F-Type ( X152 ) 2014 - Onwards

Please help me validate my parts list for coolant pipes upgrade

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Old Oct 18, 2025 | 09:18 AM
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Default Please help me validate my parts list for coolant pipes upgrade

Hi everyone,

I'm about to embark on a journey of self-discovery the coolant pipes upgrade on my AJ126. Could you please look at this parts list and let me know your thoughts ?

Aluminum coolant pipe #1 - LR186859 - genuine
Aluminum coolant pipe #2 - LR186917 - genuine
Supercharger lid gasket - C2Z17248 - do I really need this one?
Intake manifold gaskets - C2Z17249 x2 - OE equivalent
Rear heater pipe - AJ814053 - genuine
S/C OEM coupler - LR160736 - genuine - want to retain a sprung coupler
Some loctite 515 or equivalent
Throttle body gasket - C2Z28265 - OE equivalent

And then I want to tackle rattly start-ups with new HPFPs (there was a TSB for that):
HP fuel pumps - C2Z22287 x2 - OE Bosch
HP fuel pump tappets - JDE28731 x2 - OE equivalent from SNG
HP fuel pump gaskets - JDE8969 x2 - OE equivalent

Am I missing anything obvious?
 

Last edited by Don B; Oct 19, 2025 at 09:43 AM.
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Old Oct 18, 2025 | 10:18 AM
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I changed the large top SC gasket but was told it's not necessary if it's in good shape.
Change the WP to oil cooler brick with the Aluminum version.
Al. Tube

I like to replace the plastic bleed port with a brass one.
Brass Bleeder Screw

Change the PCV diaphragms and I like the upgraded material RKX uses.
1 on the V-6 and 2 are used on the V-8's.
PCV Diaphragms

Your choice but I went with the Aluminum after market rear water manifold. No problems after a year+.

I like to replace the heater hose on the rear water manifold with an improved and simpler Jaguar hose. I have posted this several times and after fighting to get that dang hose off and on at least twice I wanted that thing gone!

Here is the factory version;




Note that terrible bracket and captive bolt. That bolt is a real bear to get in and out. Jaguar eliminated that entire metal bracket in the later cars (2018+ I think?) BUT never went back and updated any of the older cars that used this part. I did this to my 2014 XJR and it's a nice improvement. I did trim the hose length about 1 inch to make it fit better but that was just me. It fits without doing anything.

Here is the replacement hose. Shorter, no bracket and WAY cheaper to boot! Note the factory plastic bleed port!




I still owe thanks to whoever posted this. His mechanic mentioned it to him and that shop now replaces every rear heater hose with this better version.

There is an Aluminum Thermostat assembly too. It comes with and without the sensor. So do find out which one your car has.
Here is one with the sensor as an example.
Al. Thermostat Housing
.
.
.
 

Last edited by clubairth1; Oct 18, 2025 at 10:23 AM.
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Old Oct 18, 2025 | 10:18 AM
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It seems about right (pipes) dont know about HPFP.
- SC lid gasket is recommended, my mechanic said it was not needed, but it is cheap
- Add C2Z18658 !!! + OEM o-ring which is not included and I don't have part no.
- Add C2Z18677. This hose goes the most and it is pita to replace, so I did it
 
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Old Oct 18, 2025 | 11:25 AM
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Thanks, duly noted all of these
 
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Old Oct 18, 2025 | 11:38 AM
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Why not just save money and buy the kit from EuroAmp, everything but gaskets, and all aluminum.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2025 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by clubairth1
I changed the large top SC gasket but was told it's not necessary if it's in good shape.
Change the WP to oil cooler brick with the Aluminum version.
Al. Tube
Does the WP to brick connection require taking the WP off?
 
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Old Oct 18, 2025 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Haalex
Does the WP to brick connection require taking the WP off?
IIRC yes.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2025 | 06:45 AM
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Yes need to remove WP and that brings up another small point? We have seen a number of oil cooler bricks that have had leaks under the cooler. There is a gasket in there you can replace. But as you can see this job grows arms and legs so at some point you need to stop making it bigger! It's not been reported very much either.
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.
.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2025 | 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by clubairth1
Yes need to remove WP and that brings up another small point? We have seen a number of oil cooler bricks that have had leaks under the cooler. There is a gasket in there you can replace. But as you can see this job grows arms and legs so at some point you need to stop making it bigger! It's not been reported very much either.
Yes, the rabbit hole is deep. You're right one has to stop somewhere. Whether the car will let me is another question

Originally Posted by bjg625
Why not just save money and buy the kit from EuroAmp, everything but gaskets, and all aluminum.
I've seen mixed review on the quality of the EuroAMP kit, and as a result want to stay OEM as much as possible. The Jaguar logo on the pipes should make me feel warm and fuzzy inside, too.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2025 | 07:18 AM
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I'd also change the supercharger oil while it's off.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2025 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by CarlB
I'd also change the supercharger oil while it's off.
Already done a few months ago using a syringe. Got 80ml out so I think that was most of it.
Might do it again though.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2025 | 08:19 AM
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Orders placed today.
I ended up going with an aluminum heater pipe and an OE Eaton sprung coupler from Brakemasters.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2025 | 05:08 PM
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Planning to tackle this job soon on my Discovery (same AJ126 motor).

I'm at 90k miles, so I'm also doing the following while I'm in there:

Water pump, thermostat, upper radiator hose, water pump to cooler piece, oil cooler gasket
All belts, idler pulley, tensioner pullies.

With the S/C off, will check the intake valves and see if they need cleaning from carbon buildup as well. You can make your own S/C indexing pins instead of buying the factory part - M8x1.25 threaded 140mm stainless half threaded bolts with the heads cut off.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2025 | 08:07 PM
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Check the video channel ,this what you need for the AJ126 -AJ133



 
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Old Oct 31, 2025 | 03:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 462disco
With the S/C off, will check the intake valves and see if they need cleaning from carbon buildup as well. You can make your own S/C indexing pins instead of buying the factory part - M8x1.25 threaded 140mm stainless half threaded bolts with the heads cut off.
Yep. I just checked, a 1m M8x1,25 threaded rod is less than 2 bucks at the local HW store
 
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Old Nov 1, 2025 | 11:10 AM
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Change the oil in the S/C with it out, plus I would do the thermostat, water pump and the plastic oil cooler behind the WP.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2025 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Haalex
Hi everyone,

I'm about to embark on a journey of self-discovery the coolant pipes upgrade on my AJ126. Could you please look at this parts list and let me know your thoughts ?

Aluminum coolant pipe #1 - LR186859 - genuine
Aluminum coolant pipe #2 - LR186917 - genuine
Supercharger lid gasket - C2Z17248 - do I really need this one?
Intake manifold gaskets - C2Z17249 x2 - OE equivalent
Rear heater pipe - AJ814053 - genuine
S/C OEM coupler - LR160736 - genuine - want to retain a sprung coupler
Some loctite 515 or equivalent
Throttle body gasket - C2Z28265 - OE equivalent

And then I want to tackle rattly start-ups with new HPFPs (there was a TSB for that):
HP fuel pumps - C2Z22287 x2 - OE Bosch
HP fuel pump tappets - JDE28731 x2 - OE equivalent from SNG
HP fuel pump gaskets - JDE8969 x2 - OE equivalent

Am I missing anything obvious?
....
replacing the Y pipe with an aluminium one is a good idea and the other short aluminium pipe under the supercharger also which has to be removed, this is a 3 hour job maximum for a proper Jaguar specialist, i had to have a new water pump replaced recently because coolant was being dumped into the engine oil sump..not good but its fine now and it didn't cost me anything because it was repaired under warranty from the dealership I bought it from here in England..my 68,000 mile F-type rattles on start up but it quitens down once the engine is hot..it does have chain driven cams, all 4 of them.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2025 | 02:30 PM
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So I just spent 2 days working on the car.
Day 1 was swapping the HPFPs
Day 2 I started working on the coolant system, removed / split the supercharger, and replaced the Y & heater pipes

Things will probably grind to a halt as I broke a very small part of the symposer that I'll need to order a replacement for. It seems like a vacuum line ID 2mm or so.
The clips that hold the throttle body water line under the supercharger also broke, so I'll order replacement ones as they're a specific design.

A couple of questions:
-what's the heater pipe torque spec? I did 10nm based on similar parts, couldn't find a specific value for these bolts
-anyone know the part number for the small clips that hold the harness to the heater pipe? they sort of look like this:

 
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Old Nov 11, 2025 | 04:49 PM
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I vote delete the symposer.

I used some general clips from scamazon that had Christmas tree tabs.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2025 | 06:34 PM
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Clips beneath the SC that hold the coolant line should be LR011221
 
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