I wish everyone a meaningful Memorial Day.

I plan to get my car out from the automotive storage facility in a few days time. The previous owner always had the car oil change by the JLR auto dealer in Paramus, NJ. I asked him why the dealer? He said it was out of convenience.
I will not bring the car to a dealer.
Will you please tell me the best options/choices for choosing a motor oil for the engine. Would it be Liqi Molly oil ?
Would a 0W-40 weight oil be okay for use due to the engine getting hot from the blower?
Thank you kindly.

 

Nothing wrong with using the OEM oil, retailers can use anything that meets the specs, most use Castrol. I am a fan of their oil in general anyway, I've used it in many of my cars over the years in many flavors, from 0-20 to 15-50 at times.

It's more important to change the oil regularly, than to run a certain oil. You could use a very 'cheap' oil with a **** additive package, but change it every 3000 miles before the chemicals fade out, and never have issues. The OEM stuff is designed to work hard and last 15k miles, I would only go about half that on any of my personal cars but again, any good oil will be just fine at a reasonable interval. Good OEM quality filter is also as important, doesn't have to be from JLR but get a good one.

 

0-20 is the spec and it’s easily obtainable. I buy LiquiMoly 0-20 LR from Amazon. I buy JLR filters 4 at a time from my local dealer. The parts manager gives me the Harper Jaguar price. I run a 5,000 mile interval. With the air driven oil extractor it takes 6 minutes to change the oil and filter.

 

Wow it has been a minute since we have seen an oil thread!

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/jag...0aAnupEALw_wcB

Specifically this Liqui-Moly (STJLR.51.5122) is a solid choice and easy to find. The OEM stuff is a bit harder to track down. Get a Mityvac oil extractor and do the oil changes yourself, super convenient.

 

+1 on the LiquiMoly 0W-20 and MityVac. You extract the oil from the top of the engine. Filter is right there too. Dead easy, and no mess. I do changes 2x per year.

 

An important part of the Jaguar oil's specification is proper lubrication of the timing chain.

As RoverJoe said, it is more important to change the oil on a regular basis.
It is also important to DRIVE THE CAR for 45 minutes or longer, periodically, to reduce condensation and fuel dilution in the oil. It's a tough job, but SOMEBODY has to do it!

I'm using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum which currently has a rebate in effect for purchases.

https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/promo...carryForward=1

 

Thank you guys.
one more question, how much oil does it take? Is it 6.5 quarts of oil ?

 

Assuming you have an R, as noted in your profile, 6.9 quarts (6.5l). The AWD has a smaller oil pan than the RWD.

 

Depends on which motor and whether or not you have AWD.

 

Yes.... yes.....
it's a 2017 model. F TYPE R AWD.

 

You left out the best part of buying oil and filters at FCPEuro. If you send back the old oil and filter to them they credit you for the full purchase price on your next order. I know it does sound unbelievable. I was skeptical as well. I just did my second oil change and they credited me the entire purchase price on my next one. Details are in the thread below.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...ia-rma-284548/

 

go to walmart and get 0-20 5 quart jugg of oil and a single quart, $30 and your done, no need for any fancy oil, the secret is 3-5000 mile changes
will keep your engine running for a lifetime, and coolant pipes to metal upgrade

 

I know, I live 30 minutes from them and drive up there with my oil Figured I wouldn't mention it because some folks may just not want to mail their oil in. You do have to buy a kit first, and then do a "return" on that oil and you get a credit for your second kit and so on.

As Dennis and others have said before, changing the oil frequently is the most important thing. I change every 4-5k or once a year (usually it is the latter, last year only drove 3700 miles... sad I know).

Btw just learned a new thing - checking the oil after an oil change (or other times) is a real pain. It won't want to give you a reading unless the engine gets up to a certain operating temperature, and then shut the car off and let it sit for at least 10 minutes. Found out, if you want to shorten that a bit, i.e. warm it up for a few minutes, then shut it off and let the oil drain for a minute or two, you can still get a reading- when it refuses, hit cruise cancel button on the steering wheel twice and it will give you the reading caveat, you still should warm up your oil some, and give it time to drain back into the crankcase, otherwise it may read low.

 

I appreciate the replies. Does anyone bump up to a heavier weight oil to heat with the engine heating up from the blower or is it best just to stay with 0W-20 weight due to the tight tolerances of the motor.

 

Do you think the oil specification was based on the engine without the supercharger, and adding it causes something extra that the manufacturer isn't aware of?