To my fellow members, I need your help. Unfortunately I sustained scratches on my spoiler when my garage door came down as I was backing out. My 63 E type painter looked and said too deep to buff out. For now I’ll have my very good detailer buff the spoiler when he derails my car. I’ll have my painter respray my spoiler during the winter months. So now the help needed, does anyone have the diagram/schematic of all the parts to disassemble the spoiler. Can I remove just the top skin from the movable bottom spoiler? Your help is greatly appreciated. Ok I know you want to know how this happened. I opened the garage door and started the jag, beautiful noise for sure but I must have inadvertently hit my remote and the door was closing, never heard it. I’m somewhat suspicious when going on a long trip and don’t like to take the car out the night before but it was our club ice cream night and I had to get gas anyway SOOO there you go. Thank you in advance for your help. Cheers Frank

 

As I recall, it's pretty simple but requires special "pentalobe" bits. They look like Torx but as the name indicates have five lobes instead of six.

Raise the spoiler to cleaning position and underneath you'll see a plastic cap on each side. Pop those out and I think it exposes the screws. I'd go check on mine, but it's in storage because I installed the fixed "Sport Design" one.

 

I believe mine was attached with Torx T-30 screws

 

@frank barone There is no need to remove the complete rear wing assembly including actuator and rods if you only want to paint the body coloured 'wing'. The wing is bolted to the top of the two hinge brackets with 4 torx bolts. Simply pop off the plastic covers and undo the 4 screws to release the 'wing'. The tricky part is refitting and aligning the wing. See the fantastic DIY spolier guide compliled by TheRock88 @Therock88 for more details and lots of useful pictures.

See also write up from owner on the UK F-Type forum --> How to remove deployable spoiler

You only need the Star Plus Security 5-Sided Bits to remove the 11 screws that mount the complete actuator and rod assembly in the boot lid, i.e. conversion to fixed wing.

 

Thank you I should have added photos and or videos would be very helpful. Can I remove the painted skin alone or do I have to remove the entire spoiler. Just curious my painter thought their might be two pieces to the spoiler. Cheers Frank

 

@frank barone Spoiler comes as a single piece, no separate 'skin'.

 

Let's see a picture of the damage.



I know from experience that 'deep' scratches can be made almost invisible with several applications of a good touch up paint. The secret is to apply SEVERAL (many?) coats of paint until the repair is 'proud' (higher) of the surrounding surface. Then, using a small sanding block with fine-grit paper, sand it smooth, then polish.

With today's clear/base coats, another tip is to mix the color paint with the clear in a small condiment cup, and apply the mixture. That way you end up with the proper shine.

 

Thanks to everyone for taking time to send me the information I requested. Genp729 your diagram is very informative.
question for everyone: 3 are the washers, when removing the bolts do the washers stay in place and how do you adjust them. By removing these bolts you can then remove the spoiler
item 4: what is their purpose and are they adjustable
I’ll send photos
cheers Frank

 

Ugh… sorry for your luck.

 

@frank barone When you remove the four torx screws the spoiler lifts off and the floating washers and securing nuts (item 4) remain clipped into the underside of the 'wing'.

You can unclip them to see how they adjust, a combination of interference fit around the Torx screw and pressure from above the spoiler when tightening back up again.

The hyperlink to the UK Form post contains a guide on how to adjust for height and panel alignment :

Quote "If you manually raise the spoiler you can see 2 plastic oval covers at each hinge/bracket that raises the spoiler. These plastic covers push on and pull off. When removed you can see 2 Torx bolts under each cover. If these 4 bolts are removed the spoiler can be removed. But BEWARE once the bolts are loosened the spoiler alignment will be lost (panel gaps and height). When bolted back up again the alignment has to be reset, which can be frustrating. Each bolt passes through an adjustable spacer washer (for height, to allow alignment with surrounding panels). When the bolt is pushed through the washer you can feel it is an interference fit which allows for height adjustment when washer is loose ie: is not "clamped" on both sides (screw bolt one way and the washer gets thicker and screw the other way and washer gets thinner). When height is correct place hand on top of spoiler and push down to keep spacer washer pushed against the hinge/bracket (this friction will stop the adjustable washer from turning which would alter the height) then "nip up the torx bolt. Once bolt "nipped up the washer height will not alter. Once all 4 bolts have been adjusted for height and the panel gaps (panel gaps adjusted by sliding left/right and forward/backward when bolts are just slightly nipped up) are correct finally tighten. Just for info the adjustable spacer washers are made in 2 halves, threaded together (you cannot separate the two halves completely by mistake), the washer is clipped onto the spoiler by a plastic clip built into the top half of the washer preventing the top half from turning when adjusting. The correct way to adjust the spoiler is with the tailgate open and the spoiler in the closed position as it easier to align the height with the surrounding panels, but you will need to remove the plastic drainage grills (2) under spoiler (can be seen when tailgate is opened) to gain access to the 4 torx bolts when spoiler is in the closed position.
I was not happy with the height of my spoiler ( looked to low at one end when closed) so i adjusted it by "trial and error" with just the spoiler manually raised (and ignition turned off after) to gain access to the 4 torx bolts. It was a frustrating process because you have to keep lowering the spoiler to see what effect the adjustment was making, but i did get it correct in the end. I did not want to remove the plastic drainage grills in case of damage to the grills or paintwork, it looked awkward to remove without damage. Also i bought 1 adjustable washer (about £7) from jaguar to understand how it works. Hope this helps and you can understand my explanation, not easy to explain".

The two drainage grills referred to in the guide are illustrated on page 5 of Therock88's DIY spoiler guide.

 

BTW, thanks for the picture. Yeah, that is a LOT of damage.

Don't you have a rubber seal on the bottom of your garage door?

 

Thank you genp729 again for your write up and detailed explanation on removing and adjusting the spoiler. It’s very much appreciated. My detailer will try and buff the scratches when he applies ceramic coating so they can become less noticeable and in the end my painter will respray my spoiler during the winter. Removing the spoiler and leaving it with my painter to do his work will save him space. The rubber buttons with screw driver slots on the side of the adjusting screws, are they adjustable and bump stops? To inquiring minds I do have a rubber seal on the garage door and obviously dirty. To all the forum members THANK YOU, the knowledge and experiences you’ve shared are invaluable to us all. Cheers Frank

 

@frank barone Yes, the four outer slotted buttons are bump stops, mainly to prevent vibration of the spoiler at speed. There is limited adjustment, perhaps 1 - 2 turns. The 'wing' panel height should be adjusted using the four Torx mounting bolts as this provides a much greater range of adjustment.

 

Thank you genp729 for your quick response. That’s what I was thinking but I wanted to see an expert explain the function. Again thank you for the diagram and detailed instructions. It makes removing the spoiler easy. Have a wonderful weekend we here in the Hudson Valley are in a heat wave 90-103 degrees. Cheers Frank