So purchased my 17 F-Type S about 30 days ago and as described by so many had a annoying rattle sounded like metal on metal tinks or plastic rubbing on plastic that sounded like it was coming from behind passenger headrest or trunk. Either way it was driving me nuts so I stripped the entire trunk, with all panels removed I got into the trunk and had my wife drive around. I could hear the rattle right in front of me on the passenger rear side but I knew then it wasn’t inside. I opened the trunk and had my wife drive around and rattle sound got louder!!! I now knew it was something under the car which isn’t talked about much here on the forums. I put the car on ramps and spent a good 4 hours under the car moving things, banging things to replicate the sound. I was finally about to give up when I found this rubber 1/4” house by the rear bumper that seemed loose when I touched it I knew that was the problem!!! As wind hits the hose it bangs against some plastic over the wheel well and I knew I had it. I zip tied it to a nearby mount which wouldn’t allow it to bang against the plastic. There was also a connector to the light in the picture below that I zip tied as it was also loose but I know 100% it was the hose. What the hose does??? I’m not sure on my Porsche the battery had a rubber hose attached to it and maybe it’s the same thing on this car?? I don’t know what the hose does but I guarantee you it’s a noise we all hear on these cars and people can’t pinpoint. Hope this helps!!!!!

This is the hose that rattles when wind hits it

This is the Mount I zip tied the rubber hose to eliminate the banging against plastic over wheel wel

This is a connector that I zip tied as it was loose as well

 

Is that the drain pipe from the filler cap recess that another member found dragging on the ground recently?

 

I think it could be the filler cap drain, makes sense. I just know that the rubber hose that makes the rattle sound a lot of people are complaining about.

 

Congrats and great detective work! I have a 2017 premium, and that noise had me stumped.. it's the "tink" sound that you describe. I don't have jack stands or a lift.. is it possible to get under the car in that right rear corner to do the tie wrap?

 

Well I’m 225 pounds so for me I would get stuck under the car, you’ll need to put it on a ramp or something to elevate it by 6-8” good luck, it’s so worth the trouble to get rid of that rattle

 

I just had a poke around under the rear of mine and easily found this offending tube.
Little doubt it is the fuel overflow drain tube which runs from under the little drain hole in the bottom of the filler surround (under the fuel filler cover), designed to drain any spilled fuel (or water) out.
Mine was fitted correctly with the bottom end still fitting in the two clips shown in the top/first pic, but the top end of the tube was just waving in the breeze loose enough to possibly rattle against something, not that I've ever heard any such rattle.
So I thought I would tighten it up a bit, by pulling the tube out of those two bottom clips (it just slides up and out), poking it through/around the adjacent wiring cable, then feeding the end back through the bottom clips.
All was going to plan until I tried to feed it back through the bottom clips, the bottom end now didn't quite reach the second/lowest clip.
So I gently pulled it down to see if I could give it some more length and suddenly "pop", it came completely undone/unplugged at the top end!
No way to reconnect it without pulling off the wheel then pulling the wheel arch liner out, so I have pulled it right out and left it off the car for now.
I can't see how leaving it off could cause a problem as I never spill any fuel (well maybe a drip or two!) and I have never seen any water in the filler surround, and even if a few drops get in there they will simply fall onto the top/back of the wheel arch liner.
Moral of the story - don't tug on that tube!

 

In retrospect you can see that it is short in vipretr first photo. It has retracted upwards and no longer engaged in the lower anchor point so the extra slack created above flaps about. The correct fix would be to gentle pull the tube down to engage the lower clip and this will get rid of the flapping slack above without having to zip tie the slack as there won’t be any left over that needs attending too.

 

Thing is my tube was fully engaged in the lower clip and (in hindsight) had not enough slack to pull down much further, maybe a centimetre at most, yet still the upper part where it curved towards then over the wheel arch was loose enough to flap about against things. Maybe not as much as the OP's tube but still enough to potentially rattle.
Also the tube is not held all that tightly by those clips and I reckon that if I had tried to pull it down a little while still in the clips it would simply have sprung straight back up to it's original position.
I would say mine was how it was meant to be and "they all do that sir".

 

Hoping that this tube was not so far in under that car that I could slide under and see what was going on. In this case, the tube was not in its lower clip, so heeding the other warnings, I gently pressed it back into place. That still left a lot of "flap", so I got a zip tie and found a nice hole in adjacent sheet metal. Needed all the finger dexterity I could muster to engage the zip tie and tighten it up a bit. That still left the end of the tube loose in that clip, so I put some RTV on a popsicle stick and spread it over and around the tube and the clip, being careful not to get any in the drain hole end of that tube. I sure hope this works, that noise is such an annoyance. MANY thanks to vipretr for all the time and work to isolate this. Photo is the location of the sheet metal hole and zip-tie, second is the very end of the tube in its clip, where I put the RTV

 

the hose is too short and should be long enough to go through both body clips

 

Impressive detective work there! I don't think I have the rattle but this looks like a good thing to check anyway.

I'm just trying to figure out exactly where this is located and how to get to. It it's obviously somewhere under the gas fill panel but how do you actually get to it? Is it a matter of jacking the car up, removing the right rear wheel and removing the wheel arch liner or is there some easier way?

 

remove the fuel bucket and the filler neck . reach inside and remove hose , check for a kink because i awesome that is y it seems short Failing that take hose to a automotive jobber store and buy genarick hose and cut to lenght after installation

 

No need to remove anything, just jack the right rear corner up (use the normal jacking point) poke your head underneath and the tube (clear plastic) is plain as day, running down the back RHS of the rear bumper.
If you haven't lowered the car there is a good chance you don't even need to jack the car up to see the tube but to fiddle with the upper/middle part (that potentially rattles) I think you would really struggle without jacking up that right rear corner.

 

Just pour some water down the tiny hole by the filler neck. You will see the water exiting behind the rear wheel. How do I know? I filled up today and after the pump clicked off, I tried to add 10 cents more. I looked down and the gas just missed my shoe. I guess stop means stop.

 

It's at the right rear corner. Get your bearings from the location of the fuel filler door ... standard suspension/not lowered. Put on a pair of protective glasses and on your back or side, slide under and look up. With sufficient light, you should see the tube, and the location vipretr used to fasten his zip tie, and perhaps the small hole in the adjacent sheet metal where I fastened mine. While I was pleased to correct this tube issue, it did NOT resolve the 'tink' noise that I now think is in the passenger door... probably loose wire connectors flopping around. UGH.

 

Thanks for the tips guys. Will definitely take a look at mine too.