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On the other hand if those are original P zeros, you probably got all you can get out of them based off of all the negative comments posted about the OEM Pirellis.
Bit I do agree with EhiteTardis. You should definitely get the alignment done when you replace them.
Does this look like typical front tire wear? 19K miles and I believe these are original to car. It's the unevenness that i'm questioning.
Definitely not normal. As others suggest, you have an alignment issue or worn suspension component(s). Likely just alignment. On front tires you would more likely expect to see the outer shoulders to have the most wear from cornering, and not the inner shoulder.
Tires look shot anyway, so be sure to get an alignment with the new tires, or you will eat up your new ones as well.
How are your rear tires?
From reading on this forum, it seems they wear out faster than fronts.
FYI, I had the dealer check alignment on my new 2021 before delivery.
It was within spec but they did tweak it a bit.
Does this look like typical front tire wear? 19K miles and I believe these are original to car. It's the unevenness that i'm questioning.
I bought my car in July 2018 CPO from JLR with 17K miles and new P Zeros installed and aligned by the JLR dealership. The same thing happened to my front tires even though I got to 34K miles before I replaced them. There is another thread on this forum regarding this issue where a JLR tech with many years of experience advocated not using the Jaguar alignment spec because this will happen every time. I pasted it below and used his methodology for my alignment of my new PS4S tires. The drive of the car afterwards was like night and day but I couldn't really tell if it was the different alignment spec, the new PS4S tires or both. Hope this helps:it is NOT a specific set of specs other than I set toe to the inner most spec recommended BY JAGUAR loaded in alignment machines! And hopefully so did they. and then push out on inside of the front tires to see if THAT CAR/YOUR CAR likes that toe setting. if you do this you will find that the toe goes into the middle which is what it will do when driving. I have found that many shops/techs like to set in the middle on the alignment machine not taking into account that DRIVING ON THE ROAD affects the suspension by moving to toe out while driving! And causing more inner tire block tread wear. If you're in the middle on the machine many times you will be toed out driving and wearing the inner tread block more and then on the machine the response will always be "YOU'RE ALL IN THE GREEN YOU SHOULD BE GOOD. " And as I stated only 3 cars in 22 years I didn't have to touch with a wrench, but many in the green. So I would bet a month’s pay that chances are I WOULDN"T BE HAPPY, based on experience. Maybe they are. If set with toe in and then checked like MERCEDES recommends by using a pressor bar(I push out with my arms till the slack/play is taken out) you will then simulate what YOUR car will do on the road while driving. AND this covers virtually all cars and drivers wanted and needed compromises for alignment. Unlike the customer that just sought me out to align his F type track car. He said in understeers too much for him so after discussion I set it up with toe out almost to the red in front and toe in for the rear,. This will make the car want to rotate more going into (oversteer)a corner but not too much cause it needs to be stable in the middle. Too much and you'll have a drift car. Then gave him the printout and said for him to make notes at his track session in February and then I can adjust accordingly based on his feedback. That all being said I need to get back to work and make money cause I sure don't on here [img]file:///C:/Users/rbstjohn/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image001.gif[/img] EDIT; I realize you may not understand or maybe you do. Jaguar recommended specs as are almost every car and manufacturer recommended alignment specs are loaded in most every alignment machine out there. So I don't need to really provide anything except to say again that not adjusting anything ESPECIALLY after suspension repair is IMO flat out stupid. I don't know about others or the people/shop you went to. But I am pretty picky and "GOOD ENOUGH, CLOSE ENOUGH ETC" to me just doesn't cut it in many cases. And again if you follow Mercedes recommendations you will get a better alignment that is specific to YOUR car, Not the next one just like yours.
It's a 2017 that I purchased CPO with 12K on it in November of 2020. They replaced the rear tires as part of the CPO. Considering the previous owner only had 12K miles in 3 years, I wounder if the rears were replaced due to "natural" wear or generation of smoke.
That type of wear is typical for an F-Type with factory alignment. The toe should be set as close to 0 on the negative side as possible. That toe yields for me relatively even wear despite the very aggressive negative camber resulting from my H&R suspension.
That type of wear is typical for an F-Type with factory alignment. The toe should be set as close to 0 on the negative side as possible. That toe yields for me relatively even wear despite the very aggressive negative camber resulting from my H&R suspension.
The toe setting at 0...is that the stock setting or what you are recommending to resolve the uneven wear?
Here are two photos of the Continental (summer only) tires I took off my 2017 a couple of months ago. I had my JLR dealer put new ones on, Continental Extreme Contact DWS, with their alignment and Road Force balancing. The selling dealer said they put on 'new' front tires, but I wanted all seasons, so got rid of all the existing ones. These photos are of those tires that came on the car...and I think they were the second set of tires, Pirellis came with it, according to documentation (whatever that's worth). Hard for me to say if the alignment was bad at the time those tires were on the car, but there are better minds here than mine. I got free rotation with the set of 4 tires, so in 5K miles or so, can have them checked.