Is there a cam chain or tensioner problem with these cars? If so at what mileage?

 

None that I have ever heard of. The big recurring issue is the SC coupler going bad on the early models at any mileage.

 

I have my eye on a 2014 F Type with 33000km - Skipped one annual service but had it's 25000km service. In SA I can get it for equivalent of 20000.00 pounds. Should I pull the trigger?

 

Is the supercharger coupler an expensive problem?

 

It is the roadster - I see a similar car in UK for 29000.00 pounds

 

Best, ask at a local dealer or indie repair shop.

Dealers will quote expensive prices because they often totally remove the supercharger. But I think a knowledgeable repairer can just tilt the thing up in the front and R & R the coupling without disconnecting as much stuff.

 

I've been looking at an 2017/2018 F-Type R in the states for the last 6 months. Thing is, I move to Spain for 3 years in about a year. I know this is something I really want to do but I haven't found a good answer from Jaguar about warranty on them. I know the warranty will expire the second I leave the states, however, Spain Jag offers a 3 year extended warranty.

Are F types (specifically the years I'm looking at) okay enough to go for 3 years without a warranty on them if I cannot get the 3 year warranty over in Spain?

 

In my experience (4 Jags including current F-Type) repairs aren't that expensive if you find a decent independent you can trust. Most expensive part I've had to buy is the water pump on my 2010 XKR. Maybe others haven't been so fortunate, but I'd say in general the Jags I've had have been pretty reliable, certainly no worse than other cars I've had.

 

Might have something to do with your milages.. .. did you reach 10.000 already with the F-Type..

 

Not yet, 2300 to go. Lockdown means no miles on the car ...

 

Well, you probably have snow too now, like we had the last 10 days..

But I was actually joking. You make so few miles you never get to serious wear and repair..

 

My 2001 XK8 had over 60,000 miles on it when I bought it, my 2004 4.2 XKR getting on for 90,000 miles, and they were both also reliable. So Jags can do the miles without falling apart!

No snow down south here, we had a couple of days but that was several weeks ago now. Oop north - that's a different matter!

 

2019 delivered 28 Feb 2019, base manual V6. It's not a major issue, and I'm also under warranty for some time at 14,400 miles. Because they gave me this in lieu of the 2016 failing, it'll basically be a decade under Jag warranty. Yahoo! But the mechanics took my bad description of a slight scraping sound, which I thought was possibly a brake pad, but more worried it was some transmission issue because it sounded like it was coming from the dead center rear of the vehicle under the trunk. The sound is typically heard when moving from idle, and it's a slight light grind scrape for about 1 second. It is never continuous. Prior to my normal service, it had been happening relatively consistently for a month, but it wasn't something that put fear into me, like I could sorta think it away to some extent (knowing I had service coming up).

The mechanics said they'd experienced or know of this sound, and said it was likely a rear exhaust actuator valve getting stuck. They lubricated it, and I do believe it's totally gone. It's possible it's there and much less noticeable, and I am trying to isolate vs cognitive dissonance or tricking myself, etc.

But is this a known issue (like the mechanics state) in general or on this board? Is this issue problematic for the car when it happens? If it *is* still there, I'll push them to go beyond lubrication, but they did that as a favor as they personally couldn't reproduce the sound.

Just adding to the list, let me know your thoughts... if that's a good diagnosis, if it's a real "don't drive it" problem if it continues, etc? Thanks all!
(edit: top post here talks about it: https://www.ftypeforums.co.uk/viewto...=4907&start=20)

 

Oh yes. I installed a relay to defeat fuse F43, so if I get tired of the squeaking/grinding my valves make (or the buzzing of the vacuum pump), I just switch it off so the valves are open full-time. I thought they had improved the valves since the early days, when this wasn't uncommon. The solution used to be a new exhaust, as the valves are welded on, and the original ones aren't very lubricate-able.

 

My fuse 43 makes no difference but when I start the car the exhaust is noisy for 30 - 45 seconds. Is this an indicator the exhaust flaps are working? Not sure why the fuse out doesn't make a difference. I also tried pulling off the vacuum hoses when it is quiet but that made no difference. Switch inside appears to do nothing. Any ideas?

 

What year/model? Does it have active exhaust, or switchable active exhaust? Pulling fuse F43 should open the valves 100% of the time for the first two model years, I think (US '14-15), for cars with active exhaust installed.

 

2014 V6 base - Has active exhaust switch - Manual says fuse F43 is the one

 

I can't remember if it's the V6 or V8 muffler where you can see the valves if you look straight down the pipes. Fuse F43 kills the power to the electric vacuum pump (inboard of the left rear wheel), and probably the vacuum solenoid. Without them powered, the valves should be open 100% of the time. If not, the valves themselves may have seized, which has been reported before.

 

It is the V8 you can see the valves - Mine must be working because the car is loud at idle for 30 - 45 seconds after cold start

 

Had a similar issue with my new to me 2017 premium. Noticed that pass. side light/fender stuck out and gap between light assembly was wider than dr. side. Found I could push in light assembly and took a look inside fender well. There are 2 plugs in the upper well that cover access to the two fender bolts that hold the light assembly. A look in with exam mirror showed neither of the two bolts in place. Plus no "washer" scrape indicating any fastener had ever been there. Bought two fender bolts from dealer, had husband press in light assembly, and got the bolts in and tightened. That side now aligned. Gap between hood/ bonnet consistent with driver side.