Finally installed these bad boys, I went with taller side wall on the rear and it has completely filled up the wheel well, haven't drove them extensively except the one mile trip home. Glad I didn't take it to the highway as I later found out all four are leaking air, ima check it later when the rain stops, most likely the new TPMSs are the culprit.

Loving the look on the rear so far, finger crossed they won't rub on the bumper/fender, clearance seems really really tight.

305/35/20 rear
255/35/20 front

 

Looks good Ray!

 

Thanks!


So after soap checking, air is leaking out from the mating surface between valve stem and the rim, not sure if the TPMSs are faulty or installation error. Hard to imagine all 4 corners were not done properly so im suspecting these cheap ebay TPMSs are bad.

I pumped them to over 30psi and they quickly flattened to around 10.


Now the dilemma, slowly drive it 10 miles with maybe 10psi to a shop or let it sit flat over the weekend...

 

Any rubbing on the rears? Or too early to tell? And that’s not lowered?

 

Did they lose that front center cap?
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Not my best day, mobile post glitched and lost all text Y_Y

So here's what happened, I test drove it around the block to see if I can make the 10 mile trip, but the leak was too fast and I don't think it was safe to even limp a mile or 2.

Ended up calling geico and having someone to swap my winter tires on and deal with the r888rs later, did not want the car to sit on completely flat tires over night.

5 stars to geico, dispatched help quickly but 0 star for the service guy who came.

He frigging jacked the car up from the middle!!!!!(area underneath the driver seat) while I was getting a lamp for him.

When I told him it is not a jacking point he told me it is completely fine and faster this way.

DUHHHHH, its always faster to break things than to do it properly.

I wasn't gonna start an argument so I told him he's responsible for any damage cause by improper jacking. All went smooth afterward.

This is not even mentioning he wasn't very happy when I told him 4 rims needed to be swapped on(I told geico about it), I mean cmon, it's 9pm, what's with the rush??

Now to be fair, wasn't a bad guy, just not what I'd call professional, he clearly knew how to do it properly but chose not to...

I later checked the area he jacked, doesn't look too bad, I will have a better look when the car is up in the air.




Now the TPMS I bought are these, they should be the right ones with 315MHz for my 2015, vin ending FMK18454
Though the original TPMS in the winter tires register after less than a mile of driving, the ones I bought never registered, hmm...

Too early to tell, I didn't hear/see any rubbing on the way home, but with the pressure dropped to under 20psi I did hear some rubbing, see attached pic, visual inspection suggests its only happening on the passenger side outer side, need more mileage with proper pressure to tell exactly.

It's lowered on VAP springs.




Rubbing mark visible, the pics are of the same tire.

Nope they are wrapped in tint so looks like they are missing in the front. Rear tinted ones aren't on yet.

 

I love my R888R's on the TR8 but it doesn't go out if there's even a chance of rain. Certainly not below 40 degrees.
What I didn't count on was having to store them inside so they wouldn't get below 15 degrees.
Wife wasn't happy to have a set of Revolution wheels/autocross tires sitting in the laundry room this winter.

 

Hey Ray Ray, back in the day you would have decked the goon

 

If he gave me any attitude he's definitely going down

Definitely not below 40 degrees, not sure how bad it is gonna be in the rain, can't be worse than snow(with winter tires) right?

Stack them up and call it a coffee table

 

Got the tires fixed, tire shop says the washer between valve and rim wasn't working, they replaced it with a rubber one.

So far so good, drove about 10 miles now, slight rubbing on compression on the rear, on the inner fender lip.


Tpms doesn't work, not sure if I got the wrong or bad ones. Any special procedure to "forget" the previous sensor and learn the new one?


Currently in the shop for a brake job, they will roll the fenders if time allows. Hopefully that's all is needed.

If it still rubs, I might have to put on the stock springs for the rear.

 

Rolling aluminum fenders is tricky. Cutting and sanding best, I also had to shave mine.

You felt any changes in handling? Considered before increase diameter but then chicken out but now seeing it i regret, looks great.

 

Shop says it's not an easy one so didn't get it done today, will go back another day to figure it out, I asked about cutting it but they said it's not a good idea, not sure why.

I will update when I get more mileage with these, you probably don't want to know how they perform in traffic 😂

 

Got about 50 miles mixed drive in, initial impression is simply amazing, amazing in every aspect.

Traction is tremendous, maybe 30% more throttle before it spins in first gear?

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Hasn't pushed it much in corners, probably need a track to explore the limit.

Ride is a huge surprise, easily the most comfortable experience I have had with this car, believe it or not, the ride has a luxury feel to it now, supple, compliant, and confidence inspiring. These are not what I'd expected to say about what are essentially track tires!!


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Now the fender, went to my body guy today, he says aluminium can't be rolled(too springy), can't be cut entirely(structural piece holding the shape), best action would be grinding away half of it.

But I'm not sure if a halfway grind is enough.

Is there any way to compress the rear suspensions fully to check how much it is rubbing?

 

I don’t have an answer to your question but is it worth all the trouble? Why not just get a size that doesn’t rub?

 

Sizes is limited for this particular tire, and I wanted to try a taller sidewall, my thought was it would help control the wheel spin in a dig or low speed send.

It also looks amazing having the wheel well almost completely filled without lowering to the ground.

Worst case scenario I will go back to the "right" size.

 

Nice, i was expected that results increasing footprint, when rear set wears out, I'll try 305/30 instead of 25.

About shaving, aluminum expert said rolled was possible but only if painting too, shaving, some whining that isn't easy because the double plate, this is how much on mine (way less than half mm stayed), only have pics from cutting but after was sanded perfectly, If you need better pics let me know.

 

Good to know it's double plated, that's probably what my guy was referring to as "there is something inside". I rubbed my finger inside and felt it. Hard to visualize without actually looking at it tho.

Please post more pics if you can find them, I will visit my race shop again and hopefully make an informed decision.

I'm guessing you're running 305/25/21? Did you have other mods that necessitates the fender adjustment?

 

Later today, will measure and take better pics.

Yes, they 21's, shaved to be ready for VAP springs and due the carbon brakes, custom wheel adaptor (17mm adaptor + smaller wheel offset) to allow clearance on spokes/ calipers and also the rotor hat have a smaller diameter.

 

variable 4 mm to 8mm, couldn't take better pics

 

Thanks these are perfect pics!! The stock lip measures about 18mm so I need to cut away 3/4 of that. Do you know if the double plates are parallel to each other, if so, just cut straight up both panels? are they welded at any point?

Careful with going 305/30/21, if they rub you pretty much have no recourse, maybe try a junk used tire before plunging for the real deal. Should be safe though, 28.2'' vs 28.4'' with my 20s.