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After receiving a $6500 quote for replacing all 8 injectors, researching the procedure, and deciding it looked simple enough, I bought that cheep aftermarket slide hammer removal tool and had success removing 2 of the 8 injectors after soaking them for a week in penetrating oil
After this moderate success I welded a larger slide hammer shaft to the tool so that I could use an 8lb slide hammer with the custom end. This worked great and removed the 4 of the other injectors in short order, but as the reader already knows, I ended up breaking off two of the other injectors in the block. Now I've been frustrated with my fair share of car project hiccups, but this failure led to an admittedly excessive level of profane curses upon everything mechanical.
One of the injectors broke along the narrow shaft of the injector tip (before the Teflon seal) and the other broke before the valve. I was able to punch the first one into the cylinder with a punch turned down on the lathe. The second one was an even bigger pain, and I ended up buying a right angle air drill and drilling out the injector body, which came free and allowed me to again punch the head down into the cylinder, home free right? Nope! now the punch is somehow stuck in the cylinder! I'm on my way to try and drill and tap the punch, and the injector tips are still in the cylinders. If anyone has any advice, including how I should have done it, hopefully it helps someone else, and otherwise... cautionary tale I suppose?
Not really and suggestions and I have seen people that had to remove the head to clean all the parts out. I guess going thru the spark plug hole would be too small? These DI engines do have tiny 14mm plugs. These are smaller than any I have seen before.
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To add to the story, what was the reason to change all 8 injectors to begin with?
Car started running really rough, nearing stalling, sounded substantially worse then just a misfire (still not sure why) I found injector and misfire codes and had it towed to a shop who allegedly tracked it down to a bad injector, I figured I should go ahead and replace them all while I was at it, possibly not the best decision.
Yes common problem and a common cause. Usually you get a good bit of white smoke too?
It is generally advisable to change all the injectors on the side that caused the problems. Not sure why but when the cars were new Jaguar would change the entire bank of injectors under warranty.
Figured I'd post an update with some lessons learned:
I was able to get everything sorted over the next few weekends and everything has been running well. Below are some lessons learned during this process!
1. I bought one of the off brand injector puller slide hammers and... it was awful. I'm not sure if the Jaguar branded slide hammer has more weight, but this did not have the hammer weight to get the injectors out. To sort this I bought a 8lb Harbor Freight slide hammer and welded it to the injector hammer. This worked great in pulling the injectors. Before the modification I was only able to get one injector out. After I was able to get three more out. Unfortunately the steel used on the grabbing end of the off brand injector puller was soft and starting to show wear. This being the case I proceeded with even more forceful hits on the remaining two injectors and those were the two that broke off. If I had to do it again I would buy the more expensive Jaguar tool
2. As mentioned previously I was able to get one of the broken injector tips punched into the cylinder. The other broke further up, but I was able to drill down the center, separating the injector body from the injector tip. I was then able to remove the injector body and punch the tip down into the cylinder.
3. Driving the injector tip into the cylinder took less force than expected, start slow. I got ended up getting the punch stuck and having to drill and tap the end to remove it. If I were doing it over again I would drill and tap the punch when I turned it down to the correct size.
4. Removing the injector tips from the cylinders wasn't great, as the both my bore scope and flexi magnet were too large to fit through the injector hole and only fit through the spark plug hole. I was fishing blind. A bore scope with an articulating head would have been great.
5. The bendy magnet on a stick I had ended up being a bendy magnet on a telescoping stick. This seemed fine, but as the injector tip ended up in a harder to reach part of the cylinder the flexi magnet had to go in straight and then be flexed by pushing it into the cylinder face, unfortunately this caused the stick to telescope back instead of flexing. I was able to superglue the telescoping pieces while extended to fix this problem.
6. To clean the corrosion out of the injector holes I purchased a set of nylon and brass brushes with an 1/4 in hex drive I had a flexible drill extension with magnetic retention, but didn't trust it to not drop the brush into the cylinder, so I purchased one with collect retention (
). Unfortunately when pushing this down into the cylinder head the larger outer diameter of the start of the injector hole depressed the collet causing it to release, and dropping the brush into the cylinder... This was fished out with great effort and no small amount of luck.
7. Make sure you have crows foots extension or some other way to torque the high pressure fuel lines to spec.
8. I flushed the cylinders with sea foam, sucked it out with the oil extractor, and inspected each cylinder before re-assembly
Please let me know if anyone has questions and good luck!
One additional tip. I use.
I also used brass brushes to clean the injector bores. But I did not like the idea of all the junk falling down on top of the pistons. So I rigged up a spark plug hole to compressed air adapter. Then I blast compressed air into the spark plug hole and the air comes out the injector hole along with all the grit and grime. It was surprising how much stuff blew out!
Sounds like a hell of a job! We have actually developed a OEM style solution to deflect the water away from the injectors, preventing water ingress from the bonnet vents causing corrosion issues just like this. May be worth looking at if you plan to keep your car for a while.
Kind regards
George
Last edited by sklimii; Dec 2, 2025 at 02:29 PM.
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Sounds like a hell of a job! We have actually developed a OEM style solution to deflect the water away from the injectors, preventing water ingress from the bonnet vents causing corrosion issues just like this. May be worth looking at if you plan to keep your car for a while.
Wanted to check - for the AWD versions of the F-type, does this still help?
I've heard varying things about the hood vents, my impression was that the AWD hoods had the vents in slightly different areas which hopefully prevented the water ingress issues, but wasn't sure on that?
Wanted to check - for the AWD versions of the F-type, does this still help?
I've heard varying things about the hood vents, my impression was that the AWD hoods had the vents in slightly different areas which hopefully prevented the water ingress issues, but wasn't sure on that?
Yep. AWD hood vents are wider apart and further down towards the front. And there are rubber covers on the engine beneath them to redirect any water ingress down off the engine, so no danger of the issues the RWD guys may experience.
I think those shields have always been fitted to all AWD F-Types. I think I saw someone on some forum adding them to an RWD F-Type although they add zero value in an RWD. They cover the strut towers which I guess would collect water and maybe fry the adaptive dynamics wiring without protection.
In the end, do you think this was still better than just pulling the head (s)? ( If you had to do it again ? )
From what I understand the shop manual has you pulling the engine to pull the head. Even if not, pulling the head seems like a big job. If I knew to just go ahead and punch the injector tips into the cylinder from the get go an had undersized the punch by another couple thou it wouldn't have been nearly as bad.
Nice write up! What was your total cost in parts/tools? Was the 6500 estimate an independent shop? Or dealer?
It was an independent JLR focused shop. Total costs in tools was probably around $500, but I purchased an pneumatic right angle drill, a set of stubby drill bits, a huge bunch of silicon plugs, and the two slide hammers mentioned. Parts were about $1000 for injectors and plugs.
It was an independent JLR focused shop. Total costs in tools was probably around $500, but I purchased an pneumatic right angle drill, a set of stubby drill bits, a huge bunch of silicon plugs, and the two slide hammers mentioned. Parts were about $1000 for injectors and plugs.
you should have put 3 twin choke Weber carbs on it instead 🤣
I had the same issue two broken injectors - I used a deep bolt extractor and both snap off and came out just above the teflon seal - I then drilled them out just shy of the side wall and not through the tip I didn’t want metal fragments in the cylinder. I then made a punch and drove the injector tips in the cylinder. Some careful engine turning and magnet manipulation with and 8mm head magnet and both tips are out and both bores are in tacks
Injector broke of in head
