Years ago, there was discussion of the JLR-spec oil having a higher titanium content and lower molybdenum content than other oil. Whether there’s a reason for that, I wouldn’t know. But oil analysis seemed to imply it’s different.

 

I remember that discussion as I was part of it.
IIRC, the reason JLR gave for specifying high titanium and low moly oil was that high moly did not play nice with the AJ133 and AJ126 cat converters whilst high titanium had no such problem.
I believe I called BS on this, mainly because there is/was nothing special or unusual about the JLR cats, plenty of other car manufacturers use much the same cats and they don't seem to have the same titanium vs moly issues.
I also believe as ER9240 opines, it's mainly a marketing ploy by JLR to support sales of the special (often Unobtainium) high titanium Castrol brew.

Edit - forgot to add - I have never used Castrol oil in either my 2010 XFR or 2014 F-Type, let alone their special high titanium/low moly brew, instead I have used high moly/low titanium brews from Nulon, Penrite and Valvoline and have never had an oil related problem. No criticism of Castrol intended, they make good oils, it's just that IMHO there is zero reason to use only Castrol in an AJ133 or AJ126 engine.

 

Compared the packaging of the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum we bought this year on sale at Walmart, VS the jugs we bought from W-M in 2025.

Yes, the references to being "made from Natural Gas' have been deleted.

The specifications seem to be the updated ones shown on the Castrol bottles in Post 38.

++++++++++++++

RoverJoe's notation about using the bulk oil purchased from dealer are telling (post 35). I always get a kick out of owners spending more for a manufacturer's brand of oil, when the bulk oil used by dealers is probably more generic!

 

Hello everyone....
I am still trying to figure out which motor oil will be best for the 5 liter supercharger engine.

I got this answer from Google. Three choices of group 4 and group 5 class motor oil. I personally don't want to put group 3 class oul into the engine. The motor only has 11,000 miles on the clock.

Will you please tell me and share your thoughts and opinions for the three oil brands.
Lasty, why isn't anyone here on the message board using any of the three motor oils.
Thank you for the advice!


AMSOIL (Best for Longevity & Daily Driving)AMSOIL is widely regarded as the top choice for passenger vehicles and daily drivers.

Key Strength: Exceptional Total Base Number (TBN) retention, which neutralizes engine acids and allows for extended drain intervals (up to 25,000 miles or one year on flagship formulas).
Best For: Commuters and enthusiasts seeking maximum wear protection without changing their oil every 5,000 miles.

Red Line (Best for Extreme Heat & Racing)Red Line uses a unique Polyol Ester (POE) base stock, which is the same technology used in jet turbine engines.
Key Strength: Unmatched shear stability and the ability to cling to metal parts under extreme heat and high RPMs.Best For: Heavily modified (tuned) engines, dedicated track cars, and vehicles frequently subjected to extreme loads.

Motul (Best for Motorcycles & European Performance) Motul is famous in the powersports and European automotive world, particularly for its 300V ester-based racing line.
Key Strength: High-revving engine performance and specialized gearbox/clutch compatibility (especially for motorcycles).Best For: Sportbikes, dirt bikes, and track cars where manufacturer-specific European approvals (like Porsche, BMW, or VW) are strictly required. Motul 8100 and 300V Series.

Summary: Recommendation
If you want the absolute longest protection for a street-driven car, go with AMSOIL. If you are building a race car or running a turbocharger in extreme conditions, choose Red Line. If you are riding a motorcycle or need specialized OEM specs, go with Motul.

 

Seriously? I don't understand the business model there I mean I am sure they are recycling the oil and getting compensated somewhere for it but seems crazy. For they cover return shipping or is that onus on us?

 

Return shipping is on your dime. If I get a third party UPS label it is under $25 for me.

 

I think you are way over thinking this. As long as you get an oil that meets the JLR spec for your engine and change it anywhere from 5K - 8K miles you will be fine. Trying to get a consensus on which oil is best is never going to happen. There are too many oils to choose from and too many opinions to go along with all those choices.