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I'm also in the same situation, I need to get this done, but I'd rather piece together the best parts from OEM/various vendors. Thank you for posting this, it's really helpful to have a list to build on, do you know offhand of any parts that might be different with a 2018 R vs the 2015?
Pretty sure they are all the same, for me it's just a matter of the pros on here making sure I didn't miss anything small (think I have all the big things in there)
My 2016 F-Type R has just over 33k miles on it. I'm planning a 5,000 mile trip next month in it, so I thought it would be prudent to have the Y-pipe and other bits updated now rather than face potentially doing them (or a full engine replacement) on the road.
FYI, the cost at the local JLR dealer would have been over $5k and, while they would use the one-part plastic JLR manifolds (without a seam like mine had originally), they wouldn't use the newer metal JLR parts or any aftermarket metal parts. I can understand their logic since they give a 1-year warranty on their work and they have the backing of JLR's OEM testing to rely on, but I prefer to go with metal parts.
The cost at a local independent shop that has been around for many decades was only $3.5K for everything (Y-pipe, rear crossover, upper front coolant pipe, thermostat, gaskets, hoses, o-rings). They use alloy parts for everything possible and the job will only take a couple of days. I also had them check a couple of "while you're in there" items: the supercharger coupler and the rear diff seal. The coupler was fine, but the diff seal needed to be redone, as I suspected from the evidence on my garage floor.
I know this isn't a unique story but the reason I opened this thread is to tell you I dodged a big bullet and I recommend you do the same. My car isn't high-mileage but it was a failure waiting to happen. The crossover pipe was already leaking, which explains the occasional coolant smell that I detected. The Y-pipe, though, was ready to go at any time. It wasn't the seam splitting, however. The problem was both of the pipe ends going into the block. When they removed the Y-pipe, everything below the o-ring grooves disintegrated. I guess it was cooked by the heat of the block until it was completely brittle. I'm so glad I had the job done preventatively and I wouldn't have know to do so without this forum, so thanks.
Also, the same shop had a customer last month that bought an earlier Jag with only 11k miles on it, thinking it would be trouble-free for a while at that mileage. You guessed it: the Y-pipe blew within the first 1,000 miles. Fortunately, the owner shut down and didn't blow the engine. They weren't happy to have a big bill so soon but they actually got pretty lucky.
...
$3500 dollars or around £3000 pounds in English money seems a staggering amount of money to fit a aluminium Y pipe, the water pump had to be replaced on my V6 F-Type 3 months ago and that only cost £950 pounds and that included a diagnosis because they didn't know how coolant had got into the sump, they thought both head gaskets needed to be replaced at a cost of £3500 pounds but they didn't have to be, the work was all done on the warranty of course but the Supercharger had to be removed to fit a aluminium pipe, the Y pipe was replaced before i bought my Jaguar in September 2025..
Our cost for replacement pipes turned out to be ~$3500 total.
That was the cost of the EuroAMP 'high-end' kit with water pump, and some other stuff that the Jag specialist who actually installed everything recommended.
I might have considered going to the JLR dealer for the service if they would have used the metal JLR parts. Since they wouldn't use them, it was an easy decision to go with the independent shop and they used a metal rear manifold (aftermarket). They also used a thermostat with a metal housing and I didn't even realize a) the OEM uses plastic and b) alloy-bodied ones are available.
...never take your Jaguar to a Jaguar main dealership, take it to a Jaguar specialist because they charge a lot less for Labour charges !!.
Our cost for replacement pipes turned out to be ~$3500 total.
That was the cost of the EuroAMP 'high-end' kit with water pump, and some other stuff that the Jag specialist who actually installed everything recommended.
You're not too far from me - who did the work for you?
The reason for the VAP electric vacuum pump is NOT because the OEM gear pump fails!
It's because when the serpentine belts fails (for any reason) it commonly takes out the plastic vacuum tubing running from that front mounted vacuum pump to the PB booster. Now comes the REAL issue.
Try to stop your car without any PB. This is normally not a huge issue and extra pressure on the brake pedal is all that's needed. Not so on these cars. People who have lost power brakes have stated that it is almost impossible to stop the car. I mean a large man pushing as hard as he can using both feet! One guy said if this had happened on the open road he would have wrecked the car. As it was he was going slowly in his neighborhood.
This type of failure is also behind why VAP has released an improved serpentine belt tensioner.
Here is their kit and they explain why it was released. Note that apparently JLR has recognized this problem too as VAP mentions some F-Pace SVR's have the electric version from the factory. Electric Vacuum Pump Kit
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My 2016 F-Type R has just over 33k miles on it. I'm planning a 5,000 mile trip next month in it, so I thought it would be prudent to have the Y-pipe and other bits updated now rather than face potentially doing them (or a full engine replacement) on the road.
FYI, the cost at the local JLR dealer would have been over $5k and, while they would use the one-part plastic JLR manifolds (without a seam like mine had originally), they wouldn't use the newer metal JLR parts or any aftermarket metal parts. I can understand their logic since they give a 1-year warranty on their work and they have the backing of JLR's OEM testing to rely on, but I prefer to go with metal parts.
The cost at a local independent shop that has been around for many decades was only $3.5K for everything (Y-pipe, rear crossover, upper front coolant pipe, thermostat, gaskets, hoses, o-rings). They use alloy parts for everything possible and the job will only take a couple of days. I also had them check a couple of "while you're in there" items: the supercharger coupler and the rear diff seal. The coupler was fine, but the diff seal needed to be redone, as I suspected from the evidence on my garage floor.
I know this isn't a unique story but the reason I opened this thread is to tell you I dodged a big bullet and I recommend you do the same. My car isn't high-mileage but it was a failure waiting to happen. The crossover pipe was already leaking, which explains the occasional coolant smell that I detected. The Y-pipe, though, was ready to go at any time. It wasn't the seam splitting, however. The problem was both of the pipe ends going into the block. When they removed the Y-pipe, everything below the o-ring grooves disintegrated. I guess it was cooked by the heat of the block until it was completely brittle. I'm so glad I had the job done preventatively and I wouldn't have know to do so without this forum, so thanks.
Also, the same shop had a customer last month that bought an earlier Jag with only 11k miles on it, thinking it would be trouble-free for a while at that mileage. You guessed it: the Y-pipe blew within the first 1,000 miles. Fortunately, the owner shut down and didn't blow the engine. They weren't happy to have a big bill so soon but they actually got pretty lucky.
I did the coolant pipes myself in my 18 XF I use to have. Took a full day but was very doable for I believe less than $400.00 in parts at the time. Youtube is your friend.
I did the coolant pipes myself in my 18 XF I use to have. Took a full day but was very doable for I believe less than $400.00 in parts at the time. Youtube is your friend.
I was planning on doing the same. Finishing the small workshop in the backyard so that I have the space to work comfortably. Too much carp in the way from our recent move but getting there…
Also looking at the different YouTube videos and buying some of the tools that will make that task easier. Specifically, those hose clamp tools that will avoid the majority of the cursing, .
And the long ratchet tool for easier access to the bolts for the ignition coils on the driver side…
And this little guy...
Also went ahead and got a diagnostic tool based on what I read in a few posts.
Photo from a few nights ago… finally have the space to move the lift into place to mark the location of where to drill the holes. I have a MaxJax two-post lift. This is what I used in our previous house because of low ceiling height… here I have the ceiling height but not the budget to get a new one. This old lift will have to do.
I'm also in the same situation, I need to get this done, but I'd rather piece together the best parts from OEM/various vendors. Thank you for posting this, it's really helpful to have a list to build on, do you know offhand of any parts that might be different with a 2018 R vs the 2015?
I like this approach... let me build my list for my V6 following that. I want all metal/AL parts as much as possible, but any gaskets will have to be genuine parts... I saw a video with the example of the gasket that comes with the aluminum outlet tube. Inferior quality to that of the original part (gasket part number AJ811539). But even for original parts, got to shop around as the prices do vary significantly from vendor to vendor...
Jaguar only has the plastic replacement for the Engine Coolant Outlet Flange/HVAC Heater Pipe (part number AJ814053) so I will look for an aftermarket aluminum unit. Same with the thermostat housing (part number AJ814048)
While in there, not sure if I should also be replacing injectors and ignition coils... not sure, those are easier to get to if they go bad... so I might buy them and just stash them away in the parts bin in case I need them in the near future...
I like this approach... let me build my list for my V6 following that. I want all metal/AL parts as much as possible, but any gaskets will have to be genuine parts... I saw a video with the example of the gasket that comes with the aluminum outlet tube. Inferior quality to that of the original part (gasket part number AJ811539). But even for original parts, got to shop around as the prices do vary significantly from vendor to vendor...
Jaguar only has the plastic replacement for the Engine Coolant Outlet Flange/HVAC Heater Pipe (part number AJ814053) so I will look for an aftermarket aluminum unit. Same with the thermostat housing (part number AJ814048)
While in there, not sure if I should also be replacing injectors and ignition coils... not sure, those are easier to get to if they go bad... so I might buy them and just stash them away in the parts bin in case I need them in the near future...
It might be better now, but I have read accounts of the aftermarket aluminum "heater" pipe at the back having leaks. Might want to pressure test it for leaks and need for deburring. I opted for the factory plastic pipe - banking on the fact I can get another 10 years out of that. Also going with OEM water pump and thermostat. While you have the SC off, consider changing:
1) the coupler, new spring model or solid
2) the hose under the SC
3) remove the insulation from.under the sc
4) replace.the vc bolts if they look heinous
5) change the sc oil
I *think* my list is mostly complete, waiting for someone more experienced to verify I do think I missed the hose under the SC, and thr accessory drive belt, should change those, will add the part numbers for those here in a bit.
Based on what folks have posted already and adding all the "while-in-there" parts, this is the list that I have so far:
This is for a 2019 Jaguar F-Type P340
Like I mentioned earlier... that is just so that I have an idea on the parts, part numbers, pricing, and one option of where to get it. When it comes time to place the order I will need to shop around as pricing varies greatly for the same part... But it gives me a ballpark of what I am looking at.
Also, I was not sure on what brand of ignition coils to go with... so I just picked Bremi to have a price reference... need to find out if that is what folks here recommend or if I should go with a different brand.
What is not there are some of the tools that I have been buying to make life easier servicing this car.
If it is the one that connects to the throttle body, then that would be: C2Z18677
Yep, I read it becomes pretty brittle over time sitting in the valley of death. Also read to be careful when you set the SC back onto the block, it can get pinched. And apologies, I was confusing myself, this part is on my list already, AJ813614 (different for the V8). My current list looks like:
Last edited by bfrank1972; Feb 5, 2026 at 02:39 PM.
I have never had to replace a coil on these engines.
I get the idea of doing some incidental parts while you're in there, but this seems like tremendous overkill. The car isn't falling apart after just a few years.
I have never had to replace a coil on these engines.
I get the idea of doing some incidental parts while you're in there, but this seems like tremendous overkill. The car isn't falling apart after just a few years.
Hah mine may be falling apart slightly more, being 11 years old now, although I am on the original seamed pipes and I would think my car would have detonated in a fireball by now.
Tried to limit my parts to equivalent of the what is in the EuroAmp full kit, with a few extra pipes/hoses thrown in. Also probably going to upgrade my tensioner to the VAP one (I have both pulleys) as an extra, but going to skip the brake vaccuum pump delete for now.
See anything glaring I am missing from my list? Pulling the trigger on the rest of the parts tomorrow. Thank you
I got my alloy bits from EuroAmp. Kit included all pipes, water pump, t-stat, and various other bits, as well as supercharger gaskets and solid coupler. I had mechanic do supercharger oil and belt while in there.
never take your F-Type to the Jaguar main franchise dealership, find an independent Jaguar specialist instead who know what they are doing at 3rd of the price of a JLR who charge £250 pounds an hour for labour in England, i had a new water pump and an aluminium pipe fitted under the supercharger last October and they only charged about £85 per hour but fortunately for me it was repaired under the warranty..car manufacturers and especially BMW deliberately fit cheap perishable pipes under the bonnet/hood because it keeps their mechanics busy and keeps the cash flowing in...
