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^Thank you, the only component covered by the 80k extended warranty Federal mandate is the cats and ECM per link below. I suspect O2 sensors as the culprit which are not covered.
^Thank you, the only component covered by the 80k extended warranty Federal mandate is the cats and ECM per link below. I suspect O2 sensors as the culprit which are not covered.
Bank efficiency is theoretically the cat going bad, but could be the O2 sensor(s). If you have an OBD 2 reader that shows live data, you can look at the downstream sensor to see if its dead or fluctuating out of limits. Since the sensing system is saying the cat is bad, Jag should at least diagnose it under warranty with the presumption of replacing the cat, then let you know if it was just a sensor. If a cat or two is bad you can still drive your car indefinitely while the parts come in.
If I had to guess, you'll get two new cats without pushback because its fed warranty work for the dealer they'd be happy to capture.
^Thank you, the only component covered by the 80k extended warranty Federal mandate is the cats and ECM per link below. I suspect O2 sensors as the culprit which are not covered.
In the pages you linked, it says "electronic engine control sensors
and switches" are covered (page 13).
That HAS to include O2 sensors, as a CEL will prevent emissions inspection compliance.
I think he meant only the cats and ECM have asterisks indicating 80,000 miles coverage. See last sentence on p 13. It looks like emissions compliance is only guanteed for 24 months by fed requirements but is also part of the Jag bumper to bumper for your MY
But Jag should still take care of it IMO since the car is calling the fault a bad cat. It says the cats are covered so its up to them to make a bad cat code go away. How they fix it is up to them.
RacerX you were right, bad catalytic converter. $2,400 part and labor, dealer is replacing only the bad one though.
The second cat may go bad soon, I’m at 69k miles hope it fails before 80k; unfortunately I couldn’t convince the dealer to replace both.
I’m now hesitant about installing the VAP tune and pulley which I purchased over Thanksgiving, I’m concerned if I go ahead with the upgrade, Jag may deny warranty should the second cat fail before 80k.
I know I can flash the car back to stock but Jag can tell as far as I know.
Did anyone check the STFTs and LTFTs? They usually indicate a lean condition as the PCM attempts to correct trims. DTCs P0420 and or P0430 are usually the eventual result of misfires that must be found and corrected to prevent further catalyst damage.
Under no circumstances is the vehicle to be operated under conditions that cause the MIL to flash as catalyst damage is occurring.
Could misfires be a consequence of using lower octane gas? 87 as opposed to 91 or higher? I was gone for a few weeks and the relative driving the car is not sure if they used 87, manual “recommends” 91 or higher but does not “requires” it, subtle difference between recommends and requires.
RacerX you were right, bad catalytic converter. $2,400 part and labor, dealer is replacing only the bad one though.
The second cat may fail soon so bitter sweet news, I’m at 69k miles so I hope to have the other one fail before reaching 80k; unfortunately I couldn’t convince the dealer to replace both.
I’m now hesitant about installing the VAP tune and pulley which I purchased over Thanksgiving, I’m concerned if I go ahead with the upgrade, Jag may deny warranty should the second cat fail before 80k.
I know I can flash the car back to stock but Jag can tell as far as I know.
They can tell if you flash the car. But the Jag warranty is already gone so they might not look or care. A few options you might consider.
Sell the new cat they give you and the used one on ebay and probably get enough to buy a set of two sport cats. VAP sells them.
Have a muffler shop splice-in Magaflow universals. They claim to add HP. You have to use a decent shop or the high heat could deterioate the welds over time.
If you don't live in an emissions state you could add a $15 spacer (ebay) to the down stream O2 senser to turn off the CEL permanently. But if the cat is breaking down inside the pipe your exaust note might get more straight-piped or over time, which could be good or bad. It could also rattle or buzz. You might already have loose platinum in there, check by tapping on it lightly with a mallet when cold and listen for any rattling.
You could do a cat delete plus O2 spacer. That would add noticeable power and change the sound for better or worse.
If you live in an emission state you could run a fuel additive for passing along with an O2 spacer. There is stuff at auto parts stores that guarantees a pass. I've never tried it.
Deleting the cats will give the exhaust an obnoxious raspy sound. With a supercharged engine, I have never seen a cat delete offer any significant power increase.
Did anyone check the STFTs and LTFTs? They usually indicate a lean condition as the PCM attempts to correct trims. DTCs P0420 and or P0430 are usually the eventual result of misfires that must be found and corrected to prevent further catalyst damage.
Under no circumstances is the vehicle to be operated under conditions that cause the MIL to flash as catalyst damage is occurring.
^^^^yes this! the cats rarely go bad unless they have been fouled or broken apart inside, usually a bad cat in my own experience with TDI is an injector starting to fail open. get a scanner on the live data and on your next long drive watch the fuel trims, i bet randomly one goes waaay lean to try and adjust for the rich condition caused from the injector starting to fail. it could also be a plug is not firing, a coil failing (but not setting a CEL) allowing un-burnt fuel to get to the cat. could also check o2 sensor 1, both banks for irregularities and rich conditions to confirm. if your cat is indeed failing, something cause it. mine went another 8k miles before the injector finally failed wide open hundreds of miles from home. find the cause sensor or cat and if cat find out why would be my suggestion.
Deleting the cats will give the exhaust an obnoxious raspy sound. With a supercharged engine, I have never seen a cat delete offer any significant power increase.
Thank you RacerX for your informative and well thought out options. VAP cats or Magnaflow universals did cross my mind but I've heard raspy sound complains about the VAP cats and I don't want to degrade the exotic V6 stock sound. As such the new cat will be installed next week, I've decided to just have the warranty done and hope the Bank 2 cat fails within the 80k miles (10K miles left).
Confession, I'm addicted to Pops and Crackles, I've mastered the fine art of inducing the pops but slightly tapping the throttle above 4k rpm, I can maintain the crackles for several seconds. Would the unburnt fuel shorten the cat lifespan and be the culprit of my early cat failure?
Thank you RacerX for your informative and well thought out options. VAP cats or Magnaflow universals did cross my mind but I've heard raspy sound complains about the VAP cats and I don't want to degrade the exotic V6 stock sound. As such the new cat will be installed next week, I've decided to just have the warranty done and hope the Bank 2 cat fails within the 80k miles (10K miles left).
Confession, I'm addicted to Pops and Crackles, I've mastered the fine art of inducing the pops but slightly tapping the throttle above 4k rpm, I can maintain the crackles for several seconds. Would the unburnt fuel shorten the cat lifespan and be the culprit of my early cat failure?
70K miles is only a little early. EPA bureaucrats say they should be designed to last 100K, so cats are a never ending battle pretty much by design. I share your question about pops and crackles impact, if any, on the cats. There are a number of things that kill cats pretty quickly, like rich unburned fuel and engine oils that contain a lot of zinc, or ZDDP additives designed to reduce engine wear in performance cars. https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/cla...ar-protection/
P0420 P0170 how to fix ?
lol
