrade to get some rear fill. I have Audison Voce AV 3.0 that fit perfectly into the square housing.

I like rear speakers because of the way the auditory canal is angled - it's a straight shot to the tympanic membrane in the small cabin space of the F-Type.

 

I was actually looking into that but I had no idea what they were..lol
Thank you.

 

This is outstanding. The stock flimsy plastic speaker mounts make any driver completely useless. I’m surprised people bother with driver upgrades in this location without addressing the mounting and baffle situation.

Seems like another more involved solution would be to replace the entire rear behind-the seat plastic trim panel (or at least the speaker grille portion) with a piece of stiff aluminum sheet (and cover that with thin carpet or some such) and then mount the woofers from the front. The new panel could be secured to standoffs at the original speaker mount tab locations.

 

it worked out very well, but one thing I’m noticing is that I wish I had tried tapping into the mid bass speakers in the doors. The signal does not seem great from the rear subwoofers. I think I’m going to try that and see how it works out.

PLEASE NOTE!!!!!

Be extremely careful how you mount the speakers back there. If the terminals from your subwoofers touch the metal frame, you will ground out the speaker and instantly fry the coil. Speaking from experience…… Woops..

this just happened to me when I was messing around with stuff. I wish I could edit the OP, but I can’t anymore.

 

@B15hop Great tips, thanks. Bummer about the toasted SW. Do you think instead of aluminum one could use some hard plastic board (like HDPE) to frame the speakers and seal the space? This would cut down on hand trauma, metal cutting, and potential electrical shorts.

I am not sure which speaker output provides a full range signal down to ~ 20 Hz, but I think it is time to consider adding a DSP to your system. You can't go wrong with anything by Audiotec Fischer (like a MATCH UP 10). You can analyze all your input signals and manipulate them (as well as output). You could also use those rear speakers to provide fill and your center speaker as well. The ATF PC Tool makes it easy to do.

All this fabrication is inspiring - I have been watching this YT channel and enjoying the Adam Rose reactions and ASMR...





https://www.youtube.com/@ConstructionSmart

 

lol that guy is great. But I’m absolutely certain it’s better to tap into the mid bass door speakers. Personally tested it. The custom aluminum frame isn’t what was causing me problems. The terminals were hitting the side walls in the OEM space behind the speaker and that’s what was giving me issues.

Important lesson I learned was to rotate the speakers 45 or 90° to make terminals be at the top and bottom or offset, but not directly at the sides.

But yeah, hard plastic or even wood would probably work as well, but it might not be as stable unless you go thicker which poses some issues when trying to fit the OEM panels back in place. It’s doable for sure. It would have to be a lot thicker.

Glad you are enjoying the work though.
Thank you. 😁👍