When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Slowly working on my F-Type during winter and now that I have a Quick Jack I will be working on the surface rust on the cross members. Are there any issues with me removing them and then getting them all painted at the same time?
Thinkin of powder coating them at a shop and or just using POR-15 and doing a sand and prep leaving them in place.
Any thoughts or tips? Searched and seen some great jobs but not a lot on removing the crossmembers.
Thanks in advance
We didn't remove our braces to refinish, and the POR-15 we used is holding up like new after 3.5 years.
I DID loosen a few of the bolts to allow the POR to penetrate into the upper surfaces of the braces. Not positive this was necessary. But as you will see, access to the bolts in back are REALLY involved...
I think if the car is jacked up, there shouldn't be any issues with the braces coming off to powder coat them. I know the front stabilization brace that sits just in front of the transmission under the cats, has 6 bolts and comes right off. I sanded and refinished that one myself when I recently did the cats on my car. Was super simple. The rest appear to be similar.
Like you I have made this a winter project also. I have removed all the braces and have brush painted them with Gloss Black Rustoleum Paint. If you do it with the right brush, the paint will flow together without any brush marks, I removed the muffler in order to get the big brace out. Also be sure to get all the torque specs before reinstalling. Putting the large brace back in that bolts to the subframe takes some special handling. You first have to torque the frame bolts to 44 Ft Lbs then tighten the bolt an additional 240 degrees. Also the 3 large bolts in front of the rear tires, the manual called for 33 ft lbs, but no way. I checked these before I loosened them with a torque wrench and they were at about 80-90 ft lbs. I torqued them back to 80 ft lbs. Most people won't ever see the results, but I know it, and that is all that matters. Here are some pictures.
When I removed my braces I had no problem and everything lined back up perfectly. BUT, I did support the rear end so it would not drop or move when I removed the rear brace.
Like you I have made this a winter project also. I have removed all the braces and have brush painted them with Gloss Black Rustoleum Paint. If you do it with the right brush, the paint will flow together without any brush marks, I removed the muffler in order to get the big brace out. Also be sure to get all the torque specs before reinstalling. Putting the large brace back in that bolts to the subframe takes some special handling. You first have to torque the frame bolts to 44 Ft Lbs then tighten the bolt an additional 240 degrees. Also the 3 large bolts in front of the rear tires, the manual called for 33 ft lbs, but no way. I checked these before I loosened them with a torque wrench and they were at about 80-90 ft lbs. I torqued them back to 80 ft lbs. Most people won't ever see the results, but I know it, and that is all that matters. Here are some pictures.
Looks like somebody repainted those nasty rear calipers too! They look good.
DC
PS...I also removed the braces and sanded them, and used a product that primes/paints/and converts rust. I think it is a Rustoleum product as well.
I was able to stay just off the braces with the quick jack but you are right fairly close to each of them. I probably should have done a 4 post or even a real decent two post but won't really be under the car much except for the cross member paint (hopefully only that but who knows). Did you sand or prep in place before painting?
Thanks
Is there anything special one needs to do this job - do the braces simply bolt up and bolt off....not changes happen to alignment or the like, righ?
TIA
Thanks!
jb
Correct. None of these will affect your alignment. The only challenge is jacking up the car and supporting it without blocking the access points to remove the cross-members. Not difficult, you just have to be mindful where you place the stands (or lift points). These are strictly for support/reinforcement and nothing will shift with the vehicle geometry or alignment...Unless maybe if you drop the car accidentally
1. Any reason to do or not do powdercoating to these things?
2. If one could get the full subframe off, worth powdercoating/other it too.....seems to also have rust, albeit less. I realize it will be a BIG job to do this but just wondering....say one wanted to keep the car for 300k miles.....forever.....interested in wisdom of the use of powdercoating in this area mostly. Can it prevent the rust/damage and hold up?
Depending on your use of the car I guess.
I would think powder coating would be the better option if you can afford it and have a place that can do it. I chose to paint other than powder coat due to the price no local places in my area, and due to the fact my car never sees winter weather. ( Plus very little rain) If you have the time and know-how, I think doing the subframe is a good idea. It will eventually start to rust but I don't think to a point you would need to worry about though.
Got more feedback...don't powdercoat but use toughest rust prevention paint you can...because you can sand and repair it later as needed.....so that is the plan now.
Cross Member paint
