Rattle vibration between seats towards the back of the headliner area.
#1
Rattle vibration between seats towards the back of the headliner area.
I have a 2016 F Type R, when I have the music fairly loud with base i.e. UB40 early stuff I get a rattle/vibration in the headliner in the middle area behind the seats.
If I push up on the headliner (I have the sky light glass panel that has the roll back cover) in that area which is where the rollback cover for the sky light rolls back in, the noise goes away. Its feels like something up there has come unstuck from the roof panel.
Before I go to the dealer does anyone else have this issue i.e. is there a TSB or is this a known issue?
Thanks
Simon
If I push up on the headliner (I have the sky light glass panel that has the roll back cover) in that area which is where the rollback cover for the sky light rolls back in, the noise goes away. Its feels like something up there has come unstuck from the roof panel.
Before I go to the dealer does anyone else have this issue i.e. is there a TSB or is this a known issue?
Thanks
Simon
#3
Music with a lot of bass is going to rattle things... It's just about unavoidable. They've done a pretty good job on the jag but different objects and materials have different resonant frequencies and it's hard to design for all of them without adding another 50 pounds to the car. I know some of the songs you're referring to and they have prolonged and higher frequency almost pure-sinewave bass notes than what is typical. The perfect setup for a rattle. Hope you're able to get it sorted--- it could be a real challenge for the dealer.
Last edited by 15FTypeR; 01-13-2018 at 03:15 PM.
#4
Think I can live with it as I really don't want the dealer where I live taking the inside apart. If there was a TSB I would go for it but with out factory instructions most dealers can make a real mess of things when it comes to trim.
Note I had the TSB for the difficult to fill with petrol issue. After they completed the job I checked the work and found they had round my lug nuts, incorrectly routed the over fill tube, left the heat shield for the exhaust bent down, scratch the inside of the wheel, and over lapped the wheel liner incorrectly. I corrected all of these myself.
Note I had the TSB for the difficult to fill with petrol issue. After they completed the job I checked the work and found they had round my lug nuts, incorrectly routed the over fill tube, left the heat shield for the exhaust bent down, scratch the inside of the wheel, and over lapped the wheel liner incorrectly. I corrected all of these myself.
#5
#6
I just picked up my 2017 F-Type S AWD and have the exact same rattle!! I hear it with the radio turned off, so it's not from the bass or blown speaker. The rattle intensifies when i'm accelerating - it's obviously from vibration of some sort.
It's driving me crazy though... I just purchased a $90K car and don't expect an annoying rattle... why does this stuff never happen during the test drive?!?!
Any thoughts advice would be appreciated as I fear the dealership ripping it apart will end up causing a new rattle somewhere else...
It's driving me crazy though... I just purchased a $90K car and don't expect an annoying rattle... why does this stuff never happen during the test drive?!?!
Any thoughts advice would be appreciated as I fear the dealership ripping it apart will end up causing a new rattle somewhere else...
#7
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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I just picked up my 2017 F-Type S AWD and have the exact same rattle!! I hear it with the radio turned off, so it's not from the bass or blown speaker. The rattle intensifies when i'm accelerating - it's obviously from vibration of some sort.
It's driving me crazy though... I just purchased a $90K car and don't expect an annoying rattle... why does this stuff never happen during the test drive?!?!
Any thoughts advice would be appreciated as I fear the dealership ripping it apart will end up causing a new rattle somewhere else...
It's driving me crazy though... I just purchased a $90K car and don't expect an annoying rattle... why does this stuff never happen during the test drive?!?!
Any thoughts advice would be appreciated as I fear the dealership ripping it apart will end up causing a new rattle somewhere else...
Easiest way to check is to take the hatch cover right out and go for a drive, if the rattle is gone you have found the problem.
If that is the problem then the easiest way to fix it is to wrap the pins in insulation tape (8,10,12 turns, trial and error) then jam the brackets over the pins really hard. Top tip - hold the panel that the pin is attached you as you jam the bracket over it, otherwise it moves a lot, easiest way is from the side not from straight behind.
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#8
Assuming you have a coupe the first thing to check is the hatch cover, it might not be fully located on the pins, and even if it is the fit is sometimes quite loose and the brackets rattle on the pins (near the front of the cover, just behind the seats).
Easiest way to check is to take the hatch cover right out and go for a drive, if the rattle is gone you have found the problem.
If that is the problem then the easiest way to fix it is to wrap the pins in insulation tape (8,10,12 turns, trial and error) then jam the brackets over the pins really hard. Top tip - hold the panel that the pin is attached you as you jam the bracket over it, otherwise it moves a lot, easiest way is from the side not from straight behind.
Easiest way to check is to take the hatch cover right out and go for a drive, if the rattle is gone you have found the problem.
If that is the problem then the easiest way to fix it is to wrap the pins in insulation tape (8,10,12 turns, trial and error) then jam the brackets over the pins really hard. Top tip - hold the panel that the pin is attached you as you jam the bracket over it, otherwise it moves a lot, easiest way is from the side not from straight behind.
#9
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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I'm guessing that to get the pano roof cover off you need to remove most if not all of the roof trim panels.
#10
Why wouldn't this be covered by TSB: JTB00432v2 14.09.2015 Vibrations -Rattles Entertainment System?
Per the comments above, there can be many reasons why squeak and rattle exist - I just don't think it's the buyer's responsibility to correct, under warranty. Maybe that's where my opinion and the dealer's differs
Per the comments above, there can be many reasons why squeak and rattle exist - I just don't think it's the buyer's responsibility to correct, under warranty. Maybe that's where my opinion and the dealer's differs
#11
Why wouldn't this be covered by TSB: JTB00432v2 14.09.2015 Vibrations -Rattles Entertainment System?
Per the comments above, there can be many reasons why squeak and rattle exist - I just don't think it's the buyer's responsibility to correct, under warranty. Maybe that's where my opinion and the dealer's differs
Per the comments above, there can be many reasons why squeak and rattle exist - I just don't think it's the buyer's responsibility to correct, under warranty. Maybe that's where my opinion and the dealer's differs
#12
Assuming you have a coupe the first thing to check is the hatch cover, it might not be fully located on the pins, and even if it is the fit is sometimes quite loose and the brackets rattle on the pins (near the front of the cover, just behind the seats).
Easiest way to check is to take the hatch cover right out and go for a drive, if the rattle is gone you have found the problem.
If that is the problem then the easiest way to fix it is to wrap the pins in insulation tape (8,10,12 turns, trial and error) then jam the brackets over the pins really hard. Top tip - hold the panel that the pin is attached you as you jam the bracket over it, otherwise it moves a lot, easiest way is from the side not from straight behind.
Easiest way to check is to take the hatch cover right out and go for a drive, if the rattle is gone you have found the problem.
If that is the problem then the easiest way to fix it is to wrap the pins in insulation tape (8,10,12 turns, trial and error) then jam the brackets over the pins really hard. Top tip - hold the panel that the pin is attached you as you jam the bracket over it, otherwise it moves a lot, easiest way is from the side not from straight behind.
#13
#14
#16
Hey, one hint from my side, not sure if it is applicable to any of the above mentioned issues, but good to check (need to open the tailgate for it):
For the F-Type Coupe, there is a piece of rubber running around the inside of the trunk, and basically connecting it to the chassis where the rain-drain is.
This piece of rubber is about 3mm wide and lays flat on the chassis.
Typically it should be glued all around, so if you put your fingernail on the corner, you should not be able to lift it easily.
If it comes up while running your finger along the edge, the glue got weak.
If you now go to a higher speed, the wind will be pressed in from the side of the tailgate and get the rubber to flutter.
This will give you a rhythmic rattle, which if you are in the inside of car, appears to come from somewhere behind your left or right ear (depending on the side) but as it was in the cabine and not outside.
My dealer fixed this with re-applying some glue.
For the F-Type Coupe, there is a piece of rubber running around the inside of the trunk, and basically connecting it to the chassis where the rain-drain is.
This piece of rubber is about 3mm wide and lays flat on the chassis.
Typically it should be glued all around, so if you put your fingernail on the corner, you should not be able to lift it easily.
If it comes up while running your finger along the edge, the glue got weak.
If you now go to a higher speed, the wind will be pressed in from the side of the tailgate and get the rubber to flutter.
This will give you a rhythmic rattle, which if you are in the inside of car, appears to come from somewhere behind your left or right ear (depending on the side) but as it was in the cabine and not outside.
My dealer fixed this with re-applying some glue.
#17
I had a persistent rattle from behind the passenger seat. I brought it in a total of three times to the local Minneapolis JLR dealer - the first time they just added some anti rattle tape or whatever to the interior components.
The second time they fixed another rattle that was being caused by a loose amplifier or cpu on the firewall that would only be heard on acceleration.
The third time, I left the house super early and drove around the dealer neighborhood trying to find road landmarks that could get this rattle to come out. I managed this over some expansion joints. I took the master mechanic out and showed him exactly what was up. They took apart the entire interior from the seats back, and FINALLY found the cause - an electrical connector had come loose and was beating into the surrounding metal, enough to leave witness marks. They wrapped the connector and it was finally fixed.
I've been daily driving since June, and even now take it in the Minneapolis winter, and the rattles/base speakers are my only complaints.
The second time they fixed another rattle that was being caused by a loose amplifier or cpu on the firewall that would only be heard on acceleration.
The third time, I left the house super early and drove around the dealer neighborhood trying to find road landmarks that could get this rattle to come out. I managed this over some expansion joints. I took the master mechanic out and showed him exactly what was up. They took apart the entire interior from the seats back, and FINALLY found the cause - an electrical connector had come loose and was beating into the surrounding metal, enough to leave witness marks. They wrapped the connector and it was finally fixed.
I've been daily driving since June, and even now take it in the Minneapolis winter, and the rattles/base speakers are my only complaints.
#18
I also have a slight rattle from behind the passenger seat, which appears to be a result of warranty work. Approx 8 months ago I took my car to the dealer for a differential replacement and a window problem on the passenger side (wouldn't close all the way). They replaced the differential and decided it needed a window motor replacement. Problem was while replacing the window motor they damaged something that caused the airbag warning light to come on. They took forever trying to figure it out and eventually replaced the passenger seatbelt tensioner. Got the car back and a few days later, on came the airbag light again. Second time around they replaced the passenger seatbelt assembly. Again, a few days later airbag light again. They had the car for a few days and eventually said that the wiring was incorrect on the tensioner. Looks like this was a recall from back in 2014, number J047. My guess is the tensioner had been sat on a shelf somewhere since manufacture and was still wired incorrectly. Anyway, everything fixed now but I gained this annoying little rattle. To be honest I'm very reluctant to have them strip the interior again in case they break something else.
Just gonna live with this one
Just gonna live with this one
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