Ooh thank you, did not pick up on that!

What size do I need? Thinking M6 x 20 or 25mm, maybe get some washers just in case?

 

I am almost positive it is M6 x 25 mm. Hopefully others that have done it will chime in.



From this video he mentioned 20 mm:

https://youtu.be/JaPCktESH8A?si=on_Lnmyh1VVT7KE2

 

The later plastic ones also have the small tab and require a shorter bolt, I usually cut down one of the old water pump bolts to a suitable length so the head matches the rest of the bolts.

 

Hey Robtrt8 - quick question if you don't mind, AJ813002 symposer plug, is this actually what's needed to delete the symposer altogether? From what I've researched to remove the symposer I need to:

1) Block the port on the back of the SC (that part number above I think)
2) Leave the solenoid wired up, not sure what you did to keep things tidy and secure there
3) Cap the vacuum lines
4) Block off the cabin tube

Anything else?

Thanks,
Brad

 

Had to double check. That’s the way Gage remembers doing it.

 

The solenoid can stay attached to the bracket it normally lives on. That bracket, with the solenoid, gets reinstalled. It's the output of the solenoid you want to cap off.

 

Much appreciated guys, so did you guys use the official JLR cap or did you fabricate your own?

 

The Land Rover part.

 

VAP sells one too.

 

I used the VAP one since I had ordered a bunch of stuff from them. I 3d printed a cap for the cabin tube and solenoid output. You can get a regular vacuum cap from you local autoparts store that will do for the solenoid output though.