Thanks. I will drive for an hour , and also put the battery on charge for 24 hours. How can the BCM be reset ? disconnect battery for 20 mins and reconnect ?

 

Disconnecting the negative battery cable for a minute will reset the BCM.

 

The door issues are not a battery problem at this point.

I think you are having an issue with the wiring into the door. If you open the door and repeat the test, does it change? What about moving the wiring bundle where it passes though the door jamb? Is there any water trapped in the door? Pull the inner door panel and check the door control module, make sure it's not wet or corroded or having any other issues.

Does it matter from left to right door switches when you move the window? Do they both act up the same?

 

What is meant by ‘reset the BCM’ is using a code reader or the dealer to instruct it that the battery has been replaced. Disconnecting power doesn’t do this.

I didn’t do this when I replaced the F-type battery, and noticed no ill effects. Some say it could reduce the life of the new battery.

 

It doesnt matter if I am using the left or right door switches , the issue stays the same. I havent opened the door panel to see rust / water etc. Additionally I also noticed that the same issue happens when I open and close the passenger door. See video.

 

Look into your wiring to the passenger door then, and then the module. It's on the network with many other modules and any damage can cause things to act up on the rest of the network as well, your symptoms match with a faulty door module or a damaged door wiring harness. The flexing point of the loom where it goes into the door gets damaged with age and stretches/bends, can break the coating on the wires and cause shorts, or break the strands inside the insulation and cause intermittent opens. Yours feels more like a short with the extra symptoms, my first check would be the module itself, as corrosion internally will short the network in the module and become more apparent when it's under load (drawing more power to raise the window). Let me know what you find when you open it up, I can walk you through the testing of the electrical circuit as well if you need.

 

So I charged the battery fully for 24 hours , and also drove for 2 hours straight after that - it did not fix the issue.

I was going to open up the door panel as per @RoverJoe 's suggestion , but then noticed something that i thought i'd share with the group. When the erratic movement of the window happens , I heard a clocking sound co-inciding with that from within the boot of the car. Upon careful listening it is emanating from somewhere between the driverside-rear wheel well and the battery area. The clicking is not coming from the battery. Dont know if that gives you all any additional ideas , otherwise will open up the door panel tomorrow.

Thank youl

 

Probably relay clicking in the fuse box, if there's a wiring short it could cause something to be turned off/on and trigger a relay.

 

Yes, note that the control panel/fusebox/relay center is under the passenger-side footwell, under the carpet.

What with the carpet muffling the sounds you could think that noises are coming from ANYWHERE!

When any door is opened, there are a few relays that energize & click....LISTEN to see if those could be your noise source.

 

I checked very carefully , had a buddy roll up the windows as I was near the boot , its definitely coming from somewhere between the battery and the rear-driverside wheel well.

 

There are fuse/relay boxes all over the car.

 

When you install a new battery, you are supposed to reset the Battery Monitoring System to the new battery. This is said to need Jag service to do but I use my OBD tool, and some battery specific stores can also perform. I have no idea if or what this may affect.

You normally have to perform the
Door Window Motor Initialization
it's very simple.

Just put window all the way down but keep on the down switch another 5 sec, then put it all the way up but keep on the up switch another 5 sec. This should reset the auto up and down feature. The issues you describe sound very different than troubles this could cause, so I doubt this could help. The auto up monitors motor current to stop the motor should anything block the window progression, like a finger. If anything inhibits the window mechanism, the window will stop. It will then let you inch it up per switch click just as you described.


I'd begin by looking for anything restricting the window path upward. As our cars age more, the weatherstripping materials can break off and lodge in the window path. It's always easier to correct a physical thing than an electronic thing. So we'll hope for this.

If you open the door panel, you should find this controller inside. Begin by visual inspection of these connectors for evidence of corrosion or water intrusion. Then unplug to inspect every pin in each connector and module for pin recession, water, corrosion, poor wiring crimps, etc... You can gently tug on each wire to ensure the pin clip has the pin locked into position.

I'd place voltmeter on VBATT and GND. With engine running you should measure >14.0V <15.0V. If not, verify battery voltage is within this same range. If not while the engine is running, the battery charge system is probably not working correctly. Typically charge voltage is between 14.5 and 14.95V at the battery.

This controller handles everything in the door so bad power here would likely cause the symptoms you listed.

If voltage at the window controller is good, then while rolling up the window monitor voltage here. If V drops to <13.5V here, there is definitely faulty power or ground wiring to this module. If voltage is low, measure Voltage between module GND and a ground point inside the body, also measure while the window is moving up. If the GND to Body Ground voltage >0.1VDC, there is a problem with the ground wiring. If not, the wiring problem is on the VBATT, positive side.

If voltage is good to the controller's input power, move to the MS-CAN H and MS-CAN L. To Test first disconnect the starter battery. Then measure Ohms between MS-CAN H and L. You should see 60-65 Ohms between these wires whether connected to this controller or not.

 

The window controller is powered from the Central Junction Box by a 25A fuse, BF28, that is fed from the Battery Junction box by a 50A fuse, FBL05 which feeds both L & R window controllers.

All I spec here is assuming Right Hand Drive, some things could be backwards for a LH Drive vehicle.
The Window control module is known as PWC or DWC whichever the right side is for you. So the Driver Window Controller, on the right, has a LIN connection from both doors which control windows up/down, and mirror adjustments for both doors. It seems this is working since you get the same response from both.

There is a transit relay which is drawn here as normally open. And I think that 25A fuse only lets one window at a time operate in transit mode. Anyway, circuits 4765 and 6160 feed each door window controller. This is the only relay I found in this circuit. Since this circuit is not used normally, I don't think it could cause any harm now.

Regardless, as mentioned by another, the CJB surely has many relays to chatter but it's not in the boot, but tucked under the dash or at least within the cabin. In the boot we only have the Battery Junction Box, QCCM (lots of relays), and the Power Supply Distribution Box (many relays). The Power Supply Distribution Box is not in this circuit. If system voltage drops below 9.65 VDC (correct me if my mem failed here), most controllers will stumble or fail.

If voltage to a single controller at any time falls too low, that controller operation will be unpredictable. If a single controller's voltage drops below battery voltage, the power wiring to that controller is not well connected. Poor power connections can disrupt any or all controllers due to high noise on the power circuit, known as harmonic distortion. And of course, a failing module, or one with poor power connections, are well known for bus network data corruption.

If this were my car, I'd get the door panel off and hope to find something physically blocking the window pathway. Maybe the guides are out of adjustment. It may be very obvious what's wrong just by looking.

On this system there is a LIN bus, Local In??? Network bus. This network ties together windows door locks, seats, blind spot thing, and about everything you use while in the cabin. This network is in common with everything you noticed with the window operation, including the visor light.


Here's the door ajar switch. I think you mentioned this alert also popped up.

If it sees the door open, it'll stop the window

 

Our F suffered from a Low Battery due to me installing the Carplay adapter (doors & interior lights on, for long periods).

So, I had to reinitialize the auto-up windows. Done it in the past but this time, only the DRIVER'S side Auto-up works!

If necessary, I'll disconnect the battery and re-initialize it again...anybody ever had that happen to THEM?

 

It's happening to me right now due to a smog check. Disconnected negative battery cable for a couple minutes to reset the auto ups but only the driver side has recovered the auto up. I have tried the procedure several times for passenger side but no go. Very frustrating. I only disconnected the Neg the first time - Let us know if you are successful doing the whole disconnect again.

 

Try resetting the window auto up while driving.
I say this because I have needed to reset the window auto up/down three times now (on both sides) and every single time the reset procedure worked only while I was driving. No idea why this is so.

 

The manual says to go full up and full down 5 full cycles. I've never done that, but I suppose i would.

 

weird... I've done my auto windows a couple days later. I don't know why you guys have to do a power reset.

Perhaps the 5x up and down cycles, with 3 sec after full up and full down may be necessary

 

Could it be because the charge voltage is higher while driving? Definitely lost in the great guessing abyss now.

 

That has not happened to me yet.

I fixed my smog check insomnia. Well sort of, I got an icon t10 at HF. It exits gracefully letting all controllers go to sleep. Even after smog check, just run anything and it'll shutdown correctly. I think I'd get a lower-level unit if I could do-over. And I think HF unit is made by another, so they may sell it for less.

I've already saved >$7k by using this tool