Replacing Brake Calipers - ABS module?
I want to replace all 4 of my F-Type's calipers. The car came with them in silver, and I've been painting them red pretty much every year due to fade, peel, track/canyon days and crap, to the point there's several layers of paint on it. I already purchased all OEM powder coated red parts to replace them with, but the mechanic helping me with this endeavor said replacing the calipers could get very expensive, depending on whether the ABS module needs to be recalibrated. Is that a thing? I've never heard of this. Then again I never had to replace entire calipers before, so I don't know.
For what it's worth, I've replaced brake calipers on many different cars without any issue from the ABS system. I just replaced a rear caliper on my son's 2014 Nissan Pathfinder 3 weeks ago. Jag may be an entirely different animal in this case, so I'll happily wait for others to answer your question.
I replaced the rear calipers (upgraded from 326 mm to 376 mm) a few years ago now and did not need to do anything with the ABS or module.
As for bleeding the brake fluid I just did a simple "pedal bleed" and that did the trick.
One tip - you will need new brake line/caliper banjo bolt crush washers which may or may not come with the new calipers, or you can do what I did and reuse the old washers after filing the inside lips off them. I went this way coz at the time the only place I could get new crush washers from was the useless dealership and I eventually gave up on them.
As for bleeding the brake fluid I just did a simple "pedal bleed" and that did the trick.
One tip - you will need new brake line/caliper banjo bolt crush washers which may or may not come with the new calipers, or you can do what I did and reuse the old washers after filing the inside lips off them. I went this way coz at the time the only place I could get new crush washers from was the useless dealership and I eventually gave up on them.
I replaced the rear calipers (upgraded from 326 mm to 376 mm) a few years ago now and did not need to do anything with the ABS or module.
As for bleeding the brake fluid I just did a simple "pedal bleed" and that did the trick.
One tip - you will need new brake line/caliper banjo bolt crush washers which may or may not come with the new calipers, or you can do what I did and reuse the old washers after filing the inside lips off them. I went this way coz at the time the only place I could get new crush washers from was the useless dealership and I eventually gave up on them.
As for bleeding the brake fluid I just did a simple "pedal bleed" and that did the trick.
One tip - you will need new brake line/caliper banjo bolt crush washers which may or may not come with the new calipers, or you can do what I did and reuse the old washers after filing the inside lips off them. I went this way coz at the time the only place I could get new crush washers from was the useless dealership and I eventually gave up on them.
I am planning to do same to my XJ. Already got the big brakes from a 5.0 V8 (mine is a V6 AWD). So I can simply start with rear calipers (+rotors and pads) and maybe run one year like this with no issues, before from brakes will come in? Or I need to do front and back. I understand it is a direct swap, no coding to be needed. I expect the same behavior for XJ like for F-Type while they use same brake platform like many others from same era.
Yes, direct swap both ends with no need for any coding.
But with the rears make sure you have disengaged the parking brake / hand brake (ie turned it off) before you start work on the brakes.
The parking brake I guess would be same procedure like for regular rotors and pads service. I will do this with help of a guy who has a repair garage and expect for his handy skills but better to know as much details as possible.
I've seen these brakes are having a cable for handbrake use instead of a direct attached motor to the caliper. Anyhow, I guess I can do this with the Autel AP200 or this guy tools or eventually will take the laptop with SDD with me.
Thanks for confirming. I didn't want to do both rear and front because for fronts the rotors are in good shape and already have one more set from previews XF I had (exactly same 355 rotors with current XJ calipers). I also have a fresh pads pair for original calipers. And while driving less than 10.000 per year, the fronts probably will do who knows when.
I've seen these brakes are having a cable for handbrake use instead of a direct attached motor to the caliper. Anyhow, I guess I can do this with the Autel AP200 or this guy tools or eventually will take the laptop with SDD with me.
Thanks for confirming. I didn't want to do both rear and front because for fronts the rotors are in good shape and already have one more set from previews XF I had (exactly same 355 rotors with current XJ calipers). I also have a fresh pads pair for original calipers. And while driving less than 10.000 per year, the fronts probably will do who knows when.
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If you are talking to me then no point postings pics as the F-Type 376 mm rear brake calipers are barely any bigger at all than the 326 mm calipers, maybe one or two mm "taller" at most, so they don't look any bigger/better at all. The difference is entirely in the diameter of the disc/rotor and even then 95% of that is in the outer 2/3 only as they still have a large central unswept/void area.
And I haven't yet installed.
To be honest, from my MTB experience, bigger caliper or more piston doesn't necessarily means better brakes like better modulation or stopping power.
Brake pads and rotors would make a better change at same size.
Also, bigger rotors will help mostly for heat dissipation for frequent powerful brakes one after another in a long series, like on track, and modulation.
But I agree, bigger brakes like BMW is using, looks better
To be honest, from my MTB experience, bigger caliper or more piston doesn't necessarily means better brakes like better modulation or stopping power.
Brake pads and rotors would make a better change at same size.
Also, bigger rotors will help mostly for heat dissipation for frequent powerful brakes one after another in a long series, like on track, and modulation.
But I agree, bigger brakes like BMW is using, looks better
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