so I would make sure the taps on start up is actually the fuel pumps. It could be timing chain rattle. That is what happened to my f type. I would just make sure before spending the money if I were you.

 

When I removed the symposer that small vacuum line was very brittle and just fell apart in multiple places. Bits also fell down behind the engine so these are just the chunks that I got out.




I don't know if Jaguar still has any of these parts anymore. Might need to round up a rubber vacuum line. The OEM is a hard plastic line that did not age well in service.
No I don't have any of this anymore. I was very happy to throw away anything that had to do with the Symposer!
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Had I know parts of the symposer would break, I probably would have ordered a delete kit.
At this point I'd like to get the car back together within a reasonable timeframe so waiting 1-2 weeks for a kit to arrive from the UK isn't my preferred plan.

I broke the same piece as you did. It's available separately from Jaguar, AJ812350.
If all goes well I'll have the parts Friday and can do the reassembly Saturday. If not it'll have to wait for next week.

The S/C is reassembled with a new coupler. Both couplers looked identical and felt in similar condition, but the new part does remove the slack I had. Nothing was broken, but I think the spring had gotten loose.

Whether the car will run well after I've fiddled with it so much... that remains a question

 

I think VAP has a symposer delete plate?

 

You can purchase the delete kit here in the US.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/116586493813

 

Yes but I'm in France ;-).
I haven't found a mainland EU seller that had them.

 

Just need a plate, drill holes for mounting, then some RTV for a good seal.

 

So I thought I'd post a little feedback on how things went and what I've learned.

The car runs again. I'll have to see how well the coolant level stabilized over time.
I broke the small angled plastic connector that goes into the water pump, which prevents me from completing the repair. Bought one of these as a replacement (not from EuroAMP though), but although it's not leaking, it fits poorly, has lots of play, and If I move it by hand, I can hear air getting into the circuit. You can't get OE versions of this connector or its female friend in the WP separately, so I bit the bullet and bought new OE WP and hose.

Here are some recommendations:
-changing hose C2Z18677 is a good idea while you have the S/C out. Keep the sprung clip from the old one, new parts only come with one
-order the clips that hold said hose to the S/C (C2P14812). They're inexpensive and break easily.
-do a symposer delete. It will make reassembly and further disassembly so much easier. I wish I'd done it.
-keep your old parts for a while. I found I needed to get a nipple from my old upper coolant pipe (not the case on an F-Type though)
-the new upper coolant pipe has a much thinner flange where it meets the snout, so the existing bolt needs to be shortened by 15mm
-I purged the radiator for this job. That was useless. Don't do it.

As far as tools:
-very small 1/4in hex ratchet is a must. I found one that is about 80mm long and 10mm thick
-magnet tool to fish out lost screws
-torque wrench for the S/C bolts
-some sort of crow bar to remove the S/C, and break it open

These are the tutorials I used:

Very helpful POV guide on S/C removal

More complete series of 3 videos

For further info / nice complement

Hope this helps.