exactly what I did man … I ran all sorts of cleaner through it.. then one day it went, you can’t clean it to fix it at this point it’s too late imo… so you can wait till it goes out or otherwise bite the bullet and fix it… it might take weeks for you to get into a shop , weeks for the parts, and weeks for the job to be finished so buy the stuff you need now and you will thank me later… these cars are known to have injector issues and I wish I did more research prior to buying …

cooling system goes out on these cars, injectors, and cats … literally I’m going to have to replace everything minus the cooling system which was all brand new prior to me buying the car

 

OK!, so i just bit the bullet and bought everything. for under $950. As soon as all this comes in i will get these injectors changed.

ALL THE PARTS WERE COURTESY OF THIS THREAD


PARTS TO ORDER:

INJECTORS $800


INJECTOR SEAL TOOL $70

INJECTOR SEAL/CLIP KIT $50


DOCS:

FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE

JLR MANUAL INJECTOR REMOVAL PROCEDURE

 

I’m not a gear head so I’ve been reading these posts with some trepidation. Guys, I frankly want zero to do with paying to correct any of these issues. I already paid a steep price for a ‘21 F-Type R Coupe with 10k on the odometer. CPO warranty expires 12/30/2026 with unlimited miles. Car is garaged and only driven when roads are snowless, as I live in Western NY, currently experiencing a “bomb cyclone,” the latest weatherman jargon for a friggin blizzard. My other vehicle is a Volvo EV. So given everything that’s being said in these posts, it seems as though there’s a decent chance I might eventually encounter similar issues at some point, sooner or later. Ain’t no way I’m paying to correct any of them. So I’ll be moving on to my next ride before my coverage ends. Thanks for the heads up.

 

I share the same opinion, Ken.
did originally think it might be worth paying JLR for the additonal 2 years of warranty, but from reading on this forum it seems that it not a great solution cover-wise or cost-wise.
So I may upgrade to a last production year 2024 R or just let my warranty run out and sell in 2016.
If it was not for the $200K price tag I would prefer to get a Tesla Roadster (new in 2023) - check out the specs for this baby!!

 

Yes, agreed. And some coverage does fall off the CPO warranty. My factory warranty goes to 12/2025 or 60k miles, which I will be under, so by then is probably the optimal time to move on. Jaguar does have best in class warranties anyway! Don’t get me wrong. I absolutely love this vehicle. Had a ‘16 base v6 f-type conv and an ‘18 f-type r conv before this coupe, which I also loved but the coupe is my favorite by far. So I will definitely consider a later year R coupe when the time comes. Jaguar should also be into its EV line-up by 2025, to be based on an entirely new platform. Not familiar with the Tesla you mention. Have never been attracted to their looks, outside or in.

 

https://www.caranddriver.com/tesla/roadster

 

Wow. That is something. Thanks.

 

more of a preventative cleaner than a cure. Those using it to improve gas mileage are apt to be disappointed.

 

Here is a video showing some diagnostics. Hope this can pinpoint something. The fuel trims in the video were not all registering in the first few seconds of the video. please look @4:27 and see how all the fuel trims were responding.

 

If your Bank 2 catalyst is destroyed, that is most likely why you are getting the misfires. The catalyst clogs and creates too much back pressure, which affects the AFR in the combustion chamber, provoking a misfire. I diagnose this by removing upstream and downstream sensor on suspected bank, can either insert a borescope camera to view or the preferred method is attach a pressure change or oscilloscope to compare delta. If a large delta is noticed before the catalysts = blocked.

Also, if the catalyst had failed and broke off pieces, these pieces can get sucked back into the combustion chamber during the EGR camshaft phase cycle. If this has occurred and you're seeing misfire codes, the worst case could even be something like bent valves from the broken catalyst material.

Nonetheless, it's very rare only 1 catalyst goes out, usually the ECU will flag 1 bank and the other side is shortly lived, meaning both banks are needed when the brick starts to come apart (providing it's a not a code pertaining to a concern of the welds cracked)...etc.

 

I have some good news!
I have installed all of the injectors and i drove around (40) miles and now the only code i get is the catalyst codes on bank 2. Initially I eventually got some misfires (if i drove it enough) but not this time. Car seems to idle better.
Next day, i decide install the 200 cell downpipes, after disassembly i find my bank 2 cat looking like this. (the pic is after i dumped out the big clusters.

However I figure this is the affect of my misfire, not the cause!
I couldn't finish my install with the pipes because i needed some flange bolts since i couldn't remove the ones in the discarded flange. After i ordered some bolts from ebay, i decided to look around under my car and inspect and i find a horribly collapsed motor mount and I order new mounts as well. After i order the mounts i go and look for a "how to" thread for the mounts and i find this.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...mounts-221412/

Right on the first page i see this!
...and yes both of them are my symptoms!

So my assumption is that .....
1.) bank 2 fuel injector was going out first! (probably #8)
2.) cat gets blown out
3.) cat causes multiple misfires?
4.) motor mount also doing the same at times?

Hell I dont even know anymore, too much to think about but im fixing it all. will update with videos as well.

 

Same engine..."different" mechanic! lol

 

i did not like his method, i pulled at linear angles with the injectors, he pulled straight up! wait till i show you my video. it made it way safer

 

Here is how i did my injectors. i didn't like the video of the guy using the engine hoist because it pulled the injector straight up from an angular socket. I decided to use a ratchet strap to give a large amount of pull assistance as i used my shoulder to control the exact angle of the strap and the slide hammer to lodge the injector loose.

hope this helps you guys.

 

 

these last 2 videos are the vids of the finds that i explained in post #31
apparently this is a big issue that triggers random misfire codes as well.

.

 

Everything is all back together . And this car sounds amazing! I should have a test run video by tomorrow.

 

This has been a hell of a project, but with tediousness and patience i am finally to a resolution! I drove my car the entire weekend even after this video and this car actually feels faster, it idles better and im just so happy. It still feels unreal to go through that entire Jaguar Dealer experience but now i just cant wait to bring my car back for an oil change.

THANK ALL OF YOU GUYS FOR THE HELP!!

............"TEAR"

Please excuse the camera positioning at certain parts. i was paying more attention to the road.

 

Glad you brought your cat back to life to enjoy the wild again

 

wait until you install upper and lower pulley and tune. Then you will really "feel" the difference. The Stage 2 (lower only) tune is pretty incredible by itself, so from no tune to Stage 3 will bring smiles for miles!