Brake fluid change for home mechanic?
Just got my F type V6S out of storage and it could use a brake fluid change. This is typically a reasonably easy job for a home mechanic on most cars. Any reason I should not try this at home? Searched for threads but couldn't find one.
Nothing special here. If you have bled brakes before, it would be the same essentially. If you have a power bleeder, connect it, and start with rear right, then rear left, then front right, then front left (farthest to closest to reservoir), and keep the fluid full. Note the F-Type does use DOT4 Low Viscosity fluid so get the right spec.. Pump until you see clear fluid replacing the dirty fluid at each caliper. Best to connect a clear piece of tubing to the bleeder, to see what is coming out. Put the other end into a container with some brake fluid in it and watch for bubble to cease also. Should flush brake fluid every two years as a rule, since it is Hygroscopic and absorbs moisture.
I have also attached instructions below for bleeding/flushing brakes on F-Types.
Good luck
DC
I have also attached instructions below for bleeding/flushing brakes on F-Types.
Good luck
DC
Last edited by Therock88; Mar 31, 2020 at 09:02 AM.
Pay attention to the CAUTION notes in that attached procedure. Wear rubber gloves and eye protection. Have a roll of paper towels at the ready. Keep the cap on the bottle of brake fluid when you're not pouring it in the reservoir.
Have a friend or significant other operate the brake pedal.
Have a friend or significant other operate the brake pedal.
Read the information on the F-TYPE brake bleeding.
Does the EPB need to be off or on ?
Can the rear brakes be vacuum bled?
Any help greatly appreciated.
Does the EPB need to be off or on ?
Can the rear brakes be vacuum bled?
Any help greatly appreciated.
I used this to suck out the fluid:
Last edited by RGPV6S; Sep 26, 2020 at 01:47 PM.
Just did mine. I disengaged the EPB . I used clear tubing with a bottle with ~ 3" of fluid. Had a friend work the pedal while I worked the bleeders( RR, LR, RF and LF). Make sure you suck all of the old fluid out of the reservoir before starting the bleed/flush procedure. I used Pentosin DOT4 LV fluid.
I used this to suck out the fluid:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-17282-F...32&sr=8-5&th=1
I used this to suck out the fluid:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-17282-F...32&sr=8-5&th=1
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BTW. While I had the car up on the jacks changed the differential oil too.
Last edited by RGPV6S; Sep 26, 2020 at 02:50 PM.
Here’s info on the EPB, including how to put it in maintenance mode...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/uajlxghl1a...brake.pdf?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/uajlxghl1a...brake.pdf?dl=0
If you are conscientious about changing your brake fluid every 2 or 3 years, I see no compelling reason why anyone would need to put the motorized EPB into maintenance mode just to flush fluid. I didn't when we got our F and changed the fluid (4 years old and no records indicating that it was ever done).
Don't know about JLR, but some makers' dealerships have diagnostic tools that can actuate the ABS pump during a bleed. The Rock's procedure doesn't mention anything like that.
After a while, all the fluid mixes and blends together anyway (hence the warning that some fluids are incompatible).
Don't know about JLR, but some makers' dealerships have diagnostic tools that can actuate the ABS pump during a bleed. The Rock's procedure doesn't mention anything like that.
After a while, all the fluid mixes and blends together anyway (hence the warning that some fluids are incompatible).
If you are conscientious about changing your brake fluid every 2 or 3 years, I see no compelling reason why anyone would need to put the motorized EPB into maintenance mode just to flush fluid. I didn't when we got our F and changed the fluid (4 years old and no records indicating that it was ever done).
Also, I couldn't find anywhere what the correct size wrench for the bleeder valve was, so if anyone else is wondering, it's 11mm. Just don't make the same mistake I did and buy one of these bleeder wrenches. While they work great for the rear brakes, there not enough room in the front, at least with the bigger front brakes:
I ended up buying a set of flare nut wrenches instead.
I miss the ATE super blue fluid they outlawed in the US, that made it so easy to determine when the new fluid was coming through. You alternate the ATE super blue with the regular ATE. The power bleeder is the best money spent. Go for it.
If you are conscientious about changing your brake fluid every 2 or 3 years, I see no compelling reason why anyone would need to put the motorized EPB into maintenance mode just to flush fluid. I didn't when we got our F and changed the fluid (4 years old and no records indicating that it was ever done).
Don't know about JLR, but some makers' dealerships have diagnostic tools that can actuate the ABS pump during a bleed. The Rock's procedure doesn't mention anything like that.
After a while, all the fluid mixes and blends together anyway (hence the warning that some fluids are incompatible).
Don't know about JLR, but some makers' dealerships have diagnostic tools that can actuate the ABS pump during a bleed. The Rock's procedure doesn't mention anything like that.
After a while, all the fluid mixes and blends together anyway (hence the warning that some fluids are incompatible).
Went about the procedure without any issue,EPB off.
Huge +1
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