? Paint issue
No, I have a coupe. While mine was in the shop, they loaned me a brand new coupe w/ 10 miles on it and it had the paint issue on both sides.
Final resolution was to replace the entire rocker panel with one taken off a brand new car that was just delivered.
Body shop re-painted mine twice. Both times, after repainting the entire rocker and several days of dry time, the rocker was re-mounted on the car and in the 100 ft drive from the shop floor to the customer pickup area, the paint re-flaked again in the same area.
Final resolution was to replace the entire rocker panel with one taken off a brand new car that was just delivered.
Final resolution was to replace the entire rocker panel with one taken off a brand new car that was just delivered.
Body shop re-painted mine twice. Both times, after repainting the entire rocker and several days of dry time, the rocker was re-mounted on the car and in the 100 ft drive from the shop floor to the customer pickup area, the paint re-flaked again in the same area.
Final resolution was to replace the entire rocker panel with one taken off a brand new car that was just delivered.
Final resolution was to replace the entire rocker panel with one taken off a brand new car that was just delivered.
A properly prepared and etched painted panel such as this should be able to withstand a fair amount of flexing in the hand without loss of adhesion and flaking....far more than any body flex when fitted. Sure you will get cars without this problem. They have obviously been painted properly.
It really sounds like jaguar have chosen the prowess of telling customers that the mighty torque of the car is the culprit instead of hit and miss workmanship.
I think "flexing" is the wrong term.
I haven't had the problem after 6K miles, but I think a more accurate term is "rubbing" due to normal road impacts. The joint between the lower plastic rocker panels and upper aluminum ones is extremely tight, and you can't even fit a piece of paper between them (just tried it). The identified JLR fix of a thin layer of foam in the joint between the two, is just a cushion against that rubbing.
I haven't had the problem after 6K miles, but I think a more accurate term is "rubbing" due to normal road impacts. The joint between the lower plastic rocker panels and upper aluminum ones is extremely tight, and you can't even fit a piece of paper between them (just tried it). The identified JLR fix of a thin layer of foam in the joint between the two, is just a cushion against that rubbing.
Hi Foosh , Rubbing on the edge of well adhered paint would wear the edge of the paint smooth to the point of exposing the primer had the panel edges been properly prepped for paint.
I see a lot of this kind of chip damage daily , both where panel has been poorly prepped from the factory or after market repair
I see a lot of this kind of chip damage daily , both where panel has been poorly prepped from the factory or after market repair
So what is the actual problem here?
I've read that in time gone by, adding a 'flex' additive to the paint on flexible (plastic, urethane) parts was required, but these days its not done so much because the drying/curing time for the paint is longer when the additive is used, and "its not needed any more" (but opinions seem to differ).
Would proper prep and use of a flex additive cure this problem?
I've read that in time gone by, adding a 'flex' additive to the paint on flexible (plastic, urethane) parts was required, but these days its not done so much because the drying/curing time for the paint is longer when the additive is used, and "its not needed any more" (but opinions seem to differ).
Would proper prep and use of a flex additive cure this problem?
So what is the actual problem here?
I've read that in time gone by, adding a 'flex' additive to the paint on flexible (plastic, urethane) parts was required, but these days its not done so much because the drying/curing time for the paint is longer when the additive is used, and "its not needed any more" (but opinions seem to differ).
Also, improper prep of plastic parts that have mold release agents on them will cause poor paint adhesion.
Would proper prep and use of a flex additive cure this problem? Is it the prep, or the flex?
After all, pretty much every car made these days has plastic/urethane bumpers or panels in contact with metal body parts, and the vast majority don't have this problem, which has been noted by several F-Type owners.
I've read that in time gone by, adding a 'flex' additive to the paint on flexible (plastic, urethane) parts was required, but these days its not done so much because the drying/curing time for the paint is longer when the additive is used, and "its not needed any more" (but opinions seem to differ).
Also, improper prep of plastic parts that have mold release agents on them will cause poor paint adhesion.
Would proper prep and use of a flex additive cure this problem? Is it the prep, or the flex?
After all, pretty much every car made these days has plastic/urethane bumpers or panels in contact with metal body parts, and the vast majority don't have this problem, which has been noted by several F-Type owners.
Last edited by mshedden; Feb 17, 2015 at 01:18 AM.
Hi Foosh , Rubbing on the edge of well adhered paint would wear the edge of the paint smooth to the point of exposing the primer had the panel edges been properly prepped for paint.
I see a lot of this kind of chip damage daily , both where panel has been poorly prepped from the factory or after market repair
I see a lot of this kind of chip damage daily , both where panel has been poorly prepped from the factory or after market repair

There is an excellent picture of that smooth wear on a black car above.
On the picture you posted of your IRR car in the OP, I saw 90+% rubbing, with a couple of visible chips in the same area near the rear wheel, which could have been impact damage. That's a common place to take a rock impact hurled from the front tire.
Last edited by Foosh; Feb 18, 2015 at 06:48 AM.
I'm afraid the picture from my phone really isn't high enough resolution to see properly, but that's really not the case, it was clear chipping and it was primarily inside the gap between the panels so unlikely to be caused by rocks.
I have the same issue on 2016 F type R Coupe which was built on July 2015. The paint is chipping on one side. I only had the car for two weeks and drove it 600 miles only. So apparently, Jaguar have not fixed this issue on newer builds.
I am going to take the car to the dealer this week to fix the issue. Should I suggest a touch up paint, as I do not want them to repaint the whole panel.
I am going to take the car to the dealer this week to fix the issue. Should I suggest a touch up paint, as I do not want them to repaint the whole panel.
I have the same issue on 2016 F type R Coupe which was built on July 2015. The paint is chipping on one side. I only had the car for two weeks and drove it 600 miles only. So apparently, Jaguar have not fixed this issue on newer builds.
I am going to take the car to the dealer this week to fix the issue. Should I suggest a touch up paint, as I do not want them to repaint the whole panel.
I am going to take the car to the dealer this week to fix the issue. Should I suggest a touch up paint, as I do not want them to repaint the whole panel.
Like the Meridian issue, this is one of those hard to understand variations between cars. My 14 shows no signs of this, and it clearly wasn't one of the cars with the "fix" implemented. I wonder if it has to do with manufacturing variability of that panel. Slight differences in size and/or mounting points could explain this.
Having just dome some paint work on a 24 year old car with similar plastic to metal joints (and no damage after 24 years) I would hazard a guess that the problem may be due to compression or sligh deformation of the plastic panel edges where the fasteners attach the pastic to the metal.
This could be due to bad design - fasteners too close to the outside edge of the panel, bolt head bearing surface too small, or similar. The foam fix probably 'spreads' the load over a wider area, reducing the pressure at any particular point. It may be that cars that don't exhibit the problem are just fortunate (perhaps the bolts were torqued less)?
This could be due to bad design - fasteners too close to the outside edge of the panel, bolt head bearing surface too small, or similar. The foam fix probably 'spreads' the load over a wider area, reducing the pressure at any particular point. It may be that cars that don't exhibit the problem are just fortunate (perhaps the bolts were torqued less)?
Having just dome some paint work on a 24 year old car with similar plastic to metal joints (and no damage after 24 years) I would hazard a guess that the problem may be due to compression or sligh deformation of the plastic panel edges where the fasteners attach the pastic to the metal.
This could be due to bad design - fasteners too close to the outside edge of the panel, bolt head bearing surface too small, or similar. The foam fix probably 'spreads' the load over a wider area, reducing the pressure at any particular point. It may be that cars that don't exhibit the problem are just fortunate (perhaps the bolts were torqued less)?
This could be due to bad design - fasteners too close to the outside edge of the panel, bolt head bearing surface too small, or similar. The foam fix probably 'spreads' the load over a wider area, reducing the pressure at any particular point. It may be that cars that don't exhibit the problem are just fortunate (perhaps the bolts were torqued less)?



