High-mileage specific issues
Hey everyone,
I know I've asked before about common issues, about my checklist of things to look out for, etc...
There are two Rs semi-local to me that I have my eye on to look at when I get back home in a couple weeks (hopefully they don't sell prior), and both are higher mileage (90k and 115k kilometers... which is more than I'd prefer) examples.
So I'm not asking about the common problems, but what would I want to be aware of specifically for high mileage F-Types? Suspension issues, glass/door seals, wheel bearings, etc... Or is this more of a case-by-case issue depending on the specific car's maintenance history?
Thanks!
I know I've asked before about common issues, about my checklist of things to look out for, etc...
There are two Rs semi-local to me that I have my eye on to look at when I get back home in a couple weeks (hopefully they don't sell prior), and both are higher mileage (90k and 115k kilometers... which is more than I'd prefer) examples.
So I'm not asking about the common problems, but what would I want to be aware of specifically for high mileage F-Types? Suspension issues, glass/door seals, wheel bearings, etc... Or is this more of a case-by-case issue depending on the specific car's maintenance history?
Thanks!
Lots of it will be based on maintenance history. I would want access to all the maintenance records I could get my hands on. If the current owner can provide, that's already one check in the plus column.
I'd want to see what the bottom of the engine looks like, under the splash guards and air deflectors. That should give you some idea if there are any leaking seals -- timing cover, oil pan, front crank or rear main. Front and rear differential seals also. Look for signs of coolant leaks around the water pump and the crossover pipes, as well as all the usual coolant hoses -- the F Type has a bunch. Are the hosed stiff, or pliable. Bonus points if they've already been replaced. Check the dampers (shocks) for any signs of leaks. Pull the rubber covers off the top of the strut towers and look at the damper mount -- does it look like it has orange crumbles in it? If so, the from damper mounts need to be replaced. Check all the rubber boots for the stearing rack, front diff, tie rods, etc. Take a good look at the suspension bushings, at least those you can see. Signs of cracking means you'll likely be replacing the all pretty soon.
You didn't note the year, but have the coolant crossover pipes checked -- seamed pipes should be replaced. If that's been done, or it has the seamless pipes then less of a concern.
At 90k km, its possible the intakes could use at least a good cleaning if not a walnut blasting. My car has about 60k km on it and the buildup on the intake valves was not bad -- still smooth, just dark.
You already touched on the door seals. Check for tears or obvious signs of deterioration. I would also take a good look at the trim around the rear windows and the to of the door. Mine is starting to show signs of coming loose. That's probably more an age thing than a mileage thing. Inside the cabin -- does the center AC vent make any noise when it goes up and down? Check the headliner too. There is a thin layer of foam behind it and like all foam, it starts to degrade over time. My headliner has a few places where it shows some wrinkles. If you press on finger into it in certain places, it will leave a dent because the foam has lost all springiness. Check the interior plastic trim behind the seats and between the cabin and the trunk and make sure they aren't loose.
Again, you didn't note the year, so if they are older cars, pre-2017 is my recollection, listed for clicking noises on the front of the engine -- could be the timing chain guides/tensioners. The spring on the stock supercharger coupler also has a tendency to start making noise after a while, and eventually the couple needs to be replaced.
If you want to be real particular, have an oil sample sent off. I know lots of folks on here do that regularly. For other, more expensive power toys -- I own a 35' Tiara Express Cruiser with a pair of Cummins diesels -- sales are generally contingent on the results of that oil analysis.
Don't be surprised if the steering wheel buttons and the seat adjustment buttons are flaking or have the coating worn. Oh, check the outside rubber button on the rear hatch. Mine disintegrated.
But, all that said, a lot will depend on what maintenance history can be documented. Oil changes are supposed to be at least once a year, and no way I would wait till 16k miles/25k kilometers. I don't put 5k km a year on my car, so it gets changed yearly. Of all the maintenance history I would want to see on a higher mileage F Type, routine oil changes would be at the top of my list.
I'd want to see what the bottom of the engine looks like, under the splash guards and air deflectors. That should give you some idea if there are any leaking seals -- timing cover, oil pan, front crank or rear main. Front and rear differential seals also. Look for signs of coolant leaks around the water pump and the crossover pipes, as well as all the usual coolant hoses -- the F Type has a bunch. Are the hosed stiff, or pliable. Bonus points if they've already been replaced. Check the dampers (shocks) for any signs of leaks. Pull the rubber covers off the top of the strut towers and look at the damper mount -- does it look like it has orange crumbles in it? If so, the from damper mounts need to be replaced. Check all the rubber boots for the stearing rack, front diff, tie rods, etc. Take a good look at the suspension bushings, at least those you can see. Signs of cracking means you'll likely be replacing the all pretty soon.
You didn't note the year, but have the coolant crossover pipes checked -- seamed pipes should be replaced. If that's been done, or it has the seamless pipes then less of a concern.
At 90k km, its possible the intakes could use at least a good cleaning if not a walnut blasting. My car has about 60k km on it and the buildup on the intake valves was not bad -- still smooth, just dark.
You already touched on the door seals. Check for tears or obvious signs of deterioration. I would also take a good look at the trim around the rear windows and the to of the door. Mine is starting to show signs of coming loose. That's probably more an age thing than a mileage thing. Inside the cabin -- does the center AC vent make any noise when it goes up and down? Check the headliner too. There is a thin layer of foam behind it and like all foam, it starts to degrade over time. My headliner has a few places where it shows some wrinkles. If you press on finger into it in certain places, it will leave a dent because the foam has lost all springiness. Check the interior plastic trim behind the seats and between the cabin and the trunk and make sure they aren't loose.
Again, you didn't note the year, so if they are older cars, pre-2017 is my recollection, listed for clicking noises on the front of the engine -- could be the timing chain guides/tensioners. The spring on the stock supercharger coupler also has a tendency to start making noise after a while, and eventually the couple needs to be replaced.
If you want to be real particular, have an oil sample sent off. I know lots of folks on here do that regularly. For other, more expensive power toys -- I own a 35' Tiara Express Cruiser with a pair of Cummins diesels -- sales are generally contingent on the results of that oil analysis.
Don't be surprised if the steering wheel buttons and the seat adjustment buttons are flaking or have the coating worn. Oh, check the outside rubber button on the rear hatch. Mine disintegrated.
But, all that said, a lot will depend on what maintenance history can be documented. Oil changes are supposed to be at least once a year, and no way I would wait till 16k miles/25k kilometers. I don't put 5k km a year on my car, so it gets changed yearly. Of all the maintenance history I would want to see on a higher mileage F Type, routine oil changes would be at the top of my list.
I have not heard of any real issue with the high milage F type other than what GerbilEngineer already outlined for you. Any high performance car will begin to need suspension work between 50,000 miles on up. It is the nature of the beast. Will you have to replace struts or coilovers due to leaks, probably not, but the components will not perform as well as they should. Depending on the age of the car the rubber suspension components may also be at the end of life. Wheel bearings, tie rod ends, ball joints and such are all in play.
What I have found is that the number of owners matter. If these cars are one or two owner cars, than you have a good chance that the car was cared for. Once a car starts to get more than three owners the quality of care goes down.
I know a lot of people will disagree with me, but I have purchased a lot of vehicles. I allow for $10,000.00 in repairs for a used high performance car that I purchase. On an F type, you should be okay with about half of that, or $5000.00 as long as you do your due diligence. Make sure you buy the car at a price that will allow you to do this. These are solid cars, They can be expensive to repair. For example, a headlight is at least $3500.00 used. plus installation. Some years do have headlight issues.
Good Luck
What I have found is that the number of owners matter. If these cars are one or two owner cars, than you have a good chance that the car was cared for. Once a car starts to get more than three owners the quality of care goes down.
I know a lot of people will disagree with me, but I have purchased a lot of vehicles. I allow for $10,000.00 in repairs for a used high performance car that I purchase. On an F type, you should be okay with about half of that, or $5000.00 as long as you do your due diligence. Make sure you buy the car at a price that will allow you to do this. These are solid cars, They can be expensive to repair. For example, a headlight is at least $3500.00 used. plus installation. Some years do have headlight issues.
Good Luck
Thank you both! I'm currently looking at 2016s and 2017s. I'd love a 2018 or 2019 but I can't with those headlights.
Had the opportunity to buy a low mileage 2017 R, but there were a couple small dings on the rear quarter, the price was a bit high, and the dealerman was a bit shady/inflexible. If the price is right, higher mileage doesn't bother me, especially if there's a good maintenance history.
Had the opportunity to buy a low mileage 2017 R, but there were a couple small dings on the rear quarter, the price was a bit high, and the dealerman was a bit shady/inflexible. If the price is right, higher mileage doesn't bother me, especially if there's a good maintenance history.
Thank you both! I'm currently looking at 2016s and 2017s. I'd love a 2018 or 2019 but I can't with those headlights.
Had the opportunity to buy a low mileage 2017 R, but there were a couple small dings on the rear quarter, the price was a bit high, and the dealerman was a bit shady/inflexible. If the price is right, higher mileage doesn't bother me, especially if there's a good maintenance history.
Had the opportunity to buy a low mileage 2017 R, but there were a couple small dings on the rear quarter, the price was a bit high, and the dealerman was a bit shady/inflexible. If the price is right, higher mileage doesn't bother me, especially if there's a good maintenance history.
Do check the headlights for cracking and/or any sign of condensation inside them. My 2017 shows micro-cracking, but nothing catastrophic yet. The headlight assemblies are crazy expensive -- you could pay for a dealer to redo all the rubber in the suspension for the price of a pair of headlights.
From what I have read, it's pretty unavoidable, at least on pre-face lift cars. Haven't researched the newer ones.
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But maybe that is because it's been a bit of a garage queen the last five years and doesn't see much sun?
Everyone comments on the engine, supercharger, coolant, etc. Valid concerns. But at a higher mileage, I'm thinking about rubber bushing and other pieces. Is there a guibo for the driveshaft? Differential mounts, subframe mounts, suspension bushings etc. No one really brings those up, I was wondering myself.
Everyone comments on the engine, supercharger, coolant, etc. Valid concerns. But at a higher mileage, I'm thinking about rubber bushing and other pieces. Is there a guibo for the driveshaft? Differential mounts, subframe mounts, suspension bushings etc. No one really brings those up, I was wondering myself.
- front and rear differentials
- coolant pipe service/overhaul (including water pump)
- suspension bushings
- supercharger coupling/snout
- exhaust valves if it had active exhaust
- injectors
- led headlights in some of the mid year cars
I was comfortable buying my '16 R at 55,000 miles in 2021. I considered it to be relatively high mileage which helped with the purchase price. I was new to the brand but had some confidence as it had a couple months left on the factory warranty and it was CPO under the old scheme which was another year and 100,000 miles Turns out to have been the most reliable car I've ever owned which probably speaks poorly to my other car purchases.
We had the rear diff pinion seal and a couple O2 sensors replaced under warranty. The extended leather headliner failed and was pretty expensive to purchase and a bit of a faff to fit. The outside chrome trim around the doors has faded, also expensive. But we made it to 95,000 miles before changing all the motor's perishables. Rear tires are the only thing that are expensive and in need of constant replacement, relative to my other cars.
I was willing to accept a car at 55,000 miles with a known dealership service history. Heck, I bought my '17 F Pace S at 110,000 miles because it showed 100% Harper and Cape Fear dealership maintenance. I don't know about a high mileage F with an unknown maintenance history. Awful lot of stuff that could have been ignored by an inattentive owner.
I personally prefer the '16-'17 sweet spot in the line. '16 is when AWD became available. But '16 is also when the infotainment went digital Ethernet, wish mine had still been MOST. '17 I believe is when CarPlay became available.
We had the rear diff pinion seal and a couple O2 sensors replaced under warranty. The extended leather headliner failed and was pretty expensive to purchase and a bit of a faff to fit. The outside chrome trim around the doors has faded, also expensive. But we made it to 95,000 miles before changing all the motor's perishables. Rear tires are the only thing that are expensive and in need of constant replacement, relative to my other cars.
I was willing to accept a car at 55,000 miles with a known dealership service history. Heck, I bought my '17 F Pace S at 110,000 miles because it showed 100% Harper and Cape Fear dealership maintenance. I don't know about a high mileage F with an unknown maintenance history. Awful lot of stuff that could have been ignored by an inattentive owner.
I personally prefer the '16-'17 sweet spot in the line. '16 is when AWD became available. But '16 is also when the infotainment went digital Ethernet, wish mine had still been MOST. '17 I believe is when CarPlay became available.
At 101K miles on my V6, I think I’ll be replacing the SC snout a second time. Engine does some light pinging, which I haven’t investigated yet. Otherwise, all is good.
I never did any paint protection, so there are some chips and road rash, but nothing that bothers me too much.
I never did any paint protection, so there are some chips and road rash, but nothing that bothers me too much.
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