Hey guys, I wanted to share with you my latest improvement made to my x350's in car entertainment system.

Before I started, my car had the premium system, components up front (dash mids, door handle supertweeters, and door midbass) and in the rear - door midbass and those handle supertweeters. Of course, I have the ACM installed.

After I bought the car a couple years ago, I immediately added a 10-inch JL subwoofer in a sealed box, and powered it with a JL Audio mono amplifier and an AudioControl LC2i to take the subwoofer leads from the existing amplifier, sum them into one channel, and compensate for the system's tendency to 'reduce bass' at higher volumes. I was fairly satisfied, but something kept nagging at me, it just wasn't hitting very hard, and I was very disappointed from a rear-seat passenger not having any midrange back there. If you wanted to hear vocals, it had to come all the way from the front dash. So, I came up with a plan. You should see my electrical wiring diagram with notes and connections!

My shopping list included:

RE Audio xxx6.5c components for the front and rear


AudioControl LC7i output converter with bass restoration

Precision Power DEQ.8 signal processor


JL Audio XD400v2 4-channel amplifier

PAC Audio LC-1 remote level control for the subwooer gain adjustment


And I incorporated my existing amplifier and subwooer:

JL Audio 500/1 version 1 mono amplifier


JL Audio 106v2 subwoofer in a sealed box


The project scope was daunting, but after I bought all of the equipment, I couldn't stop my momentum.

I removed almost everything from the interior...driver seat, center console, rear seat w/ the rear entertainment armrest, rear parcel shelf...so much trim...it was two days just getting it disassembled.





Here is my interior...totally stripped!



The driver seat was a total beeetch to get totally unfixed from the car...the seat belt strap and mounting bolt was behind the trim, and you had to tilt it back to get the last screw on the trim piece, then move the seat forward far enough to get the ratchet and torx on it! what a pain in my rump...but totally worth it.





Now, I used some of the existing wiring to the speakers, but I also added new speaker wires to the rear for my 'new' tweeters (for the missing midrange frequencies). When I got into the doors, each supertweeter was just disconnected...no need for those anymore.

Removed the old subwoofers from the rear parcel shelf...I think it helped the lower frequencies to make it into the cabin.





Why the driver seat and console, you ask? Well, I wanted to run the subwoofer amplifier remote gain/level control knob and its bass boost (set at 52 hz) I installed them both inside the ashtray compartment



The PPI DEQ.8 signal processor also is controlled/adjusted using a USB interface, so I ran a long cable up to the front, coming up under the driver seat so I can easily plug it into my laptop for tuning while in the 'prime' listening position.

Notice anything different to the rear doors?





That's where I installed the new tweeters! I didn't want to do the original shiny black look, so I could either go light and try get close to the ivory interior, or a little darker and contrast it slightly. I chose the 'darker' route.



In the boot, things got a little tight on space trying to locate all the crossovers (yes, I wanted to put them all back here instead of near each of the components...personal preference), output converter, signal processor, and those amps.

I put the signal processor atop my BT/phone module combo in the equipment rack...perfect fit!







The output converter, I chose to affix it to the existing amplifier, since I needed close proximity to all those original speaker level inputs Initially, I didn't think I would need this particular converter, but here is what I found when I 'tested' each existing speaker wire for its range.

Before I started this little venture, I read from another member's post that he discovered that each speaker wire carried a 'full' range signal to each speaker, and the speaker itself had resistors mounted to cut various frequencies from the speaker itself. Well, that wasn't the case for me. Here is what I found.

Front dash - upper frequencies only
Front doors - lower frequencies only
Rear doors - full range

Isn't that odd! So, instead of four (4) channels to work with, I had six (6). The AudioControl LC7i accepts six (channels) and allows you to sum all six, four, or none at all into the MAIN channel 1, giving me my four (4) inputs I wanted into the DEQ.8...plus, the LC7i it allowed me to 'catch' and correct the system's higher volume bass drop-off. I don't know if it only applied to the subwoofer, but I had a suspicion it also dipped the low-end in all the door midbass speakers.

So, after putting the interior all back together, and spending a few weeks tweeking the signal processor's, it sounds fantastic. The tuning capability of the front EQ and the sub frequencies make a huge difference over the stock system curves. Here are some screenshots of the user interface for the processor. It was pretty user friendly.













Its 'fuller', vocals are strong, and I can get some serious low-end bass, although the tighter drum-type 'punch' is hard to feel all the way up front from the boot in this LWB car. As such, I used the RE Audio components to take some of that duty...did you see the magnet on this thing?

It is a very good speaker system, and even with the 3/4" spacer added, my rear windows contact the magnet at the end of its travel.






Oh, and the BT phone volume is no longer too low to hear! This was a complaint that me and another member identified, and with the new amp setup, my phone volume is never over 3/4 of its range. A bonus...and so much better!

I'm just now getting my carpet installed back into the boot, so no final pictures just yet of what is visible. But, in the meantime, here is a work-in-progress shot







There is so much involved with this install, if anyone has any questions, just let me know. I have more pictures and can explain any details that I missed after glossing over the project in general here.

Now, if you've read this far...anybody want 6-3/4" midbass drivers? Free, you pay for shipping. All work perfectly...just pay for shipping!





I didn't salvage the mids in the dash, as I destroyed them to 'drop' in the RE Audio tweeter into the frame of the dash mid, allowing me to use the same mounting bracket and I soldered into the speaker connector too!

 

Well, that's certainly an upgrade!

Where's part II ?

EDIT

It was the X-Type Premium Sound Retrofit that had full range going to the tweeters, but i'd fitted an amp from an X350 and it was still full range to the tweeters...and after buying a set of OEM Alpine tweeters that's when I discovered they were using the capacitor to cut the bass out of the channel.

And the p/n for the tweeter is the same for the X-Type and the XJ, so who knows...

I never got as deep into it as you, serious stuff.

 

What a pity
Mine RH indash mid has quit working, it's resistance is less than 1Ohm now
If anyone have a used RH or LH dash speaker i'll be glad to buy it (paypal/whatever else).

 

Looks awesome!

The standard speakers are reasonably okay for the time being on mine

The JL stuff is good gear got JL speakers in my XJR6

Seems a lot of cars just use a capacitor or bass blocker for the tweeter these days

 

Thanks, guys. I'm glad you approve and like my modifications I'm really surprised that i didn't create any electrical issues when it was all put together...so many plugs, connectors and wires. I did find that the whole system won't work without the rear armrest powered and its fiber optic plug connected. I almost crapped myself when I went to test it and got NOTHING

sorry, moscowleaper, I hope you find a replacement. Ebay US has several, but the shipping charges are 3x what you pay for the part.

 

Wow that is a lot of work! Impressive!

 

Once again an outstanding job and great posting to share with all. Nice clean installation given all of the components involved.....now if only my ears could hear the new set up, I am sure it is like listing to a live symphony!!!

 

A final pic of the boot all cleaned up. I will tuck those RCA extension cables to the amp once the new, high quality cables arrive.

Oh, and two of the speakers are spoken for. Anyone else want the other two, just PM me.

 

Awesomeness!
Just out of curiosity, could you have installed the new tweeters in the door handle or were they too big?

 

Thanks BlackKat!

I suppose you could try to install it behind the door handle. Its grille opening is 1-inch in diameter and the new tweeter has a diameter of 1.5 inches. May or may not have enough room behind it...I'm not sure. One thing I found about these tweeters in my past installation with the xk8...where I initially mounted it in the A-pillar facing the driver almost directly, is that sounded too 'bright'. In that instance, dash install was the best. I also read that keeping the tweeter component close to the midbass/woofer for best sound quality.

 

Great install, I bet it sounds fantastic!

I have always had an interest in car audio, but never the ambition/patience to do any big installs...

 

Wowwww'zers!!! Man that is incredible! I was scared to just do the Bluetooth module! Hahaha

I bet it sounds amazing though. I'm a musician/producer/engineer so I'm a stickler for sound. I wish I could ship my car to you & get you to do mine!..

 

Nicely done. I'll be looking at doing something similar, I'll have to do some research into the outputs of my current amps (premium system). I hope somewhere there is a full channel, or at least low fq. I currently took the output from the subwoofer amp and ran that to an old Phoenix Gold amp. I'm running a decent sub, but it sounds like it's crossed over at 50hz or so. Most likely done to protect the piddly little subs that came in the rear shelf, but essentially means no proper low fq sound.

Cmon, Jaguar, how am I supposed to watch the Matrix without real bass?

Edit: Wait, I just saw that you have a SuperV8 too. So, does that mean you didn't mess with the output of the sub amp as an input at all? Just the rear had the low fq needed?

Thanks,
Oilstain

 

I can't hear anymore so the equipment you installed is wasted on me but not the workmanship. Very nice looking install

 

This is absolutely incredible work. After reading this thread I almost feel like nothing I want to try would be worthwhile because this absolutely trumps it all LOL Great job!

 

Couple more questions:

Did you try running without the PPI DSP?
Did the spacers come with the RE xxx6.5 components?
Were the spacers necessary for the front doors, or just the back?
I've read that the RE speakers are real power hogs, how do they sound with "only" 100 w/channel? (The speakers are 2ohm, correct?)

Edit to add: How difficult is removing the dash grills to retrofit your tweeters? Any tips or tricks?

Thanks,
Oilstain

 

Nice work!
I would totally pay you to do my car.
Care for a paid So Cal vacay with a side trip to my garage? <G>

 

No, I did. My single amp had two (2) outputs for the small 6-in subs in the parcel shelf. I used both of those to go into my signal processor, so the subwoofer volume adjustment DOES still actually work. You gave me an idea, however. Since the radio and/or amp will 'steal' some bass to save those small speakers as the volume rises, I might get better response and sound by not using the dedicated subwoofer leads. To do this, all I have to do is check a couple boxes in the signal processor's ROUTING screen.



I did not, sorry, except to begin the 'tuning', which sounded like crap initially.

No, the spacers were purchased from PVC Speaker Adapters - CNC Machined - In Stock or Custom Made for $25 each set.

I am pretty sure the front does need them also, but I started at the rear and they barely fit w/ the spacers, meaning the glass not hitting the magnet...so I chose to use them up front w/o checking first for clearance.

Correct, I purchased two sets of 2-ohm components. My amp gain is at 1/2 on both the front and rear outputs. So, I'd say plenty big enough for these 2-ohm units.

Easy peezy, just use a little speaker to pry up those grills, and I used a torx bit inside a little ratcheting tool like this and the entire tweeter comes out of the dash.

 

Wolfy, I appreciate the offer, but this project was not a 'weekend' type of thing. I really don't want to do it again...EVER. lol

Thanks for the compliments guys! Mucho appreciated.

 

A very impressive project, must sound 1st class