Jahummer any update?
Have you been able to remove the pipes yet?
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In preparing to do the 10 year service on my 2014 F Type V8 S, I purchased the Euro AMP Aluminum Y Pipes and Rear crossover pipes but not the whole kit. In talking it over with my very trusted independent mechanic, he does not like their quality of O-Rings, Gaskets or Water Pumps, and wanted to use Jaguar OEM Parts and after reading all the post and his own experience with O-Ring leaks and Euro AMP Parts I have to agree with him. The cast Aluminum Y Pipes are very soft Aluminum and can be easily damaged if you're not very careful. They are are also not chamfered or debbured in any way, so they have very sharp edges and burrs, which can cut O-Rings. I carefully chamfered and deburred the pipes before giving them to my mechanic.

After he did the install during the pressure test, which it failed. He saw coolant pooling up on the flange which he thought was a leaking O-Ring. So he pulled the pipe out and replaced the O-Ring, reinstalled it and it failed again! This time he crawled in there and watched it very closely while it was pressurized and saw it weeping out of a pinhole leak in the casting right above the flange. He pulled the Y Pipe out again and looked inside with a dental mirror and found a sizable pit right where it was leaking, so this was a BAD casting. So it looks like Euro AMP doesn't do any quality control testing on their parts.

My Mechanic also found that my water pump was starting to weep, not leak but just weep. So replaced that too.
Waiting to see if Euro AMP will refund me any of my cost? And cost me way more that the cost of this kit.

I just wanted to share my experience with the Euro AMP parts. If you get good ones, I'm sure they are better than Plastic but it was an expensive up grade for me because of faulty parts from Euro AMP.

Wayne B.

 

Whenever I get around to doing mine, I'm going to try the newer Jaguar aluminum pipes.

 

Our EuroAMP parts have been fine.

They sent the wrong thermostat housing for our early '14, so our indie tech installed an OEM part to save time, rather than wait for a replacement. Now, the OEM 'stat takes twice as long to warm up the engine (though it does reach and maintain the proper coolant temperature eventually).

Good Practice: pressure testing the cooling system after a procedure of this kind.

 

I was early adopter of the aluminum pipes and have had no problems. Did not use their water pump and my indie dealt with oring.

 

Thanks for sharing your experience, Wayne! I installed my EuroAMP pipes four years ago and also had no issues. I've also been running their water pump since then and it's been solid. It's a shame that they keep having quality control issues nowadays. I would definitely go with the JLR pipes now too if I had to do this again.

Speaking of OEM parts, my second stamped plastic rear coolant crossover pipe appears to be seeping again, and I'm considering replacing it with the EuroAMP metal part. Hopefully that one doesn't have similar quality issues.

Btw Wayne, there are never too many trustworthy Jaguar mechanics around, so if you're comfortable sharing your mechanic's name, I'm sure a lot of Northern California Jag owners would appreciate it.

 

A quick follow up, Euro AMP did give me a partial refund for the leaking Y Pipe and cost of the new Y Pipe that I had to buy but , that did not come close to covering cost of the additional man hours to find and replace their leaking Y Pipe. And as CarBuff2 says make sure you do a pressure test any time you do cooling system work, BEFORE you but the supercharger back on, I am so glad I had my trusted shop doing this work instead of me because I don't have a pressure testing kit and I would have just resembled the everything, only to fine the leak later and then I would have been REALLY PISSED.

Also the weeping water pump was the original 10 year old Jaguar OEM pump not a Euro AMP pump.

My mechanic is Sheik Bacchus at https://www.bacchusbritish.com/ in Dublin CA. They specialize in Jags and Land Rovers and have been in business for many years because they're very good and they don't try to pad your bill.
I can't work on my cars like I used to any more because of age and health reasons. But I trust Sheik enough to give him my car and tell him to do what ever it needs. He has been working on my car for many years and really knows my car and I am totally please with his work.


Question, Has any one actually been able to find and buy the Jaguar OEM Aluminum Y Pipes? Real ones not off E Bay or some other Chinese web site?

 

I ordered a set, Had my dealer install, only to find out I had a leak in the seam. I went back to the plastic verson.

 

I've patched similar pinhole leaks using aluminum brazing rods. It's sometimes the only option as parts eventually become discontinued.

 

Okay everyone. I've finally gotten to doing a major engine service (ALL hoses again, valve covers, injectors, etc).

I in fact did figure out a way to get to the notorious rear screw. As I've mentioned AND shown previously I was not able to reach the screw with the supercharger and related parts in place, torx bits would not fit in the tiny space and the angle's all wrong. However if you remove the fuel rail crossover and the intercoolers. a long thin torx bit will reach the screw allowing you to remove it. BUT the supercharger snout is still in the way of the pipe removal. IF you remove the water pump it's still extremely challenging to maneuver and twist an aluminum crossover to line up in the holes in such a small tight space. But it can be done.

My thoughts on this are it's "coo"l that it can be done but in my experience it's more difficult and risky to take this short cut and really makes no sense to not do it the correct way per JLR, it saves little to no labour time plus there's other things that should be serviced at the same time which require the removal of the supercharger any way.

 

Me too. However I used all the kit supplied excluding a brass screw as couldn't find a home for it. Having access to both imperial and metric o-ring sizes meant fitting the right one as the one supplied by EuroAmp was to large.

 

Interesting, did you buy the parts or did your mechanic supply them? If you bought them, could you provide a link to a UK supplier or EuroAmp? Also, how many miles ago did you have it done?

Thank you.

 

I bought direct from EuroAmp in June 2022 & paid the Custom's piper for the privilege. Tom Lenthall (JLR specialist) fitted the kit end of Feb 2023 and since fitting, I've driven 5k miles - the car is only a summer toy (8 months of the year).
Every SORN, I perform the work to get it ready for the following driving year.

 

Thank you very much jahummer! I knew you would get back to this and figure it out. I had always planned on removing the SC anyway but was still interested in how it was done otherwise.

MaxD I think the brass screw your talking about goes to replace the factory plastic version on the passenger side of the engine on a heater hose. It's the heater air bleed screw.
Here it is on the heater hose.





Here it is on the passenger side of the engine. A bit hard to see because everything is black so it does not stand out.





I have the brass version on my bench and have not swapped it out yet.
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That's the feller. I have no idea where the brass screw is other than I put it in a box which is either in the loft or garage. Not something I'll worry about unless I come across it whilst searching for something else.

 

Well I am in a similar situation. Not against swapping it out but so far it has not caused any problems. Maybe leave sleeping dogs lie!
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I've been quite regular replacing this screw every 1-2 years, primarly after having the original crumble. I've had the brass versions for a while but never fitted. A few weeks ago though, after 30 minutes of driving, steam began pouring from under the bonnet and upon lifting it, was greeted by a geyser of coolant. Found the head of the screw in the compartment, the threaded bit still in place. After removing the remains, promptly fitted the brass version. I'd not hesitate if I were you...

 

Understood!
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Would this be the right shopping cart for the job if I want to go OEM? I the pipes are these "new" jaguar aluminium ones, but I am not sure if anybody actually put them into V6 F-type yet...

 

I wonder where mine is...

It looks correct to me. In my opinion, I would use the aluminium version of the C2Z18658 if you're replacing the plastic pipes with aluminium (LR186859 & LR186917) - it's between the arms of the "Y" pipe.