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So I haven't had my car for approximately 30 days, as they diagnose my check engine light and fuel injection issue. I'll get all the codes that have been triggered, and update here. This is the fifth time it has been in for this issue. I'd still don't know what's going on, other than the car shaking violently whenever this issue happens. It seems to have begun after the O2 sensors were updated.
Their main shop mechanic, at my dealer who I trust and love and am patient as possible with, is working with global headquarters to diagnose the problem and they're doing it step-by-step. I'm at the point of not even feeling like I own the car anymore, though it is still under warranty. I sort of wonder if I should take this opportunity to have them buy it back at high Blue Book, and sell me a new car at cost. The issues started around 22000 miles, and I'm at 38000 now. Lemon law doesn't seem to apply. I do love my dealer and they are nothing but wonderful... They even wanted to take care of a couple payments, but I bought my car out right.
They are very very serious about working with me and making sure I'm happy. It doesn't hurt that I'm 41 years old, very patient, very happy and kind, and likely the type of customer they will want to keep loyal into my senior years. It's been fun to have pseudo car subscription service for my loaners, where I'm always driving some interesting and different car. I might end up buying an Evoque because of it.
I'm only laying this down in here, because I want to know if this is a problem that has occurred at all with anyone else, with the F-type. I prefer it to be a completely aberrant issue, isolated to me, because I would end up more patient because of it. But if anyone else has ever had this experience, I would like to know about it to see if that situation might inform my experience. It is something about the fuel mixture running too rich, cylinders misfiring, and what I think somebody told me on these forums is that fuels dumping into the catalytic converter, likely damaging it, and that's where the violent shaking comes into play. I'll get the codes if they make a difference, gentle readers, thank you.
Good morning Uncle Fishbits,
Thank you for your comment on the thread.
I am sorry to learn that you have experienced the concerns raised in your message.
Please could you kindly PM me your vehicle details, your address and contact details and the name of the approved retailer your vehicle is currently at to enable us to look into this further for you.
I'm posting this here because it's a potential safety issue. If you have jumper cables for the car, do not place them in the trunk as you won't be able to access them if the battery is dead. Instead, place them somewhere in the cabin (I put mine now in the driver side space behind the seat).
p.s. this thread could use a little cleanup as I noticed a lot of conversational posts which is not the intent of the thread (see the OP) and reduces usability. It's better to summarize the issue here, and link to a separate thread for conversations/follow up.
Will see if I can flag it for a tidy up.
Hear. Hear. Thanks. I read the whole thread. It would be nice if there was a list of SSMs, preferably referenceable by problem.
What a great thread Guys...Really helped me with some of my issues so, Thank you.
I had to pull away quickly a couple of days ago to avoid being hit by a speeding Range Rover...Manual F-Type registered September 2014 2016 M/Y My clutch slipped so badly that the smell is still lingering in the cabin now...Only done 20,000 miles.
What a great thread Guys...Really helped me with some of my issues so, Thank you.
I had to pull away quickly a couple of days ago to avoid being hit by a speeding Range Rover...Manual F-Type registered September 2014 2016 M/Y My clutch slipped so badly that the smell is still lingering in the cabin now...Only done 20,000 miles.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Cheers.
No adjustment. Has to be replaced. Only alternative to OEM parts is a high performance clutch kit and billet (single mass) flywheel from SPEC Clutch. The downside to that option is that setup has not yet been tested. The prototype is sitting in my garage waiting for my current clutch to fail. SPEC Clutches & Flywheels: Auto Parts, Domestic, Import, Truck, Racing, Drifting :: Home
Tried to do some searches for this latest issue I just discovered on my 2018 F-type R-Dynamic. The driver's side leather seat has separated from the base of the seat -- take a look at the pic. I didn't want to make the issue worse, but you can see from the pic that the actual seam has come loose from the base seat such that you can peel it back to see the foam inside. Nearly the entire side of the seat has come loose.
Has anyone else experienced this?
Clearly, I'm going back to the dealership to have this dealt with but is my ask for a repair or replacement of the whole seat?
Tried to do some searches for this latest issue I just discovered on my 2018 F-type R-Dynamic. The driver's side leather seat has separated from the base of the seat -- take a look at the pic. I didn't want to make the issue worse, but you can see from the pic that the actual seam has come loose from the base seat such that you can peel it back to see the foam inside. Nearly the entire side of the seat has come loose.
Has anyone else experienced this?
Clearly, I'm going back to the dealership to have this dealt with but is my ask for a repair or replacement of the whole seat?
In my experience and based on the JLR SOP of replacing rather than repairing for pretty much any warranty claim they will replace at least the top half of the seat if not the whole seat.
Tried to do some searches for this latest issue I just discovered on my 2018 F-type R-Dynamic. The driver's side leather seat has separated from the base of the seat -- take a look at the pic. I didn't want to make the issue worse, but you can see from the pic that the actual seam has come loose from the base seat such that you can peel it back to see the foam inside. Nearly the entire side of the seat has come loose.
Has anyone else experienced this?
Clearly, I'm going back to the dealership to have this dealt with but is my ask for a repair or replacement of the whole seat?
Good Morning bb_sam
Thank you for your post.I am deeply concerned to learn of your comments, and the image you have provided. Should you require any assistance please contact me via PM with the following information, and I will ensure your concerns are passed on to the relevant area of the business.Your Vehicle Identification NumberYour personal contact detailsDetails of the retailer in which you have had contactMany ThanksDan - Jaguar UK
Good Morning bb_sam
Thank you for your post.I am deeply concerned to learn of your comments, and the image you have provided. Should you require any assistance please contact me via PM with the following information, and I will ensure your concerns are passed on to the relevant area of the business.Your Vehicle Identification NumberYour personal contact detailsDetails of the retailer in which you have had contactMany ThanksDan - Jaguar UK
From what I can see in your picture, there is nothing damaged on your seat. These covers are held in place by a rubber pressure bead that is sewn into the cover. These beads fit into a channel in the frame. Yours just came out of it's channel. Most probably, it was not installed correctly in the first place.
Your dealer should be able to put it back in place in a short amount of time.
Tried to do some searches for this latest issue I just discovered on my 2018 F-type R-Dynamic. The driver's side leather seat has separated from the base of the seat -- take a look at the pic. I didn't want to make the issue worse, but you can see from the pic that the actual seam has come loose from the base seat such that you can peel it back to see the foam inside. Nearly the entire side of the seat has come loose.
Has anyone else experienced this?
Clearly, I'm going back to the dealership to have this dealt with but is my ask for a repair or replacement of the whole seat?
***UPDATE***
Turns out there was some kind of bracket inside the seat that sits high up on the right side which broke. My dealership had sent the car to a local car upholstery shop -- I ended up picking it up directly at this third party so I was able to chat with the guy who fixed it. He hadn't seen this issue with JLR before but he was able to take the part out, epoxy it back together and refit the seat. He seemed to be confident that it wouldn't break again but I suppose time will tell. It seems to look fine to me, so I'm happy.
Tried to do some searches for this latest issue I just discovered on my 2018 F-type R-Dynamic. The driver's side leather seat has separated from the base of the seat -- take a look at the pic. I didn't want to make the issue worse, but you can see from the pic that the actual seam has come loose from the base seat such that you can peel it back to see the foam inside. Nearly the entire side of the seat has come loose.
Has anyone else experienced this?
Clearly, I'm going back to the dealership to have this dealt with but is my ask for a repair or replacement of the whole seat?
Mine did that, took me about 15 minutes to push it back in, and hasn't come out since. Easier than booking it in to the dealer!
Dead thread, no answers, so posting here re: recent over the air software update:
I'm a 2019MY, and they did their first over the air update for software.
It fixed a problem in the touch screen menu ribbon, replacing the bluetooth icon (relatively useless) with climate control (there hadn't been a way to easily access the climate controls). But I notice that collision avoidance and blind spot awareness that included some minor autonomous actions is now unavailable. It isn't listed as a "red icon" emergency, but an orange "informative" menu item. It tells me at startup and throughout the ride.
I used them, and at times they didn't seem to work, and at times they would work aggressively, almost shockingly. But I liked it, all in all.
Any idea why these aren't working... is it a glitch, or is it a conscious choice by Jaguar?
It seems like every feature that is "informationally" (orange alert) is "not available" is part of autonomous aspects of the safety features:
it's possible one of these is a duplicate but at least these:
blind spot steering alert Autonomous Early Braking (AEB) Lane Keep Assist (LKA) Forward Alert
Don't wear a seatbelt and eco is turned off by default
Pretty easy to permanently shut off seatbelt chime too by fastening and unfastening seatbelt repetively till you hear a single chime confirming chime is now off. And same process if you want the chime back on again
Another is an aftermarket module I bought which allows you to drop or close the convt by the key fob and also allows you to program eco permanently off, the valves permanently open, 1 touch convt drop or close without having to hold the button the entire time on center console.... Costs around $500 and simple to install and remove as needed.
Originally Posted by Foosh
Not sure I understand your point. The C6 Z06 was only available with a 6-speed manual transmission complete with skip-shift. Your freedom to shift from 1st at low rpm was limited in the sense that it forced you into 4th. You defeated it by delaying your shift to around 3K, which was ironic from a fuel economy standpoint. But, by including it, they "fooled" the EPA testing process and gained a much better than real-world fuel economy rating.
You have the same full freedom in the F-Type with ZF automatic, as you will in your manual by driving it in manual mode, and as I said in a different post, there are 5 easy ways to never see eco-mode. How do you know there won't be some sort of fuel-saving feature (e.g. eco-mode, or skip-shift) on the manual F-Type? Jaguar is in trouble with their CAFE ratings.
Having three minor issues since I bought the car from the previous owner with around 15000 km on it.
1) When the spoiler goes active I usually start hearing a rattling sound from it, from the passenger side. Checked it - doesn’t seem to be loose.
2) When it’s not warm outside (around 5-10 C) and the center vents are inactive, there’s always a periodic clicking sound, similar to the one usually heard from cheap car plastic, until the vents (possibly) warm up a little, and then the sound stops. Happens every time. Afraid to imagine how it behaves in winter when it is -20
3) Probably it’s just me dumb and the following works as designed, but when I park at low speeds towards a wall, the front parktronic stays silent till I press the button, and sometimes after that it shows me that I am in the red zone already. Happens from time to time, there’s surely some pattern, but I can’t figure it out.
My Audi _always_ triggers it with no exceptions in such cases.
F-Type V6S 2017MY
Well I bought a hourly access to TSBs, found nothing about the above.
Having three minor issues since I bought the car from the previous owner with around 15000 km on it.
1) When the spoiler goes active I usually start hearing a rattling sound from it, from the passenger side. Checked it - doesn’t seem to be loose.
2) When it’s not warm outside (around 5-10 C) and the center vents are inactive, there’s always a periodic clicking sound, similar to the one usually heard from cheap car plastic, until the vents (possibly) warm up a little, and then the sound stops. Happens every time. Afraid to imagine how it behaves in winter when it is -20
3) Probably it’s just me dumb and the following works as designed, but when I park at low speeds towards a wall, the front parktronic stays silent till I press the button, and sometimes after that it shows me that I am in the red zone already. Happens from time to time, there’s surely some pattern, but I can’t figure it out.
My Audi _always_ triggers it with no exceptions in such cases.
F-Type V6S 2017MY
Well I bought a hourly access to TSBs, found nothing about the above.
Can't help with 1 and 2 but 3 is "as designed".
The front parking sensors don't operate unless or until you either press the P button on the console OR you put the car in reverse.
In my experience the red zone is around 45 cm or 1.5 feet from the front of the car and the "orange zone" (when it starts to beep) is about twice that far, so in peak hour stop/start traffic you could be setting off the annoying beeps all the time if it was "on" by default (not that I ever pull up that close to the car in front unless absolutely necessary!).
Pretty much every time I put my car in reverse my next action is to press the P button so as to turn off the annoying front sensors and their incessant beeping.
Your freedom to shift from 1st at low rpm was limited in the sense that it forced you into 4th. You defeated it by delaying your shift to around 3K, which was ironic from a fuel economy standpoint. But, by including it, they "fooled" the EPA testing process and gained a much better than real-world fuel economy rating.