Hey now, don't go bringing me into this mess!

I can't speak specifically to the pirellis on this car, but I had them briefly on my STR and didn't like them at all and went right back to the pilot sports I had been using for years. The michelins are my go to tire. Although I have some BFG's on my plymouth that get really good traction, at least in a straight line. It doesn't do very much cornering

 

We can't be more than a few miles form each other.

The door sills, it may be that someone added them and never plugged them in. It's a little bit of a pain.

 

The optional spoiler comes with a module that plugs in to the harness when you unplug the spoiler lifting motor.
TheRock88 has a pdf on the various options to disable the spoiler.

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...-wing-info.pdf

Found it 👍

 

Doesn't it always?

 

Per the window sticker the sills were a factory option. They are plugged in! I know because it worked a single time when I changed the setting, "Stealth Mode" from "On" to "Off". I thought I had the issue solved but, next day when I opened the doors the illumination was not working again.

Where are you? I am in Pilot Hill, right along Hwy 49.

 

It seems that I finally figured out the threadplate lights. Now they are working but, who knows about tomorrow....

The solution seems to be the setting of the interior lights. My interior lights were set to be off on door opening. Not sure why? To change it to be ON when the doors open, you have to touch and hold the center light on the overhead console until the message appears between the speedometer and the tach, saying: AUTO. With that, not only my interior lights come on when opening the door but, also the threadplate light. All those lights go out automatically in 60 seconds on door closing or, immediately as the car is locked.

Garage door opener is still fighting me...

Question: Does the 2017 F-type (or other late models) still have battery issues or, have they been eliminated? My latest Jaguars were the 2012 XJL and XF and at that time when a door was opened all onboard computers were awakened, pulling a measured (by me) 15 Amps. Because of that, I remember, at the local Jag dealerships they either had signs on the car windows NOT TO OPEN the doors, or had extension power cords to the cars to keep charging the batteries. I hope that issue has been eliminated...???

 

Jag battery problems have most definitely NOT been eliminated, literally hundreds of threads and posts on this forum about battery problems.
The simplest solution is:

1. Reset the system by disconnecting the battery for a minute or so. You only need to unbolt the end of earth/ground lead (which runs from the negative battery terminal to a bolt on the trunk/boot floor) and hold it up out the way, no need to stuff about with the main battery terminals or cables.
2. Reconnect the earth cable then fully charge the battery by leaving it overnight on a battery tender. CTEK is a quality and popular brand.
3. If you don't take the car for regular long runs hook it up to the CTEK once a fortnight or so to keep the battery healthy.
4. Watch out for OBD2 devices causing the system not to shut down fully and resulting in a flat battery.

I have been doing this from day 1 on a nearly six year old battery and I have never had a single battery or electrical system problem.

 

The garage door opener needs a bridge. My opener was new and got one for free but they are cheap on Ebay. I never installed the bridge as I got used to the old style remote.

 

Remembering my Jaguar days, I did learn to live with the poor battery management system. On my 2012 XJL my search for the problem led me to the "Infotainment Module" that occasionally failed shot-down while continuing pulling 4 Amps from the battery. A couple of days of that and you have a dead battery. Finally a factory recall fixed that issue. Right now the car is in my garage hooked up to a CTEK. So are all my cars that do not get daily or regular use.

Just discovered an other "minor" issue yesterday as I keep going over the car since my purchase a week ago. The car has the factory wheel lock option but, came without the lock key. Looks like I have to call the dealer Monday and may have to make the 2 hours roundtrip drive to get them removed and get either a new key ordered or just go without the locks. Probably will go without the locks as I hardly ever leave the car parked in public places.

Do you know how much $$$ and how to purchase that "adapter" that plugs into the spoiler connector and makes the system think that the spoiler is working? You made a very helpful writeup on disabling that ugly thing but, I still want to make sure that I am not compromising the full performance capabilities of the car by having a limited top speed. Probably will never go over 135 MPH although I had come very-very close to that during the drive up from LA... Just had to test the car... Interestingly, like I posted above, for the first 200 miles of the drive the spoiler did not deploy even though I kept the average speeds at 80 and did that one test sprint to way over that. Why didn't the spoiler deploy and why did it suddenly started working after that 200, or so, miles?

I also see that you use the 15mm wheel spacers. Who did you buy them from? That is something I installed on all my past XKs and XKR. Car looks better with them. I know that I will have to trim the studs. Done them before so not an issue.

Thanks for the advice. Since this car is a "garage queen" that will only be used occasionally for pleasure driving, I think I can live with the old style remote, as well.

 

Not sure if you can buy it separately but it is the module with the green and white sticker.

 

Sorry, can't help you with the spoiler "adapter" but I suspect like many Jag parts it's not available separately and you would have to buy the whole spoiler = big $.

The last set of spacers I bought were Teeze, see here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3274...2-c19820e34402

They might be "cheap Chinese" but they are perfectly good quality and have never given me any problems.
The only problem you might face is waiting forever for the very slow boat from China!

With the wheel studs you won't need to trim them if you have Blade wheels but any other wheels and you will.

 

Lowpass is absolutely correct. I had a serious challenge syncing the opener until I figured it was functioning fine. I just wasn’t holding the mirror button long enough. Most openers require just a momentary contact. Of course if the opener is not compatible with the garage door, you’ll need the bridge.

 

I installed new chamberlain belt drive openers on my doors and had zero trouble setting up the f-type- although the remote app for their products are terrible. I was literally standing inside the garage with the door open and the app telling me it was closed. One tip though, be mindful of things blocking the signal - sometimes the opener doesn’t respond when I’m close but may have an obstruction so moving the car around a bit to sync it may help.