When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
High Pressure Fuel Pumps Removal and Installation: Lessons Learned
I had to change out the number 2 high pressure fuel pump (it was noisy) on my 2014 F-Type and I thought I would provide some “lessons learned” for anyone who does this job in the future. I was doing it for the first time so I didn’t take pictures or notes so this is essentially from memory.
Since this is from memory, it isn’t a step by step “how to”, just some suggestions and lessons learned. Follow the service manual (303-04) for things like releasing the fuel pressure, disconnecting the battery, etc.
The service manual called for the removal of a bunch of different components. After I got under the car, I quickly realized that this probably wouldn’t be necessary. The only thing that would really need to be removed was the alternator and the center/left/right intake tubes to easily access the drive belt.
I put the car up on 4 jack stands to have ease of access and I found that I had plenty of room to work.
The service manual calls for the oil to be drained so I did so. I am not 100% sure whether the oil level would rise to the point where it would leak out of the fuel pump drive openings but I am guessing that it would.
Obviously, you have to remove the splash guard/tray that covers the oil pan but there was no need to remove the front bumper under tray.
Once the car is up on stands and you have loosened the drive belt from the alternator, remove the alternator itself. There are three bolts that are easily accessible. There are two electrical connections....the larger battery connector is self-explanatory with one nut.
I had trouble with the single wire snap in electrical connector that connects to the alternator control module. I was trying to squeeze the light gray clip but it is a pry type lock so you have to pry that clip away/out from the plug and the plug will come right out. When reattaching, push the clip back in and make sure that it clicks when you push the connector in. I was not careful enough with this (I didn't hear the click) and it ended up being a little loose and causing a fault.
The fuel pumps themselves are fairly easy to remove once the alternator is out. There are two fuel lines on each and they did drip a little fuel when removed so be prepared for that. Three of the four fuel lines had enough slack to pull them away from the fuel pump bodies without a problem but the one closest to the front of the car on the #1 pump (front) has a bracket just above it that is easily visible. Remove the screw from that bracket and the fuel line will move just enough to get the line loose. It is the tightest one.
The rubber covers on the fuel pumps were a little bit of a pain….but they are self-explanatory.
Once I had full access to the pumps, I just loosened the screws one turn at a time as described in the service manual. The front pump has to come out first but once it is out, the second can come right out.
Follow the service manual for installing the new pump(s).
I hope this is of some use to someone!
Last edited by benfbrown; Oct 29, 2021 at 07:41 AM.
I just bought the car and, believe it or not, it only had 2500 miles on it when I bought it. But it's a 2014 so it has been sitting most of it's life.
Shortly after I bought it, I noticed the noise. After reading the forums, I thought it was a high pressure fuel pump and scanning it using an Autel MP808 confirmed it. Further confirmation is that once I replaced it, the noise went away : )
I had to change out the number 2 high pressure fuel pump (it was noisy) on my 2014 F-Type and I thought I would provide some “lessons learned” for anyone who does this job in the future. I was doing it for the first time so I didn’t take pictures or notes so this is essentially from memory.
Since this is from memory, it isn’t a step by step “how to”, just some suggestions and lessons learned. Follow the service manual (303-04) for things like releasing the fuel pressure, disconnecting the battery, etc.
The service manual called for the removal of a bunch of different components. After I got under the car, I quickly realized that this probably wouldn’t be necessary. The only thing that would really need to be removed was the alternator and the center/left/right intake tubes to easily access the drive belt.
I put the car up on 4 jack stands to have ease of access and I found that I had plenty of room to work.
The service manual calls for the oil to be drained so I did so. I am not 100% sure whether the oil level would rise to the point where it would leak out of the fuel pump drive openings but I am guessing that it would.
Obviously, you have to remove the splash guard/tray that covers the oil pan but there was no need to remove the front bumper under tray.
Once the car is up on stands and you have loosened the drive belt from the alternator, remove the alternator itself. There are three bolts that are easily accessible. There are two electrical connections....the larger battery connector is self-explanatory with one nut.
I had trouble with the single wire snap in electrical connector that connects to the alternator control module. I was trying to squeeze the light gray clip but it is a pry type lock so you have to pry that clip away/out from the plug and the plug will come right out. When reattaching, push the clip back in and make sure that it clicks when you push the connector in. I was not careful enough with this (I didn't hear the click) and it ended up being a little loose and causing a fault.
The fuel pumps themselves are fairly easy to remove once the alternator is out. There are two fuel lines on each and they did drip a little fuel when removed so be prepared for that. Three of the four fuel lines had enough slack to pull them away from the fuel pump bodies without a problem but the one closest to the front of the car on the #1 pump (front) has a bracket just above it that is easily visible. Remove the screw from that bracket and the fuel line will move just enough to get the line loose. It is the tightest one.
The rubber covers on the fuel pumps were a little bit of a pain….but they are self-explanatory.
Once I had full access to the pumps, I just loosened the screws one turn at a time as described in the service manual. The front pump has to come out first but once it is out, the second can come right out.
Follow the service manual for installing the new pump(s).
I hope this is of some use to someone!
seems like you may know the answer. I cannot find a relay diagram ANYWHERE for 2014 s v8 convertible
Do you happen to have a recording of this noise? I claim that I keep hearing something coming from the engine compartment that could be a fuel pump. The noise is very quiet when starting, but after 20 minutes of driving you can hear it more clearly. It is impossible to say whether this comes from the right or left of the engine, rather the left side instead of the right! It's certainly not a mechanical noise, it sounds electrical, I just can't describe it properly. Had an audio recording, but I'll have to look for it. Maybe you can identify my sound. I would say it sounds like a high frequency tone, consistently. As soon as I find the file with the sound, I'll send it to you. Thanks for your support...
Well, I thought the F-Type came out in 2015, so learned something new today. By the way, which engine/trim do you have? And RWD or AWD? Just curious. Anyway, I wasn't sure which type of injection the car has, but apparently since it came out had direct one, right? I was hoping the new ones have both, but maybe just direct only as well. Glad you resolved your issue.
Do you happen to have a recording of this noise? I claim that I keep hearing something coming from the engine compartment that could be a fuel pump. The noise is very quiet when starting, but after 20 minutes of driving you can hear it more clearly. It is impossible to say whether this comes from the right or left of the engine, rather the left side instead of the right! It's certainly not a mechanical noise, it sounds electrical, I just can't describe it properly. Had an audio recording, but I'll have to look for it. Maybe you can identify my sound. I would say it sounds like a high frequency tone, consistently. As soon as I find the file with the sound, I'll send it to you. Thanks for your support...
BR Andi
No, I don't have a recording. To diagnose I actually got under the car and put a stethoscope to it.
Oh, okay, so coupes started in 2015 then, right? That's probably why I had that year in my head. Ha ha. But hard to believe this thing is 10 years old already; still looks great.
Hey all!
I made an account here to thank the OP, the post was helpful and gave me the courage to have a go at this myself.
I've been getting some codes relating to fuel pressure and the HPFP and upon inspection Pump 2, the rear, looked to be leaking oil; so I'm assuming thats where my problem might lie.
I also wanted to post as a bit of a caution. Mine is a UK car, MY15 RWD Coupe R. This poses some problems as it has Hydraulic steering which comes with a lot of additional components which are packed on the right hand side; right in the way of the rear HPFP.
The low pressure feed and the rear bolt of that particular pump are a nightmare to access whilst on axle stands (red arrows in the image). You can't access them from the rear, you have to either remove a lot more stuff (the car would need to be on a lift though) or have the right tools and reach to go over the front AND even then you'll be doing some of it by feel. Also the high bolt on the Alternator can be a bit of a squeeze.
When I've got it all back together in the next week or so; I'll aim to right a guide for this particular job/car.
High Pressure Fuel Pumps Removal and Installation: Lessons Learned
