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Selling single JL10TW3 dual 4 ohm sub woofer in the custom built ported enclosure designed to sit flush with rear floor.
Probably have two weeks worth work in building box to custom fit and designing the port. Beauty panel will be included that will drop right in and covers over the battery and sub enclosure for a very clean factory look. Sub is rated 400wrms 800peak. Guaranteed to be a substantial upgraded for your meridian system. The JL subwoofer grill is also included which was separate. I recently upgraded to a 12" woofer so letting this all go for $500.00 plus shipping.
It will require and aftermarket amp if you want the full potential. You can take a speaker level input signals from the door midbass speakers to drive the sub amplifier. I had the sub wired as a two ohm load so a small mono block amp capable of 350 to 400rms at 2 ohms would be my suggestion. So to answer your question then, probably a little more involved than just plug and play, but the results are so worth the effort. Any audio enthusiast should be able to get thing up and running in a day.
Or do you have to have extensive knowledge with audio wiring.
Thank you!
To follow up on Jag's response, you just need to tap the front door woofer speaker wires coming from the factory amplifier. You can grab them by pulling the panel behind the seats. Beyond that it pretty easy with this car since the battery is already in the rear. Super easy to run power and ground to the amp. Get something like the Audio Control ACM-1.300 for $300 and you are set.
To follow up on Jag's response, you just need to tap the front door woofer speaker wires coming from the factory amplifier. You can grab them by pulling the panel behind the seats. Beyond that it pretty easy with this car since the battery is already in the rear. Super easy to run power and ground to the amp. Get something like the Audio Control ACM-1.300 for $300 and you are set.
This is the amp I used with this sub woofer. It is also available if anyone interested, will let it go for $200.00 + shipping.
Can you build me this? How much do you need? How does it sound? Willing to pay for your time.
Sorry I only do my own stuff these days, I do still have the first ported enclosure and beauty panel designed for the JL 10TW3 for sale if interested in that. Sub not included anymore, going in my truck. 250.00 + Shipping
Last edited by Jag Bass; Oct 26, 2024 at 06:24 AM.
Yes, im very interested in buying that ported box, i just bought a jl 10Tw3-d4 speaker with a audio control LC-1.800. I was gonna try and build a box but its been many years since ive done that and you seem to have spent a lot of time making sure the volume is correct ect and did a great job! I was curious about a few things though, i normally like a sealed box, as i mainly listen to more music that is kick drum and tighter bass response type stuff, i think i saw that you made a plug for that box in another thread to seal it if you so wanted, do i have that right? Would the larger volume at around .77 be ok with the jl i bought? I think it suggests around .56 or something. Also why did you replace it in the first place? And i have a 770w system thats a 2015, i think i have a different system in the back with a small almost motorcycle size extra battery thats for the start stop which i don't use, i guess I'd need to remove or relocate that stuff for you box to fit.. not sure if youve seen my years system to be able to verify. What do you suggest i do to steal line level signals for the sub? I was gonna just tap the existing rear "subs" but seems like you and many others found that not to be a good signal, i also in my 770w system when i fade everything to the rears do not hear much if anything from the subs.
Ill take it for the 250 plus shipping, i think i can get it to fit. Let me know if still available and how you'd like to proceed with collecting payment, thanks.
Yes, im very interested in buying that ported box, i just bought a jl 10Tw3-d4 speaker with a audio control LC-1.800. I was gonna try and build a box but its been many years since ive done that and you seem to have spent a lot of time making sure the volume is correct ect and did a great job! I was curious about a few things though, i normally like a sealed box, as i mainly listen to more music that is kick drum and tighter bass response type stuff, i think i saw that you made a plug for that box in another thread to seal it if you so wanted, do i have that right? Would the larger volume at around .77 be ok with the jl i bought? I think it suggests around .56 or something. Also why did you replace it in the first place? And i have a 770w system thats a 2015, i think i have a different system in the back with a small almost motorcycle size extra battery thats for the start stop which i don't use, i guess I'd need to remove or relocate that stuff for you box to fit.. not sure if youve seen my years system to be able to verify. What do you suggest i do to steal line level signals for the sub? I was gonna just tap the existing rear "subs" but seems like you and many others found that not to be a good signal, i also in my 770w system when i fade everything to the rears do not hear much if anything from the subs.
.50cf is the minimum box size sealed for that woofer. The plug can be used but will be very noticeable drop in output level vs ported. I swaped it out with the 12" because I just wanted more, not saying the single 10 was at all not adequate. It is actually going to find a new home in my F150 as a front sub. As far as a hi level signal, I would take that from the L & R door midbass. I will PM you regarding the sale.
You can remove the battery, but probably not the electronics it connects to. My 2nd battery died years ago so I pulled mine. ECO doesn’t work, but that’s the only way you can tell.
Custom Subwoofer Enclosure
