Considering a coupe and looking for some advice
I'm not confident that a $12k drop in price in less than a year is realistic, but I'm hopeful that the release of the 4 cylinder F-Type has an impact on the used car market since it lowers the price of entry, and hence increases overall F-Type sales. The downside being the Jag is less rare on the roads.
I'm with our friend intotheblue, I really wanted an R but here in Oz the price differential between an S and and R is huge, around $40 - $50k for a two or three year old example, and I simply could not afford an R. When my current S came up at a bargain price just within my budget, with nearly all the options I wanted, I jumped at it.
That's not to say I still don't lust after an R but they would need to drop another $50k before I would be tempted.
That's not to say I still don't lust after an R but they would need to drop another $50k before I would be tempted.
I'm with our friend intotheblue, I really wanted an R but here in Oz the price differential between an S and and R is huge, around $40 - $50k for a two or three year old example, and I simply could not afford an R. When my current S came up at a bargain price just within my budget, with nearly all the options I wanted, I jumped at it.
That's not to say I still don't lust after an R but they would need to drop another $50k before I would be tempted.
That's not to say I still don't lust after an R but they would need to drop another $50k before I would be tempted.
If you intend on hooning, RWD is a must.
AWD largely solves this problem, you can put down power from standstill more efficiently. BUT the car is heavier and all this weight is at the front and that compromises handling. I personally prefer RWD, even if AWD F-type is likely faster in corners and faster off the line.
RWD F-type has issues with traction, you can't go WOT from standing still. For example, last night I was returning from track day, car was still in the track mode with everything off. I was turning from side road onto highway and went too heavy on throttle. Ended up doing rolling burnout. With warm tires on a dry pavement.
If you intend on hooning, RWD is a must.
AWD largely solves this problem, you can put down power from standstill more efficiently. BUT the car is heavier and all this weight is at the front and that compromises handling. I personally prefer RWD, even if AWD F-type is likely faster in corners and faster off the line.
If you intend on hooning, RWD is a must.
AWD largely solves this problem, you can put down power from standstill more efficiently. BUT the car is heavier and all this weight is at the front and that compromises handling. I personally prefer RWD, even if AWD F-type is likely faster in corners and faster off the line.
The 0-60 numbers for the AWD look to be .1 second slower, so I guess the weight really suffers. Obviously not a big deal, but some AWD cars are significantly quicker than their RWD counterpart.
I prefer the RWD to drive, it feels much lighter at the front end though I've only driven the AWD on the track and some reviewers thought the AWD was better.
Traction isnt so much an issue in the RWD that it interferes with launch like it does in the XKR, but it will step out if you give it the beans, even in normal mode. I think they are designed to.
Traction isnt so much an issue in the RWD that it interferes with launch like it does in the XKR, but it will step out if you give it the beans, even in normal mode. I think they are designed to.
I prefer the RWD to drive, it feels much lighter at the front end though I've only driven the AWD on the track and some reviewers thought the AWD was better.
Traction isnt so much an issue in the RWD that it interferes with launch like it does in the XKR, but it will step out if you give it the beans, even in normal mode. I think they are designed to.
Traction isnt so much an issue in the RWD that it interferes with launch like it does in the XKR, but it will step out if you give it the beans, even in normal mode. I think they are designed to.
I just posted up a new thread about whether getting the 380W sound system and adding in my own 12" sub would suffice vs the 770W as that helps me stay within a better budget. Anyone have any thoughts of that here?
While I would prefer a 2016 White V6 S with Design Pack and silver wheels, if this car happens to be available in 2 months I think I'll get it. Green is tied for my 2nd fave color, unique interior color, has all the other options I want; vision pack; pano roof; Meridian Surround; and I can live with the black wheels. Aftermarket extended warranty will cost $5000 for 4 years and I should have less grief with buying the VAP tune.
https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/invent...ting=180485800
https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/invent...ting=180485800
Yes, but the car does this buy cutting your throttle and pulsing brakes. This makes you slower. Better tires help, but not solve this problem. With Pzeroes I could spin rear tires in second and on a cold day in third. That is, unless you are accustomed to driving muscle cars, you need AWD. You can't just mash throttle on RWD. Most people just mash throttle.
Last edited by SinF; Aug 20, 2017 at 08:17 PM.
Yes, but the car does this buy cutting your throttle and pulsing brakes. This makes you slower. Better tires help, but not solve this problem. With Pzeroes I could spin rear tires in second and on a cold day in third. That is, unless you are accustomed to driving muscle cars, you need AWD. You can't just mash throttle on RWD. Most people just mash throttle.
I am trying to scientifically quantify the "seat of the pants feelin"
I think its G-forces on the prostate.
This could be bigger than BodyArmor and Yoga pants.
Yoga pants with transducers.
We can save the environment.
I have a working title: G-Force Direct Injection
I think its G-forces on the prostate.
This could be bigger than BodyArmor and Yoga pants.
Yoga pants with transducers.
We can save the environment.
I have a working title: G-Force Direct Injection
I've never found traction control to be invasive, at least not on dry pavement. Never felt it cut the throttle that I can recall. I'm guessing the LSD grabs before TC kicks in?
Traction control on this car is really well designed, even when it goes all-out correcting you might not notice it with a car equipped with an automatic gearbox. Because I drive MT, I have more direct feedback into what the drive train does.
If you are an adventurous type, try following. First, stomp on accelerator from stand still on a flat dry road. Watch the car just go. Second, turn traction control completely off (hold button for 10 seconds), then stomp on your accelerator. You immediately will see what traction control does.
However, be careful as in second case the rear will become loose, this will point your car sideways and rapidly push you that direction if you lift off accelerator. Very easy to end up in a skid and there is no traction control to bail you out. That is, to correct you need to gradually reduce throttle while counter steering or you will risk ending up in a ditch/wall.
If you are an adventurous type, try following. First, stomp on accelerator from stand still on a flat dry road. Watch the car just go. Second, turn traction control completely off (hold button for 10 seconds), then stomp on your accelerator. You immediately will see what traction control does.
However, be careful as in second case the rear will become loose, this will point your car sideways and rapidly push you that direction if you lift off accelerator. Very easy to end up in a skid and there is no traction control to bail you out. That is, to correct you need to gradually reduce throttle while counter steering or you will risk ending up in a ditch/wall.
Difference between V6S with LSD and V6 without one is what happens when your tires spin. V6 will spin one tire (and then traction control intervenes) and V6S spins both tires (and then traction control intervenes). On RWD car LSD is a must.






