I have a 2017 F-Type S that I just purchased last month. It was still on the dealers lot and marked as new. Mileage was 248 at time of purchase.

About a week after purchase I started to get the following warning lights:

 

Due to the multitude of problems it could well be a CAN-bus (or whatever they use) issue, like a broken cable connection, yes.

 

And the most common cause of these symptoms is a battery putting out less than full voltage. Given that this car has been on a dealer's lot, that is the very first thing to suspect.

 

Possibly a bad ground stud - wouldn't be the first time.

 

SOV211; You might be correct. When I bought my 370z I had problems of that nature. I was two hours away from the dealer and could still drive the car so I ignored those things. I got bored one day and started looking on the forums for answers. Come to find out Nissan had a button in the fuse box called battery save. It's activated after the car rolls off the assembly line. It's so the battery will not die on a car lot. My sales person did not take it out of save mode when he sold me the car.

 

That was my first thought as well. But the battery tested good to Jaguar specifications. I will have them check the ground stud though.

 

Yes, dealers often make this error. Batteries which test as "good" often are not supplying full voltage. The symptoms of random and multiple warning lights, as well as other symptoms such as the touch screen freezing, windows, seats and the convertible top not functioning properly, have all been found to be associated with low battery voltage and not in any way with the systems or modules themselves. There is an enormous amount of information about this on the XK forum. The issue of low battery voltage and its results is not confined to Jaguars, by any means. Every luxury car manufacturer from Bugatti to Bentley, every one, including Jaguar, Land Rover, BMW, Mercedes, Alfa Romeo, Maserati, Audi...they all sell one specific battery maintainer under their own label, the Swedish designed CTEK unit, and the reason they sell this unit is that many of these cars are not used on a daily basis nor for long runs, that is, not long enough to fully charge the battery and to keep it fully charged.
I have used these CTEK units for years on a variety of cars when they are not actually in use. The result has been zero issues of any kind with the electrical systems in my cars.

The problem with your car might have a different cause...but the car is brand new and has not been used for...how long?

 

Gregory,

Thank you for the info on CTEK. I did have my Land Rover maintainer on for several days I was getting to the maintaining stage, so I assumed I was at full charge. I also had the battery tested at a third party and it ready 100% as well. I don't know maybe will ask them to try a new battery just for grins...

 

I had voltage issues with a previous 4.2 XKR and went to a battery depot to buy a new one. The sales guy insisted on testing my battery and pronounced it "sound" so wouldn't sell me a new one. I ordered one online and my voltage woes went away. I got the new battery for a lower price than the depot would have charged and they lost a sale. Hopeless.

 

I understand perfectly why you would assume that the battery is not at fault if the maintainer went to maintenance mode. But let me relate a real-world, true story concerning a 2007 XK. This car was always and is always kept on the CTEK unit when not in use. For almost 8 years there were absolutely no electrical issues (in fact, no issues of any kind - a wonderful car). A few months ago the TPMS light started to come on intermittently. No other symptoms. Then one day at a fuel stop the car was reluctant to start. My diagnosis - despite the CTEK unit indicating a full charge - was that the battery needed to be replaced. I bought a new battery; I was assured by the clerk that the battery was fully charged. He then attempted to prove it to me by using a battery diagnostic unit. The report was that the battery was "good". Right. I knew that new batteries off the shelf are NEVER fully charged. I took the battery home and put it on the CTEK unit. It took 36 hours to bring the new and supposedly fully charged battery to full charge. Then and only then did I install it in the car. Result? no warning lights, no issues. This is why, despite your experience, I still suspect the battery. The battery in your car was likely manufactured 3 years or even more ago; the car has sat unused or worse, used only to move it extremely short distances. To say that this affects a battery significantly is an understatement. It is indeed possible that it may be a loose ground connection or something else, but this IS a new car which has sat unused for a very extended period. What I would do is to put in a new battery AFTER fully charging it. The cost of the battery is less than your very understandable frustration, and whatever the outcome, you would have a new, fully charged battery.

 

I agree. i have had this experience several times living here in the desert. The best I can get out of a battery is 3 years if I am lucky. 2 years seems to be the norm on any car I have owned for the past 30+ years..

 

I recently had the alternator fail while driving. I had to drive for another 15 miles to park safely. During that time I had all those warnings you have come up as the battery voltage decreased.

 

Occam's Razor applies: the simplest answer is likely to be the correct one ( a battery failure). Replacing modules (expensively) which is arguably one of the most complicated responses (another would be to tear the car apart looking for a fault in the wiring harness) has proven to be the wrong answer. Assuming that the ground connection in the trunk area is secure, the battery is the likely culprit - Malbec has just given the same scenario in different circumstances (an alternator which is not supplying a charge to the battery, and the battery in turn not supplying sufficient vloltage the various modules).

 

Thanks for all of the information. I agree it is the first point of correction and the easiest to fix. However, the dealer is refusing to supply a new battery because it is testing ok and bull headed that that is not the cause of the problem. He wants $700 to replace the battery. My next step is to remove the vehicle from the original dealership replace the battery myself and then to the other dealer in the area to scan and reset the coding or let it sit at the current dealer for another two weeks and pursue a replacement under our states lemon law.

 

The only reason to sync a new battery to the battery control module is if you want the ECO stop/start feature to work. Any any battery that fits with adequate cold cranking amps will work. At $500+ for a battery, you might as well get a Lithium battery that will last 5 times longer (and save 40-50lbs in weight).

 

I’ve had that issue twice, once it was the intercooler water pump and once it was a wheel speed sensor as well as the same pump. Yes, I am on my third auxiliary wanter pump at 43,000 miles.

Best of luck

 

Q
What issue are you referring to? I think your comment refers to a posting in another forum, no?

 

The wheel speed sensor was offered as a possible cause from another dealer but the dealer that is responsible for the car is not listeming to any of my suggestions. So after 50 plus days in the shop in 65 days of ownership, I have given up on them. I have contacted customer service to open a complaint.

 

What was the cause of all the problems you were having? My car is doing the exact same thing now and the dealer can't seem to find a solution. My battery was replaced and still no solution to what's causing these faults.

 

Sorry to say, I never found out. Since it was a new purchase Jaguar offered to buy/swap it out under Ohio's lemon law.