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Michelin pilot sport cup 2 - which homologation?

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  #21  
Old 05-22-2019, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
FWIW, there are a lot of good tires out there. You don't really need to fixate on Michelin offerings only. You just need to figure out what characteristics you need from a tire. However, any performance tire doesn't like cold weather. I assume, based on your location, the car I assume sees some limited sub-freezing temperatures. Is it stored inside or outside? I've seen performance tires degrade from exposure to cold temperatures.
Thanks for input! I stored the car in a non-heated garage over the winter and temperatures hover around freezing point for most of the winter so this may have been part of the reason that the MPS4S seems to have deteriorated since last summer season..... I may need to look for a heated winter storage (or take the wheels off and store them in the living room to be sure that my precious tires don't freeze - that will go very well with the Mrs.)
 
  #22  
Old 05-22-2019, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by rocspo
Actually, the NO specification is brand new from Michelin.
Car & Driver tested them on a Porsche GT2 in their most recent Lightning Lap competition.
They ran the car back to back, first with Cup 2s, then with the Cup 2 NOs.
The NOs outperformed the Cup 2s in every way; straight line acceleration, lateral Gs achieved,
‘and especially dry braking.
They may not last more than 10,000 Miles, but they appear to be the best performance street
tire on the market today.
The N0 may well be newer and better than the standard Cup 2, but the N1 is newer and should be better than the N0.
See https://flatsixes.com/porsche-produc...hoosing-tires/
The site states: "The N-0 marking is assigned to the first approved version of a tire design. As that design is refined externally or internally, the later significant evolutions will result in a new generation of the tire to be branded with N-1, N-2, N-3, etc., in succession."
 
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  #23  
Old 05-23-2019, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Unhingd
Not sure how that would help as only the toe is adjustable (unless you’re going to use a frame bender).
My assessment of this situation is a follows:

a. There is something wrong with the car

or

b. There is substantial exaggeration to the severity of issues experienced

My suggestion was aimed at eliminating a., especially considering that the OPs car looks lowered and non-OEM rims in the picture. There is non-zero chance that some of that mod work was done incorrectly.
 
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