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has anyone done this on a 2014? I took the switch from the mirror area and was able to get power but it seemed like it was too low voltage or something, I hear my valentine 1 beep but it sounds like a very weak beep, doesn't light up either. I used the same tap and tapped into the receiver module for the remote keys and it works perfectly so I know it's not an issue with my tap. The receiver module for keys is always powered so I can't tap into that or the v1 will always stay on even when the car isn't on
posting this to help anyone who may have made the same mistake as me, the plug to tap into (at least for a 2014 us spec) is actually BEHIND the rear view mirror, as you the rear view mirror needs to be REMOVED to access, if you are tapping into any of the wires that are accessible without removing the rear view mirror they will not work, i got a multimeter and tested every single one out
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Figured out which wire was switchable and tapped into that. Works like a charm, and looks clean. Detector turns on when the car is on, off when it is off. Only caveat is that the mute button is a bit tighter than before.
For reference these are the wires I plugged into.
Black was ground.
Blue/gray was power.
I finally got around to wiring mine up. I duplicated the conductors you used in the photos after testing. Same, same with my 2016.
I use a Garmin mini cam as well as an Escort Max radar detector. I bought 3 things:
an inline small 5A fuse holder
an RJ45 pigtail with the male RJ45 and two conductors (+/- 12V) (for the Escort).
a voltage step down regulator with a USB A female connector output
I first verified with Escort that they are 12V at the unit (they are), used small wiring pins to which I soldered some wiring and connected first the fuse then the other two loads to the same two conductors. I then tested to make sure my RJ45 pigtail is the same pins on the RJ45 connector as the output from the factory Escort 12V RJ45 plug (they were). All tested fine, both devices work great. I then soldered the common joints and used heat shrink tubing to protect. I inserted the pins into the factory wiring connector. The ground slot in the car connector was a bit sloppy, so I just bent that pin slightly; it's now well landed in the factory connector. I used double sided tape to stick my USB voltage drop down against the glass side above the other connector; coiled all wires, zip tied and put in place. There's plenty of room up there; the plastic cover snapped back on with no issues.
I'm waiting on the adapter to come in to take the USB A to USB C for the mini cam.
