I had the brake fluid replaced at Grange Jaguar, Brentwood, United Kingdom. It’s a Jaguar F-type 2014, with 22000 miles, with carbon ceramic brakes.

The front right exterior calliper bleeder screw broke. They used the interior calliper bleeder to get the old brake fluid out.

The broken screw inside the calliper still seals and no brake fluid is coming out.

Is it a most to get this calliper repaired or replaced?

Any recommendations where I can get it repaired? There are tons of information online how to repair it, but I would prefer to have it done by an expert.

Thank you so much in advance for any help

 

Seems to me its the dealers issue to deal with because they broke it bleeding the brakes if I understand your post correctly.

 

Yes 100% correct. The dealer broke the bleeder screw. Trying to get my head around if there is a standard practice that needs to be followed to avoid breaking the bleeder screw, or if this is a common hazard of the trade. Do not want to start a claim with the dealer without first researching if this is the dealers fault, or just an unavoidable issue.
Thanks for your repply.

 

The bleed screws are stuck under the car in the firing line for all sorts of weather and muck, so seized bleed nipples aren’t unusual. It’s pretty common and almost expected on Boxsters.

If the service schedule has been followed, then the fluid should have been changed every 2 years which would hopefully limit the amount of corrosion build-up, but if it’s missed the last change that’s 4 years without any attention. And if it has been done it might depend on how careful the last Tech was - a little preventative squirt of WD40 before the rubber cap goes back on goes a long way.

I’ve got absolutely no time for the Service team at Grange Brentwood, but even so I think it’s one of those things. With a FSH I’d try for some goodwill, but I don’t they’re strictly liable.

 

It is inexcusable for a dealer to break off a bleeder screw and not fix it no matter what the circumstance. If the mechanic was competent and was experiencing difficulty loosening the bleeder he could have used penetrating oil and or heat to break it free. They were probably too impatient to do that. Also the broken bleeder could have been removed if they really cared (but they would probably have charged you for the labor). Its not that hard using a broken screw extractor (don't ask how I know). What I can't understand is why they told you about it unless it was already snapped off by someone else during previous work.

 

To the original question: It's not doing any harm sitting there broken and still sealing, but you should get it fixed. Any competent shop should be able to manage it. I'm not sure if the bleed nipple is unusual in any way, so make sure you have the replacement on hand before getting the work done.

These can get corroded and stuck, but in my days as a professional I more frequently saw damage from overtightening. Maybe my experience would have been different in places that had salted rods and "real" winters, but the torque spec on these is quite low, and being hollow, they can be twisted in half with simple hand tools. The worst is if the last to touch it was some ham-fisted hack and it's already fractured but still in one piece. Those snap off as soon as you put a wrench on them.

 

In the F-Type repair manual it say that it is required 14 Nm of torque to tighten the bleeder screw. To loosen a screw usually 10% lees torque is required, considering no rust or other factors that could make it harder. I'm surprised there are no methods of preventing applying more than a set torque when loosening a bolt.

 

I think most people don't realize just how little 14 Nm is. My point was that someone could overtighten it and break it, but have it still be holding together. The next person to touch it gets an unpleasant surprise, and probably with far less than that 14 Nm.