When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a base F-type so my calipers came metal, I removed the caliper to paint it, but did not remove thoe whole piece from the the knuckle, only the 4 bolts needed to remove the pads. I could have done it to get the full part painted, but didn't want to waste the time and effort to pain an extra 2 inches of surface I think the finish came off pretty good. The clip does come off, its a pain to get back on, but if you have a spare set of hands its easy, took me 5 min.
I would not paint them on the car, to do it right you need to take them off and do a fair about of clean and prep. I used oven greaser and a wire brush attachment for my drill to remove all the dirt and dust.
I used s $7.99 can of high temp from Auto zone, there are better paint options, but this suited my needs.
Last edited by AllBlackFtype; May 20, 2020 at 03:13 PM.
My experience comes from painting calipers (on the car) on several Hondas, an Acura, and a Toyota over the years. (If you think that Jag calipers look bad, be glad they don't RUST as Honda ones do...)
Who remembers the Good Old Days when full wheel covers hid brakes from prying eyes?
Looks good! I did mine yesterday after having the wheels powder coated gloss black. Where did you find the vinyl decal? I can't find an appropriately sized set anywhere, let alone a set with the new style lettering.
I for one would never use scissor jacks to hold the whole weight of the car, especially not the OEM one supplied with the car.
IMHO they are too weak and prone to collapse.
Some 10 years ago I jacked up the rear of my car (not a Jag) to guess what, paint the rear calipers, in a quite narrow brick garage.
I used the OEM scissor jack and a spare I had of the exact same design.
It was only about a minute after I got the wheels off that one side collapsed and fell against the brick wall, I was very lucky that I was on the other side of the car when that happened otherwise I may not have been here to tell the tale.
Massive dent and paint scrape in the rear fender, and the car was wedged tight against the wall.
It took me over two hours to get that side of the car back up in the air again, the wheels on and the car away from the wall, I reckon it took a 200 point turn!
Looks good! I did mine yesterday after having the wheels powder coated gloss black. Where did you find the vinyl decal? I can't find an appropriately sized set anywhere, let alone a set with the new style lettering.
I got my caliper decals from here: https://thestickyscene.com/jaguar-br...rved-stickers/
Good price and top quality.
They were the only ones I could find after months of searching that were both the correct (modern) font and curved.
Pretty much identical to the OP's decals except slightly curved to match the shapes of the calipers and anti-rattle clips.
Looks good! I did mine yesterday after having the wheels powder coated gloss black. Where did you find the vinyl decal? I can't find an appropriately sized set anywhere, let alone a set with the new style lettering.
A guy on ebay. The place is called umtamed and is in florida.
The rears did not come from the factory with stickers but the set of 8, I received had 4 sizes and these fit the rears on that surface perfect.
The fronts were a little larger then the original letters which is silk screened on. I looked high and low for
something a little closer to the original size.
I do think they work and will actually show up better then the original size which is small.
I may see if the guy can make a slightly smaller version for future use if needed.
One thing I like is they are transfer and single letters not one big sticker.
I for one would never use scissor jacks to hold the whole weight of the car, especially not the OEM one supplied with the car.
IMHO they are too weak and prone to collapse.
Some 10 years ago I jacked up the rear of my car (not a Jag) to guess what, paint the rear calipers, in a quite narrow brick garage.
I used the OEM scissor jack and a spare I had of the exact same design.
It was only about a minute after I got the wheels off that one side collapsed and fell against the brick wall, I was very lucky that I was on the other side of the car when that happened otherwise I may not have been here to tell the tale.
Massive dent and paint scrape in the rear fender, and the car was wedged tight against the wall.
It took me over two hours to get that side of the car back up in the air again, the wheels on and the car away from the wall, I reckon it took a 200 point turn!
I struggled with how best to do this considering the low clearance these cars have and their lack of real definition of where the jacking points are.
The manual says there is 2 triangular indents on each side. Hard as hell to find the back spots The front triangle spots I found.. Plus the link to
another post showing where people lift their cars from shows lots of different location.
It was not my preferred method. I evenly jacked each corner up until each wheel was off the ground an inch. The jacks were barely extended 1/2 way.
BTW as a disclaimer I would never do repairs (wrenching) using just a scissor jack or multiple jacks period.
I did put blocks under the rails.
The jacks I used also had a very wide base and were rated at 1 1/2 tons each 3000 lbs x 4= 12000 lbs
The car weighs 3600 lbs if you believe what Jaguar says, so the jacks can support the weight distribution.
The car was on level hard ground and was not being worked on unless you consider spraying cleaner and
brushing,wiping then painting working on the car.
Your point was well taken and meaningful. As things do happen and will happen when working on cars
people get killed!
I struggled with how best to do this considering the low clearance these cars have and their lack of real definition of where the jacking points are.
The manual says there is 2 triangular indents on each side. Hard as hell to find the back spots The front triangle spots I found.. Plus the link to
another post showing where people lift their cars from shows lots of different location.
It was not my preferred method. I evenly jacked each corner up until each wheel was off the ground an inch. The jacks were barely extended 1/2 way.
BTW as a disclaimer I would never do repairs (wrenching) using just a scissor jack or multiple jacks period.
I did put blocks under the rails.
The jacks I used also had a very wide base and were rated at 1 1/2 tons each 3000 lbs x 4= 12000 lbs
The car weighs 3600 lbs if you believe what Jaguar says, so the jacks can support the weight distribution.
The car was on level hard ground and was not being worked on unless you consider spraying cleaner and
brushing,wiping then painting working on the car.
Your point was well taken and meaningful. As things do happen and will happen when working on cars
people get killed!
The back jacking points are easier to find than the fronts, you don't even need to locate the little triangle indentations in the sills.
About 6 or 8" in front of each rear tyre is a largish triangle shaped chassis piece/plate with three very obvious bolts sticking down from it.
The jack goes smack in the middle of those bolts.
I got my caliper decals from here: https://thestickyscene.com/jaguar-br...rved-stickers/
Good price and top quality.
They were the only ones I could find after months of searching that were both the correct (modern) font and curved.
Pretty much identical to the OP's decals except slightly curved to match the shapes of the calipers and anti-rattle clips.
Thanks. Ordered several sets in different colors and styles. Shipping to the US was very reasonable but I'm sure they'll take quite some time to get here.
Last edited by DanL; May 24, 2020 at 06:27 AM.
Reason: clarification
A guy on ebay. The place is called umtamed and is in florida.
The rears did not come from the factory with stickers but the set of 8, I received had 4 sizes and these fit the rears on that surface perfect.
The fronts were a little larger then the original letters which is silk screened on. I looked high and low for
something a little closer to the original size.
I do think they work and will actually show up better then the original size which is small.
I may see if the guy can make a slightly smaller version for future use if needed.
One thing I like is they are transfer and single letters not one big sticker.
Unfortunately, I couldn't find that seller on Ebay so I ordered from the store in the UK that OzXFR recommended.
I struggled with how best to do this considering the low clearance these cars have and their lack of real definition of where the jacking points are.
The manual says there is 2 triangular indents on each side. Hard as hell to find the back spots The front triangle spots I found.. Plus the link to
another post showing where people lift their cars from shows lots of different location.
It was not my preferred method. I evenly jacked each corner up until each wheel was off the ground an inch. The jacks were barely extended 1/2 way.
BTW as a disclaimer I would never do repairs (wrenching) using just a scissor jack or multiple jacks period.
I did put blocks under the rails.
The jacks I used also had a very wide base and were rated at 1 1/2 tons each 3000 lbs x 4= 12000 lbs
The car weighs 3600 lbs if you believe what Jaguar says, so the jacks can support the weight distribution.
The car was on level hard ground and was not being worked on unless you consider spraying cleaner and
brushing,wiping then painting working on the car.
Your point was well taken and meaningful. As things do happen and will happen when working on cars
people get killed!
This car really is a pain in the *** to jack up if doing more than just one corner thanks to the lack of a central jacking point in the front. I even struggled to jack it up using my QuickJack 5000 portable lift because of the low clearance and the plastic deflectors in front of the rear wheels. In order to reach both the front and back lift points I had to extend length of the QuickJack using 1/4"x4" stainless bar stock which I really didn't want to have to do. But it worked out in the end -- painted the calipers using G2 red caliper paint, vinyl wrapped all of the chrome trim, and had the wheels powder coated gloss black. And while it was lifted, I took the opportunity to treat the surface rust on the rear subframe parts and also discovered I have a rear diff leak (probably the pinion seal people complain about). I guess I'll be dropping off the car at the dealership this week.
Ordered my decals from brakecaliperdecals.co.uk. They had 10 different color options and numerous size choices. Delivery took only a week and they were identical in size and font of the original ones. Applied three layers of caliper clear coat for added protection.
Last edited by Portlander; May 24, 2020 at 07:04 AM.
Completed my caliper color change 2 weeks ago. Also used the G2 cailper paint but in black. Thought the orange would be too much with the Firesand and take away the interest in the rims which I had powder coated a dark metallic gray.
Completed my caliper color change 2 weeks ago. Also used the G2 cailper paint but in black. Thought the orange would be too much with the Firesand and take away the interest in the rims which I had powder coated a dark metallic gray.
Yours came out awesome. I think there is no one size fits all when it comes to things like these preferences.
I was going for the orange because I thought it would bring the attention to the wheels as well as add contrast to my car and be a little more exotic looking.
I used silver caliper decal because they accent the aluminum around the wheel. These cars are just stunning period!
