Thanks for the posts above, fellas.
But Sorry, being a new Jag owner, I don't really understand all the acronyms flying around above.

If someone can pls simplify to something like:
1. No. Jaguar will void 5 yr warranty.
2. Yes, take it to a tuner where he'll charge u $___ to program computer to increase ### hp.
3. U can spend $___ to replace this ___ part to increase hp, without voiding warranty.
- Looking for engine parts to increase hp, not wheels/tires to shave off a few lbs.
Thanks,

 

Great! Can you send the other one over here. He can't possibly be any worse.

 

1. The most cost effective way of increasing power is with a reliable tune. If you want even more power you can change the pulley setup to overdrive the supercharger (SC) for more boost. The tune will leave a fingerprint on the engine control module (ECM) that could flag your car as having had a tune even if you revert back to the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) tune. This will give the dealer the opportunity to claim that the additional power is responsible for any driveline issues. The warranty will remain fully intact for anything not related to the driveline (which includes engine, transmission, driveshafts, differential, axles, etc.)
2. Local tuners will not know how to provide a reliable tune. You will need to get a tune from a tuner with long term Jaguar experience. Velocity AP has demonstrated their competence and customer service and is the tuner of choice on this forum. You can do a forum search and find massive amounts of hard data and dyno charts to back up their credibility. Their tune is accomplished with a handheld device they send to you and a transmission of tune files back and forth via email.
For your car, about $1000 to get to 575hp (the SVR tune) or to 605hp. If you want more, adding a pulley ($1100 plus labor) on top of the tune will take it to 640hp.
3. I know of no modification that will increase power without jeopardizing the driveline warranty.

 

I think Henessey will sell you a $1000 for tune for $10,000 and then he gives you a full warranty for that price.

As for bolt on parts - think about it, if there was a $300 part that made the car faster and didn't stress the engine further, would the manufacturer not have installed it? Jag engine has been around and has been proven reliable. To increase power, you'll need to increase boost - via tune/pulley etc. Talk to Stuart at VAP, he'll tell you how many successful tune's he's done. The engine can handle mild/moderate tunes, I think he's now in the multiple 100's without fail. If that isn't enough for you, well some of us have found ways to remove about 150 lbs from the car, which starts to help the cars overall handling, braking and acceleration. Search is your friend...

 

Ya, um, but Jay's doctor might tell you he needs to lose a few pounds.

Many of us have removed in excess of 150 lbs from the T type, which I would argue is starting to become significant. Add a tune and good tires and its really becoming quite a fun car. Most on this forum enjoy modifying or at least looking into the possibility of modifying, part of the fun of owning a car like this. That said, upgrades that provide little or no return on investment, or are of poor quality are REALLY annoying.

Shills promoting dubious upgrades annoy me to no end. Can't tell you how many posts there are on the Tundra forum about the cheap $300 tunes out there (has bulldog in the name) that one shill purported to show a dyno run with a 50 hp increase for the supercharged Tundra. Guess what? It doesn't. Worse yet, it removes vital protections from the engine and you can hear the pinging. Of course, once installed, you can't resell the piece of garbage. Genius money scam. Fool me once....

 

Jay Leno is a brilliant comedian, and not the right man to learn physics from.
Ricky Ricardo was your man, please lemme esplain it to you Lucy.
There is a world of difference if Hussien Bolt gained 30lbs vs him wearing 30lbs shoes.

 

One idiot savant to the other.
Put two 5 pound ankle weights in your jacket pocket and go for a walk.
You will not feel your performance impeded.
Now put those ankle weights on your ankles and go for a walk, it will severely bring down your power.

 

LOL what a JOKE!
ANYONE can show 2 different results in a zero to 60 and then simply post the lowest and then "claim" that is the one with your snake oil solution. Please STOP trying to SELL on here as an un-authorized vendor unless... you have PAID the mods of this forum for doing so and stating that you are selling

 

A number of us on here have already PROVEN that you are NOT going to be able to "open the throttle body to WOT a lot sooner". That is pure and utter hogwash ESPECIALLY on a video like the one you just posted here that advertises your product. Your argument would ONLY be a difference based on the INSTANT you pushed down on the accelerator. It would NOT "make the car any faster" in ANY way.

Now that your crap has been de bunked, why don't you just move on to another forum with a more gullible membership?

 

I already confirmed your belief that I own two identical F-Types (same VIN, too) and there are two of me.

One of me knows the past:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...5/#post1906196

And the other me knows the future:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...7/#post1906245

Ouch!

 

1. No. Jaguar will void 5 yr warranty.

Any tune will void substantial parts of factory warranty. VAP tune, being most reputable, will add power but it will ALSO void engine warranty.

The best you could do is upgrade your tires to Michelin Sport 4S. It won't increase power, but will make it possible to put more of existing power down and sooner.

So upgrading your tires is about the only thing you could do without voiding warranty.

You could also try to reduce weight by replacing some body panels with CF, but it is prohibitively expensive and gains are marginal.

 

Some folks will not like to admit to themselves that after a certain point, power is purely psychological.

My brother for instance got the V6s because he felt for true spirited driving- which he does a lot of, my V8R was counterproductive!

It really depends what the car means to you. If you are looking for tire-burning, the American muscle cars that hold the front brake is what you need.

If you are looking for purely 0-60 times some of the Japanese and Germans are the way to go.

If you are looking for something that crosses the threshold of muscle car, and is a nice blend of compromise between somewhat spirited driving and a car with persona and stye, you are there mate with a V8R and in a league of your own. Beyond here you will tip the scale in one direction or the other.

But I get the need to add some token personal touch that makes the cat your own, or a little sprinkle more of black pepper or salt than the chef. For that as others have suggested look into the areas that Jaguar compromised in favor of luxury, such as tires and exhaust, wheels. But I doubt you will want to go to 17inch wheels and tires just for the performance gain. An therein lies the answers to modifications.

 

Right. "Power" is too broad a term. My V6S produces respectable 380 HP, but because of the small 3L base, sloppy 8-speed, and linear supercharger, there is no way to spin the wheels with 4x new Mich Pilots. This car is incapable of wheel spin in any mode including launch mode. It slightly outruns claimed 4.8s 0-60, adjusted for standard day. My 5700lb 305HP Armada can light up the tires to hell and back, just by holding the brake in Drive. It's about where and how the power and torque are delivered.

As Jay Leno says, "Horsepower sells cars but torque wins races."

And since HP is Torque x RPM/5252, a small base linear supercharged engine has no torque off the line and it never will.

If you want cheap performance that will bury anything in a showroom under $400-500K, I whole recommend picking up a used 135i coupe. The convertible is too heavy with its massive rectangle-stock steel straps bolted over the bottom to hold it together - "German Engineering." They go for ~$10K in excellent condition. Add a $4K for a tune and a few bolt ons and your at refined 610 whp running mid 11s. Its a small base too, but you can achieve 23 psi at around 1500 RPM (stock is 8.5 psi for 300hp).

Then get ready to cough-up your $10-20K annual donation to the "German Engineering" welfare program. That's why most high performance German cars are worthless out of warranty.

 

That's interesting, I don't find him comedian-funny but hes a stupendous and practical automotive knowledge base. He's probably the most well rounded car guy in the world, as he owns, drives and works on at least one of everything. I listened to him talking about the pros and cons of automotive steam power, recently, it was a great education.

 

What did I tell ya; stop learning science from a comedian!

No you have it the other way around. Formula One cars have half the torque of a F-type V8R. They have ridiculously low amounts of torque even compared to a Toyota minivan.

In fact, low-torque is an insurmountable problem of over-square (F1) engines.

However, as far as feelings go- one feels torque, not HP.

 

I am sorry- I may have left you with too little.
I believe Enzo Ferrari said torque wins races.
He may have been referring to his ability to get 5% more torque than the competitors in F1 races. A race where torque is really limited due to design of engines. (short stroke)
But the same short stroke or over-square is what gives you insanely high rpms.
And very quick rpms- as in the rise time is very little. Just like motorbike engines- also over-square.
For this reason your point to others about faster WOT was invalid- its a function of engine design and not throttle cable/electronics.

 

 

You would do well not to put words into Unhingd's mouth - he's one of the more rational people on this board. I suggest you reread his post.

 

"The risk, though, can be partially mitigated by" <-- by this he means the risk of the need to even make a warranty claim is less with a reputable (i.e. VAP) tune.

 

"I never said that." -- Unhingd