F-Type differential failures
I am still wondering as I posted earlier in the thread if there is correlation to the fill levels. If your diff was replaced with a new unit the dealer would have had to fill it, as I doubt JLR would ship it with fluid in it.
If over filled = early seal failure and leaking.
If underfilled = early mechanical failure
If the factory is as careless with fluid levels as they are with fit and finish, I could easily see an abnormal amount of failures.
If the dealers are not careful when replacing the failed diff's then the same result. Possibly these units are very sensitive to fluid levels.
If over filled = early seal failure and leaking.
If underfilled = early mechanical failure
If the factory is as careless with fluid levels as they are with fit and finish, I could easily see an abnormal amount of failures.
If the dealers are not careful when replacing the failed diff's then the same result. Possibly these units are very sensitive to fluid levels.
I sure do miss actually driving my car
Ok I changed my diff oil today 2016 F-Type R with 7800 miles. I found 2 qtrs of LR019727 on EBay for $49 score!! LOL. Easy to do hardest parts was getting the filler plug back in.
My diff oil was dirty and when you shine a flash light on it u can see metal filings. There was a small amount of filings on the drain plugs also.
So I would defiantly recommend changing the fluid. I will do another change at 20K miles. My guess is just like you do a first engine oil change at low miles these diffs probably need the same if you want them to last.
You will need (NOTE Elec Differential F-Type R 5L):
1.2 Liters (L) of LR019727 (BOT 720 Castrol)
8mm 3/8 socket Filler plug
3/8 square drive Drain plug
1/4 inch square drive and plastic from a plastic bag.
Various 3/8 extensions and angles.
Pump and extension to fill the oil.
1/ Jack drivers side (LHD) rear wheel up. Remove the filler plug with the 8mm allen key socket on a 3/8 extension with an angle at the end. Follow the drive shaft to the diff its at 4 o'clock position. You will need to get under the car to engage the allen key in the filler plug.
2/ Remove drain plug with a 3/8th square drive. Let it drain, clean the plug and re install 21ft/lbs
3/ Fill up with 1.2L of fluid via the filler hole. I did this by first adding 800ml from my qtr bottle (i.e. down to the 200ml mark) then adding 400ml from the other bottle to the first bottle bringing it back up to 600ml. Then fill the diff so that you have 200 ml left in your bottle. That way you get exactly 1.2L.
4/ Use plastic to hold a 1/4 inch square drive in the filler plug to get it started, note the 3/8 allen socket (8mm) will catch on the frame and wont allow you to get it square to the filler hole. Once you have it started you can use your 3/8 allen socket to tighten to 21ft/lbs.
My diff oil was dirty and when you shine a flash light on it u can see metal filings. There was a small amount of filings on the drain plugs also.
So I would defiantly recommend changing the fluid. I will do another change at 20K miles. My guess is just like you do a first engine oil change at low miles these diffs probably need the same if you want them to last.
You will need (NOTE Elec Differential F-Type R 5L):
1.2 Liters (L) of LR019727 (BOT 720 Castrol)
8mm 3/8 socket Filler plug
3/8 square drive Drain plug
1/4 inch square drive and plastic from a plastic bag.
Various 3/8 extensions and angles.
Pump and extension to fill the oil.
1/ Jack drivers side (LHD) rear wheel up. Remove the filler plug with the 8mm allen key socket on a 3/8 extension with an angle at the end. Follow the drive shaft to the diff its at 4 o'clock position. You will need to get under the car to engage the allen key in the filler plug.
2/ Remove drain plug with a 3/8th square drive. Let it drain, clean the plug and re install 21ft/lbs
3/ Fill up with 1.2L of fluid via the filler hole. I did this by first adding 800ml from my qtr bottle (i.e. down to the 200ml mark) then adding 400ml from the other bottle to the first bottle bringing it back up to 600ml. Then fill the diff so that you have 200 ml left in your bottle. That way you get exactly 1.2L.
4/ Use plastic to hold a 1/4 inch square drive in the filler plug to get it started, note the 3/8 allen socket (8mm) will catch on the frame and wont allow you to get it square to the filler hole. Once you have it started you can use your 3/8 allen socket to tighten to 21ft/lbs.
Last edited by LedZepplin; Dec 5, 2020 at 08:15 PM.
Worryingly there seems to be more and more cases of diff and e diff failures on the f's.
There have been oil leaks documented on quite a few, but worryingly it appears that cars are losing their diffs, evident by strange noises from the rear, at anywhere from 25 ~50k miles.
I'm in the process of collating info (as I did quite a few years ago regarding underbody brace corrosion that got accepted by Jag UK as a build issue) and need help from guys over your side of the pond and beyond.
I'm yet to find any explanations from dealers regarding why the diffs fail, after all they just swap out the whole unit as opposed to diagnose and fix them, but I'd put money o it being oil contamination, and early break down of the lubricating properties perhaps?
So anyone that's had issues, I'd be glad to hear from you, as I would any diagnosis of why failure occurred.
Be good to know which diff/car model and mileage covered too.
TIA
There have been oil leaks documented on quite a few, but worryingly it appears that cars are losing their diffs, evident by strange noises from the rear, at anywhere from 25 ~50k miles.
I'm in the process of collating info (as I did quite a few years ago regarding underbody brace corrosion that got accepted by Jag UK as a build issue) and need help from guys over your side of the pond and beyond.
I'm yet to find any explanations from dealers regarding why the diffs fail, after all they just swap out the whole unit as opposed to diagnose and fix them, but I'd put money o it being oil contamination, and early break down of the lubricating properties perhaps?
So anyone that's had issues, I'd be glad to hear from you, as I would any diagnosis of why failure occurred.
Be good to know which diff/car model and mileage covered too.
TIA
Hi, I have a V6 s and when I purchased it I was told that it had a seal replaced in the diff. 5k miles later I started to get a squeal from the diff. I asked the local garage to drain the diff and refill. The oil that came out was black but had sufficent quantity I took it for a drive and the squeal was still there. I had the diff stripped and rebuilt as both pinion bearing where very worn. My car had just over 50k miles on the clock.
Regarding the diff seals is it possible that the breather tube is plugged.
I found the breather tube on my Nissan Titan to be plugged and lucky for me the axle seals ( which is a common problem on Titan ) had not yet started to leak.
My dealer hadn't even suggested any kind of preventative maintenance until I pointed out to the the number of videos on Youtube for Tundra and Titan trucks with the same problem. The tube was indeed plugged and they added an extension hose up higher to the underside of the bed.
I also remember Skrrt Garage on YouTube did a video about his breather tube being plugged up when he was changing his fluid on the rear diff of his 2015 R
I also blame JLR for not having a maintenance schedule to include front and rear diff, transfer case and transmission fluid changes.
I found the breather tube on my Nissan Titan to be plugged and lucky for me the axle seals ( which is a common problem on Titan ) had not yet started to leak.
My dealer hadn't even suggested any kind of preventative maintenance until I pointed out to the the number of videos on Youtube for Tundra and Titan trucks with the same problem. The tube was indeed plugged and they added an extension hose up higher to the underside of the bed.
I also remember Skrrt Garage on YouTube did a video about his breather tube being plugged up when he was changing his fluid on the rear diff of his 2015 R
I also blame JLR for not having a maintenance schedule to include front and rear diff, transfer case and transmission fluid changes.
Last edited by Phantomf4collector; Mar 24, 2021 at 05:25 PM. Reason: spelling
Uh....no.
Regarding the diff seals is it possible that the breather tube is plugged.
I found the breather tube on my Nissan Titan to be plugged and lucky for me the axle seals ( which is a common problem on Titan ) had not yet started to leak.
My dealer hadn't even suggested any kind of preventative maintenance until I pointed out to the the number of videos on Youtube for Tundra and Titan trucks with the same problem. The tube was indeed plugged and they added an extension hose up higher to the underside of the bed.
I also remember Skrrt Garage on YouTube did a video about his breather tube being plugged up when he was changing his fluid on the rear diff of his 2015 R
I also blame JLR for not having a maintenance schedule to include front and rear diff, transfer case and transmission fluid changes.
I found the breather tube on my Nissan Titan to be plugged and lucky for me the axle seals ( which is a common problem on Titan ) had not yet started to leak.
My dealer hadn't even suggested any kind of preventative maintenance until I pointed out to the the number of videos on Youtube for Tundra and Titan trucks with the same problem. The tube was indeed plugged and they added an extension hose up higher to the underside of the bed.
I also remember Skrrt Garage on YouTube did a video about his breather tube being plugged up when he was changing his fluid on the rear diff of his 2015 R
I also blame JLR for not having a maintenance schedule to include front and rear diff, transfer case and transmission fluid changes.
Bringing my 2014 V8-S into Tampa Jaguar tomorrow. I have a grinding noise coming from my center console area. Its very odd, the noise only occurs after the car is warm and i have stopped, placed it in park and start driving again. The noise only happens in the first couple of gears, up to 30mph.
At San Francisco jaguar when I got my rear and replaced it was basically $5000 out the door parts (axles too) and labor included that’s with some of the highest labor rates in the country I actually didn’t think that was that pricey considering it’s a jag. Luckily warranty covered it.
I also have a whining noise emanating from the rear. I recorded the whine noise on my cell phone and had the Paramus Jaguar technician listen to it. We took it out for a drive and while exiting Jaguar lot he immediately heard the whine and said go back don’t even go on the road. He said sounds like differential and a date for further evaluation before JLR approves warranty work. I have extended warranty on my car. I’ll keep everyone posted. My service advisor stated depending on the evaluation they will either rebuild or replace.
Frank
Frank
I have both a whinding noise and grinding, unfortunately my car is out of warranty with close to 70k miles. Super nervous to find out what the issue may be. Weirdest part is that it's only at low speeds thru the first couple of gears.
quick update- the grinding/chattering was coming from the exhaust, it was rubbing up against the support beam because both motor-mounts were collapsed. I had them both replaced as well as the transmission bolt mount, set me back $900. Its amazing how a 1/2 inch can change the angles on the headers and everything down the line. I haven't heard the noise since, glad it wasn't my RD or timing chain.
Noises can be difficult to track down - on my previous XK8 I had a stone caught in the brake shield Ithey make quite some noise!) and a "knowledgeable" neighbour told me my exhaust was dragging on the ground! Amazingly easy to fix an exhaust by slackening a front wheel and retightening it.
Update on my differential whine, JLR approved a new differential replacement. Hopefully it will be at Paramus jaguar tomorrow, AJ my service advisor will notify me when it arrives. I'll follow up when it's in my hands and after drive.
DC
I purchased my jag with 30k mikes. Pinion gear seal replaced at 32k with I presume with new fluid. Always had a rear whine at first at 65 mph and wasn’t very loud but I heard it. Technician said tire noise but to be honest it wasn’t very noticeable. Fast forward to 42k miles, very loud and recorded. The whine just progressively got louder with mileage. So on a positive note I’ll have a new differential after covering 42k miles, I will replace the dif fluid every 10k miles to keep it happy. This has been the only issue I’ve had. I put injector cleaner in every 3k miles to keep injectors happy. I check the coolant regularly so hopefully no issues there and I removed the engine cover. I only put on the CF cover when on extended trips when rain is forecast on multiple days. All good as they say.

DC
Worryingly there seems to be more and more cases of diff and e diff failures on the f's.
There have been oil leaks documented on quite a few, but worryingly it appears that cars are losing their diffs, evident by strange noises from the rear, at anywhere from 25 ~50k miles.
I'm in the process of collating info (as I did quite a few years ago regarding underbody brace corrosion that got accepted by Jag UK as a build issue) and need help from guys over your side of the pond and beyond.
I'm yet to find any explanations from dealers regarding why the diffs fail, after all they just swap out the whole unit as opposed to diagnose and fix them, but I'd put money o it being oil contamination, and early break down of the lubricating properties perhaps?
So anyone that's had issues, I'd be glad to hear from you, as I would any diagnosis of why failure occurred.
Be good to know which diff/car model and mileage covered too.
TIA
There have been oil leaks documented on quite a few, but worryingly it appears that cars are losing their diffs, evident by strange noises from the rear, at anywhere from 25 ~50k miles.
I'm in the process of collating info (as I did quite a few years ago regarding underbody brace corrosion that got accepted by Jag UK as a build issue) and need help from guys over your side of the pond and beyond.
I'm yet to find any explanations from dealers regarding why the diffs fail, after all they just swap out the whole unit as opposed to diagnose and fix them, but I'd put money o it being oil contamination, and early break down of the lubricating properties perhaps?
So anyone that's had issues, I'd be glad to hear from you, as I would any diagnosis of why failure occurred.
Be good to know which diff/car model and mileage covered too.
TIA








