I was driving spiritedly on a twisty road and all shifts were at redline - after two minutes of that I had sudden power loss. When pulling over I heard a terrible noise from the engine.

After having the car towed homme I learned about the supercharger coupler and changed it. I also bought a new fuel pump and tried it in both positions. The noise remains.

When I take off the supercharger belt the noise is the same. I also checked the Variable Valve Actuators and cleaned the oil passage with compressed air and brake clean.

When I use a vibration rod I can feel the vibration at the top, front, and bottom of the engine. The vibation is everywhere. I can not identify the source.

I changed the oil and there were no metal flakes in the oil. I just bought the car and have no idea how old this oil was, it was black.

The codes I got were of no help. They indicated the sc coupler, fuel insufficient, and camshaft timing.

This is a 2014 3.0 without mods and 56k miles.

Any idea what the problem is?

Here is the video:



Thank you for your help.

 

Sounds like pistons hitting valves to me!
If so the engine is toast.
My guess is one or more timing chains lost tension, skipped two or more cam sprocket teeth, and the engine went out of time.

 

To me, the low knock sounds like a rod bearing, but get an opinion by a shop specializing in Jags. Theoretically, it "may" be fixable without pulling the engine. "If" it's a rod bearing, that's fixable from below (pulling the pan). If it's a valvetrain thing, then the head(s) and front of the engine needs to come off.

 

That was my initial thought but I thought I'd give the easier to fix items a try first.

To get to the rod bearings, do I just need to take the oil pan off?

What is the round 4" parton the lower front of the engine? It is leaking oil. Could that make the noise? I have not taken it off since I don't know what it is and what it ties into.

Do you know where I can get a service bulletin on rod bearing replacement?

Thank you for your help.

 

I can only guess you are talking about the number 1 high pressure fuel pump.
It sits on the lower RHS of the engine towards the front and the number 2 pump sits in line behind it.
Although not all that common these pumps are known to fail and then rattle and given the oil leak and "shut off after 20 seconds" I suppose it is possible the rattle coming from the engine is a failed HPFP.

 

I bought one new one and tried in both positions, the noise remained both times.

The part I'm asking about is larger and is on the front side of the engine, below the crank pulley on the left.

 

Gotcha.
Pretty sure it is just the cover for the auxiliary driveshaft sprocket.
A chain runs off the crank to two sprockets, one of which drives the oil pump and the other drives a shaft which in turn drives the two HP fuel pumps, and that round piece is just the external cover for that second sprocket/shaft.
See the attached pdf (from the AJ133 V8 Technical Training pdf but the V6 is the same).

 

That sounds like an internal engine noise. I'd check the cam timing just to be sure that's not causing the issue. I've heard they can jump time if the tensioners fail. If it's pistons hitting valves, you will probably lose compression as the valves will bend a little.

 

Are files like this one accessible by owners? Where?

"See the attached pdf (from the AJ133 V8 Technical Training pdf but the V6 is the same)."

 

Yep I have that pdf and several other useful ones (F-Type V6 Workshop Manual, 2010-2011 XFR Workshop Manual etc) in my Dropbox and I have given open access to these docs to forum members. The AJ133 Technical Training pdf is freely available on the net but many others such as the Workshop Manuals are not, they are or at least were pay to play only but I and and some others have posted links to our copies.
However I lost access to my Dropbox a few weeks ago (it seems the bar stewards now insist I make a paid subscription rather than using the previously free version) and no matter what I try I can no longer access/open my Dropbox or provide links to the files in it.
I have posted links to these docs several times in several threads over the years so those links are around here somewhere, just hard to find.
However forum member DJS has all of those docs and much much more in his Dropbox, and he has posted a link to his Dropbox many times.
I can't open any of his Dropbox links but you should be able to find his "general" link somewhere.
Or else just PM him and ask him to post up his general link again.

 

Does the knock fluctuate with rpm? If you rev does it speed up? Really sounds like rod knock and a spun bearing. If your oil level was lowish and you were really hitting the corners hard, it could possibly starve the pump. Send an oil sample to Blackstone while you're diagnosing this and see what they say. If it's a spun bearing your metal levels will be off the charts even if you can't see large flakes. Unfortunately if that's the case a simple bearing swap won't fix it. Your crank journals are almost certainly already scarred up. But yes, you should be able to see the crank with the pan off. Whether or not you can remove the pan without dropping the subframe I don't know. I have only done the job on BMW's which require SF removal but I haven't been under the jag enough to remember if it's in the way of the pan or not.

 

I listened to some rod knock videos on YouTube today and sadly that is exactly how my engine sounds.

The oil pan should come right off if I remember correctly.

The question is if it is just one bearing or several. I'll take the oil pan off and check.

There are some people who have successfuly polished the rod ends and crank with the engine in the car and before installing new bearings.

Might be worth a try.

 

Here’s a link to my Dropbox, with all the stuff I’ve accumulated (mostly from here), including Oz’s workshop manual, which has gotten a lot of use.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/wgv3e86yc...glFoM3xOa?dl=0

 

Thank you all for contributing.

Here is how to recondition and polish the crank journals without taking the engine out:


I just have to find a way to also polish the connecing rods.

Any ideas?

 

For what it's worth this reminds me of the conrod bearing issue I had a number of years ago in my last car.

In my case the engine was a MY14 AJ126, so produced some time in 2013 and one of the early ones which could have faulty conrod bearings. IIRC it had some 32k miles on it when it happened... during a very spirited drive including some rev limiter bouncing I heard this horrible screeching and squealing sound from the engine, followed by knocking. Stopped the car immediately, let it rest for a while and then restarted and let it idle... the screeching continued for a while and then went away. Just the knocking remained. The sound sped up with revs and it was a bit slower and deeper than the one in your video.

I don't know how extensive the dealer's analysis was but their conclusion was conrod bearing damage. Since the car was under warranty I got a whole new engine.

 

I'll keep my fingers crossed for you, let us know what you find.

 

If it is a rod bearing failure, it is entirely possible that oil viscosity was too low. Rod bearings live on the edge with high specific output engines. Add in some fuel dilution and high temps, and the result can be spectacular failure.

Put another way, oil can carry a specific and known load. Any deviation from this (such as fuel diluted oil) can result in bearing failures.

EDIT: I thought I'd add to the rod bearing discussion. Many crankshaft journals are nitrided or surface hardened and micropolished. This allows tight and accurate bearing clearances, without excess wear. These journals are sometimes able to withstand a destroyed rod bearing with little damage, simply due to being so hard. I've seen quite a few engines where a simple polish and bearing replacement was all that was needed. BMW engines come to mind. Believe it or not, sometimes the bearing material sticks to the journal and once removed, the journal is fine. In other words, it can (sometimes) look absolutely horrible, and be 100% once cleaned up.